ReviewH. Moser & Cie.’s Fumé Dials Are Aging Like Fine ‘Burgundy’ Wine: As Seen In The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

Independent Swiss watchmakers, H. Moser & Cie. can easily be touted as the masters of minimalist brilliance. Clean aesthetics and the ingenious execution of intricate complications, with more emphasis on the craft than the brand name are just some of the hallmarks of the maison. With less than 4,000 timepieces produced each year, their watches are a true testament to intricate craftsmanship and centuries-old tradition. Since their inception, they have not only manufactured movement parts such as escapements and balance springs, but have also developed 18 in-house calibres. In addition, they have collaborated with one of the world’s 60 spring-masters, Stephan Christ, who also heads hairspring production at the brand, further cementing their reputation as one of the finest in the industry. Carrying forward their legacy, they have now introduced the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy, featuring a beautiful burgundy fumé dial. Here’s more.

The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy: From Wetsuit To Power Suit

Housed in a compact 40mm case made entirely of 5N red gold, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy offers the elegance and complexity of a haute horlogerie timepiece, while boasting the robustness of a sports watch. Its multi-contoured case is decorated with various finishes: the surface on the top and caseback feature brushed finishing, while the bezel and case sides are immaculately polished. It also showcases an intricate pattern of vertical lines on case sides and lugs, thus adding more character to the watch. While the 120m water resistance makes it ideal for water escapades, its refined aesthetic seamlessly transitions from office hours to evening wear, making the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy truly versatile.

The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is housed in a compact 40mm case made entirely of 5N red gold

With this launch, the maison also introduced their next-generation automatic tourbillon movement—the all-new calibre HMC 805

The Tourbillon Burgundy’s Fumé Dial: As Exquisite As A Rare French Wine

The face of this watch features a stunning burgundy fumé dial, with a gradual gradation to black towards the periphery, creating a rather striking contrast. The burgundy fumé dial was debuted in 2021 with the Heritage Dual Time in steel. While it was highly appreciated, the new edition’s gold case paired with the burgundy dial elevates its sophisticated look even further. Its dial displays an even sunburst pattern that adds depth and opulence to the watch. Additionally, the logo is applied in transparent lacquer—visible at certain angles only—imparting the watch with an ‘old money’ charm. It also showcases faceted applied red gold indices topped with Super-LumiNova dots on the rehaut, and partially skeletonised leaf-shaped hands filled with lume for excellent visibility in low-light conditions. Finally, what makes this dial even more special is the large aperture at six o’clock—wider than before—offering an uninterrupted view of the one-minute flying tourbillon, held together by skeletonised bridges.

It is presented on a contrasting khaki green rubber perforated strap

₹66,00,000

Check Our Selling Price

The face of this watch features a stunning burgundy fumé dial, with a gradual gradation to black towards the periphery, creating a rather striking contrast

₹66,00,000

Check Our Selling Price

It also showcases an intricate pattern of vertical lines on case sides and lugs, thus adding more character to the watch

₹66,00,000

Check Our Selling Price

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The HMC 805 Movement: Ticking The Gravity Away

With this launch, the maison have also introduced their next-generation automatic tourbillon movement—the all-new calibre HMC 805. Successor of the revered calibre HMC 804—powering the previous editions of the 40mm and 42.8mm Pioneer Tourbillon—it is equipped with the patented double hairspring to literally defy the effect of gravity and eliminate any positional errors. Visible through the domed sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, the updated calibre features partially skeletonised bridges, revealing more of the gear train and bi-directional pawl winding system, where tiny components move in complete synchronisation to create a beautiful ballad of micro-mechanics. The 18-karat red gold rotor is further skeletonised and edges have been beveled to ensure an unobstructed view. Meanwhile, the rest of the new calibre features a sleek anthracite grey tone with H. Moser’s signature double Geneva stripes, adding a contemporary touch. It provides an impressive power reserve of up to three days.

With every new launch, H. Moser & Cie. continue to push the boundaries of haute horlogerie. The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is yet another example of creating a perfect balance between elegance and performance.