FeatureCase In Point: A Guide To The Evolution Of Cushion-Shaped Cases
A square case with curved sides and soft corners, often resembling a pillow or cushion is referred to as a cushion-shaped case. While the 1940s' Panerai Radiomir is considered one of the earliest watches to feature a cushion case, this unique shape has evolved over the decades, gradually moving beyond its traditional definition. Here’s a broad timeline of cushion-shaped cases and the players that are revamping the trend
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When one imagines a timepiece, a round case, with or without a bezel, surrounding a dial with Roman or Arabic numerals comes to mind. Throughout history, the classic and timeless round case, symbolising the continuous and cyclical nature of time, has remained the shape of choice for watchmakers and horophiles alike. But, with the advent of the 1920s Art Deco movement, the refined round case gave way to more structured square and rectangular cases, bringing the world of design and architecture to people’s wrists. In the following years, the watchmaking industry saw the onset of unusual case shapes such as oval and tonneau, challenging the status quo. One such unique shape that rose to prominence during the mid-20th century is the cushion-shaped case. Essentially a square case with curved sides and smoothened or soft corners, often resembling a pillow or cushion, the cushion case gained popularity for its ergonomic and versatile appeal. In fact, according to statistics, in the early 1970s, the cushion case controlled a market share of almost about 25 percent, clearly spearheading an alternative to the traditional round case.

Historically favoured for dress, sport (largely divers), or military use, a cushion case can be seen on a variety of timepieces today. Here’s an overview of the evolution of cushion-shaped cases and the key players driving the trend.
The Humble Beginnings Of Cushion Cases: 1900 – 1950
The early to mid-20th century saw the emergence of the cushion case (a rotund square shape), pioneered by luxury watchmaking brands such as Rolex, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe. But, it’s the Italian brand with Swiss production, Panerai who are regarded as quintessential in popularising the ‘squircle’ (a blend of square and circle) case, with the introduction of the Radiomir Reference 3646. Launched in the 1940s, the original Radiomir was built on a special commission from the Italian Royal Navy, during World War II. It featured a large cushion-shaped steel case measuring 47mm, along with luminescent numerals and indexes, filled with ‘radium-based’ powder—hence the name Radiomir. Interestingly, the case and movement for this reference were supplied to Panerai by Swiss watchmakers Rolex, sparking a debate among horologists about the true forerunners of cushion case. The modern Radiomirs still retain some of the prominent design elements of their predecessors, while the Italian casa have extended the cushion case to other collections, such as the Luminor, Luminor Due, and Submersible. Today, the cushion case has become one of the iconic design features of Panerai, especially since they don’t have any other shape.
Other notable examples of watches featuring cushion-shaped cases are the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 with an angled dial and Patek Philippe’s 1928 mono-pusher chronograph in white gold. According to online sources, it was auctioned in 1931 by Christie’s for approximately INR 2.99 crore (USD 3.6 million).
Shapeshifting: 1951 – 2000
Around this period, the cushion case became larger and more elongated, often featuring integrated lugs, with brands such as Favre Leuba and Doxa finding favour. In 1960, Swiss watchmakers Favre Leuba launched their first dive watch, the Water Deep, featuring a distinct cushion case. This timepiece became a stepping stone for the brand’s success in the dive watch category. Eight years later, they launched the Bathy—the world’s first mechanical wristwatch that not only displayed dive time, but also current diving depth—in a more elongated and rectangular cushion case. While the Swiss brand changed ownership multiple times after the quartz crisis, 2014 saw their revival with the introduction of the Raider in a pillow-shaped case, measuring between 41mm to 48mm. Following their relaunch at Geneva Watch Days 2024, the cushion case retained its place in their Chief Chronograph and Date models—a reiterated version of the 1970s design—in stainless steel, measuring 40mm or 41mm, further reinforcing Favre Leuba’s design identity in cushion cases.
Read more about Favre Leuba’s cushion case legacy here

Another example is of Swiss watchmakers, Doxa, who are known for their diving watches featuring sturdy, flat cushion cases with clipped lugs, under the Sub collection. Launched in 1967, the Sub 300, with a cushion-shaped case, was their first accessible dive watch for the budding community of sport divers. Developed in collaboration with the legendary aquanaut Jacques-Yves Cousteau, the original Sub brought forth radical innovations, setting a new standard for both military and professional divers. Water-resistant to 300m, it was the first to feature a unidirectional bezel with a dual scale for depth and dive time to calculate a safe ascent without decompression stops. Also, the easily-distinguishable orange dial greatly improved readability underwater. As a nod to their heritage, today’s Sub 300 watches are topped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective treatment. They feature the same domed shape as the plexiglass on the 1967 original. Additionally, all dive-related markings feature a Super-LumiNova luminescent coating to ensure excellent readability in low-visibility conditions.

The Modern Custodians Of The Cushion Case: 2001 to present
One of the new-age brands to carry forward the legacy of vintage-inspired ‘squircle’ cases are independent Swiss watchmakers, Laurent Ferrier. In 2015, they introduced the Square collection, featuring a 41mm pillow-shaped case, reminiscent of the good ol’ days of the mid-20th century. Interestingly, it was the first Laurent Ferrier watch in a series, to be crafted in stainless steel. With their aerodynamic curves, symmetry, and elaborate lines, the Squares exude sophistication, while also offering an assertive presence on the wrist.
Read more about Laurent Ferrier here

On the other hand, the Terra Nova collection by British watchmakers, Bremont features a more angular cushion case with tapered lugs, crafted from durable 904L stainless steel. Released during Watches and Wonders 2024, it draws inspiration from the rugged and functional aesthetic of early 20th-century military pocket watches. Measuring between 38mm to 42.5mm, in a range of dial hues, the collection offers something for everyone. It features anti-reflective sapphire crystal and full-block Super-LumiNova numerals for superior low-light visibility, making it a perfect field watch built for the demands of everyday adventures.

Some of the other noteworthy collections that are also presented in a cushion case are the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster, and the Alpina Alpiner, to name a few.
While the cushion case might not be everyone’s cup of tea, it certainly enjoys the favour of a niche audience with a discerning taste. Love it or hate it, but you can’t ignore the cushion case—it’s here to stay, and with a commanding presence at that.