FeatureSeiko’s Presage Collection: Bringing To Life Japan’s Artistic Legacy

The ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ has always been a disrupter. Whether you consider their elaborate one-of-a-kind tea ceremonies, their beautifully sculpted gardens that make for breathtaking visuals, or their path-breaking technology. Yes, Japan has always been a forerunner in technical fields, with inventions such as the world’s first camera phone in 1999 or for that instance, the first compact disc player released by Sony in 1982. And, it would be rather strange if the oriental land didn’t find a mention when it comes to watchmaking. Popularly known as the harbinger of the ‘quartz crisis’ of the 1970s; Japan was a key player in taking on the Swiss high-end mechanicals, which had monopolised the watchmaking segment, with a certain snob value attached to their timepieces. Seiko—the company that’s credited with heralding this revolution, first came into the global limelight when it introduced the Astron—the world’s first quartz wristwatch. Cheaper production costs, higher volumes and improved precision—this cocktail was potent enough to jolt mechanical watchmakers out of their comfort zone. And, the rest is history.

The Seiko Presage Collection is an amalgamation of superior mechanical watchmaking, ancient Japanese artistic skills and a no-compromise policy on quality

But before one relegates Seiko to a company that’s merely associated with cheap, mass-produced quartz watches; let’s give credit where it’s due. In fact, even today, not many people know that the brand have been making mechanical wristwatches since 1913, longer than most existing Swiss players. However, the company’s operations took a severe blow during World War II and it wasn’t until 1954 that it regained momentum by producing 1,00,000 watches per month. It was then that the company upped the ante and went full-throttle to polish its mechanical watchmaking skills. This resulted in one of Japan’s most ambitious projects—Grand Seiko—the most precise mechanical watch in the world, launched in 1960. This breakthrough came when the company designed an automatic movement equipped with Seiko’s Magic Lever—a device that increases the transfer of power to the mainspring, thereby increasing accuracy of a watch. While Seiko kept innovating over a century; in 2016 they finally merged their technical watchmaking prowess and mastery over traditional Japanese artistic crafts such as enamelling and lacquering to launch a spanking-new, all-mechanical collection named Presage. This was showcased at that edition of Baselworld, with the spotlight on two limited-edition chronographs with enamel and Urushi lacquer dials, each limited to 1,000 pieces only.

The Seiko Presage Cocktail series is inspired by some good, old-fashioned cocktails that are timeless and are bound to make you happy; much like the watches in the collection

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Mockingbird is an automatic watch with a manual-winding mechanism that allows the watch to function for at least 41 hours

Seiko Presage Explore the Collection

The new Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series is a powerful and fresh expression of Japanese artistry that uses a sharply-edged geometric pattern on the dial to create a subtle colour gradation

₹77,000

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The watch case has a super-hard coating that not only protects the case and bracelet from scratches but also endows it with a long-lasting sheen

₹77,000

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The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series case and bracelet incorporate many flat surfaces that allow the watch to shine and sparkle from every angle

₹77,000

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Presage: The Origins

If you were to follow discussions on watch forums, then there’s a certain ambiguity regarding how Seiko zeroed in on this name for a collection that exudes ultimate sophistication. While the Oxford dictionary defines presage as ‘a warning or sign that something will happen, usually something unpleasant’; I am sure the company had other plans while they decided to opt for this name. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that the collection is highly premium and commands a certain prestige in the watchmaking industry. And, yes, it was an inevitable move for Seiko to combine two spheres that they ace. The collection draws its inspiration from the brand’s heritage in mechanical watchmaking, which harks back to 1913, when the company launched Laurel—Seiko’s first wristwatch, and also the first to be made in Japan.

This heritage was celebrated in 2016 by launching two limited-edition timepieces in enamel and lacquer dials. This was also the year when Seiko marked 60 years of automatic watchmaking. Both chronographs use the 8R48 calibre, which has a vertical clutch and column wheel systems, and incorporates Seiko’s unique three-pointed hammer to ensure perfect synchronisation of the flyback function. There is also a gold rotor on the movement, which is visible through the caseback. Such is the level of perfection that the sapphire crystal glass is dual-curved so that even the ridge of the dial is visible without distortion from any angle. The hour markers are painted no fewer than 10 times to lift them in relief from the dial. The tips of the hands are curved to follow the contours of the glass so that the case depth is minimised.

The Seiko Presage Japanese Garden line is inspired by elements such as trees, lakes and vibrant flowers found in abundance in Japan's beautifully landscaped gardens

The Evergreen Enamel Elegance

A highly complex artistic technique, enamelling is an age-old craft that has been practised across different cultures and continents. A simple dial can take about five hours, whereas the complex ones take at least 60 hours to be ready. From ancient Egypt to modern-day Japan, it is known for its beauty, strength and versatility. Enamelling involves fusing powdered glass to a base on which it is readied. The coloured powder is heated between 750 and 850°C, at which point it melts and can be applied to metal or other compatible surfaces. As it begins to cool down, the substance acquires a glossy finish. In the 19th century, manufacturers began using enamel to coat consumer products, such as bathtubs, cookware and countertops. Featuring a coating that’s a mere 0.1mm thick, the enamel dials pay tribute to the Seiko Laurel from 1913, which also had an enamel face. The beauty of this craft is that no matter how many years pass, its whiteness will not fade. Such is the timeless appeal of enamel! All Seiko enamel dials are crafted by skilled artisans, led by Mitsuru Yokozawa who ensures that the colour of the enamel will last for decades. The most challenging aspect of creating enamel dials is the role of climatic factors such as humidity, and also getting control over the thickness of the coating. That’s another reason why two enamel dials are never the same since they are entirely handmade.

Seiko Presage

₹90,000

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A Splash Of Lustrous Lacquer

Another ancient artistic skill that’s used to create the beautiful dials of Presage watches is Urushi lacquer. It’s what sets them apart with a rich lustrous feel and is an important element of the Japanese art of lacquer work. The technique uses several layers of wafer-thin, semi-transparent lacquer to create an enigmatic surface with great depth. It takes about two-and-a-half months to produce each Urushi lacquer dial, and the work is carried out in the studio of master craftsman Isshu Tamura in Kanazawa, on the western side of Honshu, Japan’s main island. The material is obtained from the sap of the lacquer tree, which is a native of south-east Asia. It is a clear liquid and any excess water is allowed to evaporate. It can be applied to various surfaces, and under ideal circumstances it sets at high humidity of 75 to 80 per cent, and a temperature of 24°C. The lacquer gets stronger over the years. The dials are painstakingly painted and polished by hand several times. It is a time-consuming and challenging process, but it is the traditional and best way to create the perfect black colour.

Seiko Presage

₹2,10,000

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A Timepiece For The Discerning Collector

With its timeless elegance, the Presage collection appeals to people across age groups, genders, and even style preferences. There is something for everyone here. While the collection is inspired by Japan’s traditions, it is designed in to suit the contemporary consumer’s tastes. Long-lasting beauty and performance are what you get when you choose a Presage timepiece. The series comprises 60 models, covering the full range of Seiko’s mechanical calibres, from the accessible 4R, through 6R to the exclusive 8R. Highlights include the 6R27 multi-hand power reserve model, and a series using an entirely new version of the 4R57 calibre. This new movement is Seiko’s first ever with a central power reserve indicator, and is available in a series of five designs, including a limited edition. Each Presage watch is water-resistant to 100m, and is built to last for generations.

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Negroni stands out for its deep red dial, where the pattern is delicately embossed for a perfectly-finished gradient surface

The Arabic numerals are in the image of a vintage bottle’s label and projects on the dial. Its 38.5mm diameter ensures a perfect fit on the wrist, and enhances the vintage look

Seiko Presage

₹39,500

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In 2017, Seiko made the enamel dial Presage watches a permanent line within their repertoire, since they exemplify the brand’s tryst with fine watchmaking and superior Japanese craftsmanship. There are also other offshoots of the collection such as the Cocktail, the Japanese Garden and the more recent Sharp Edged Series watches, which are a mix of classic, colourful and natty designs.

The Seiko Sharp Edged series watch with a green dial is inspired by the lushness of evergreen trees. It is powered by calibre 6R35, which delivers a power reserve of 70 hours

The Sharp Edged Series watches are a mix of classic, colourful and natty designs with cleaner and sharper lines for perfect geometric symmetry

Seiko Presage

₹77,000

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The Seiko Presage Japanese Garden timepiece has a minimalistic dial with a rich texture, inspired by the gravel furrows following a wave-like pattern found in Japan's rock gardens

₹45,000

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The model features an open heart that allows one to admire the workings of this mechanism, akin to a circular window outside Japanese gardens that provides a fixed viewpoint

₹45,000

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The Presage Japanese Garden watches are fitted with an automatic calibre that supplies a power reserve of 41 hours. It also has a stop-seconds function

₹45,000

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The stainless steel case measures 38.3mm, which sits comfortably on the wearer's wrist, and is presented on a brown leather strap with a folding clasp

₹45,000

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The Presage watches represent Seiko’s unique style of watchmaking. Fusing high-end movements with exquisite craftsmanship, and catering to connoisseurs who understand and respect the art of fine watchmaking, is what the brand does best. With a competitive price-to-quality ratio and zero tolerance for any deviations when it comes to precision timekeeping; for Presage, only perfection will do!