ReviewReinventing The Retrograde Wheel: Presenting The Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit Watch

The Louis Moinet Tempograph watch with a 20-second retrograde display has been around for more than a decade. And yet, today, over 10 years later, the watch is still just as relevant, for the brand have reinvented the timepiece time and again, upgrading its design to appeal to a new audience. And why would a decade-old watch attract the attention of the new generation, you ask? Because of how it animates time, we’d say. The Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit, like its predecessor the 20-Second Tempograph, measures a minute in 20-second instalments. This is done via a retrograde seconds hand that jumps back to the start of the 20-second arc at the 21st second. A contemporary and more wearable version of the Tempograph watch, the Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit is fascinating for the brand’s use of colour, new age materials and overall presentation.

Evolution Of An Upgrade: Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit

Atelier Louis Moinet’s 20-Second Tempograph, first released in 2014, stood out for its retrograde seconds display. This watch commanded tremendous respect for its partially open-worked dial, hours and minutes sub-dial, and retrograde seconds. And the brand went on to update this with their Tempograph Chrome in 2018. Featuring vintage-looking Roman numerals on the timekeeping sub-dial, and lume-filled spade hands, the Tempograph Chrome played up the colour contrasts. This, in turn, brought out tremendous depth in the dial.

Still, elements like the case size were rather dated. This prompted the brand to release the Tempograph Spirit in 2022. Now sized at 40mm, the Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit timepiece looks much larger than it wears. This is because of the sapphire crystal’s edge-to-edge design that offers a panoramic view of the dial. That year, the Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit won prestigious design prizes, including the iF award and Good Design accolade.

Enhanced Ergonomics And Efficient Design Of The Tempograph Spirit

Its more wearable and ergonomically-efficient 40mm size instantly gave the Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit a wider reach. The bezel and guilloche-patterned flange were replaced with a curved crystal that offers a sort of fish-eye lens view of the dial. Crafted from grade-5 titanium, the case weighs only 18g. Naturally, the rose gold variant is relatively heavier. Polishing and satin-finishing on the case enhance the luxury of both titanium and rose gold versions. And skeletonised lugs support the integrated alligator leather strap that the Tempograph Spirit is paired with. An exhibition caseback reveals sophisticated finishes on the LM85 automatic calibre including a circular ‘Côtes de Genève’ hobnail pattern and a concentric clous de paris motif on the oscillating weight.

Now sized at 40mm, the Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit timepiece looks much larger than it wears because of the sapphire crystal’s edge-to-edge design that offers a panoramic view of the dial. Skeletonised lugs support the integrated alligator leather strap that the Tempograph Spirit is paired with

Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit: A Study In Animating Time

With a multi-part construction, the dial of the Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit offers a unique three-dimensionality to the watch. The right half displays timekeeping while the left showcases the mechanics, almost as if the watch were vertically divided in half. Between three and six o’clock lies a sub-dial that displays hours and minutes. And, in a contemporary twist, here Arabic numerals replace Roman numerals. Faceted rhodium-plated hands match the crisp aesthetic of the numerals.

A central hand in red dominates the dial for its constant animation. This is the retrograde seconds hand that moves back to ‘00’ marked at 12.30, soon after reaching ‘20’ at 2.30. Why 20 seconds, though? This is because “some people prefer to watch time pass, others make the most of every second,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO and creative director of Atelier Louis Moinet. “The fact that 20 seconds are displayed on a sector and not a circle highlights the importance of each passing second and awakens the senses.”

Hours and minutes on the Tempograph Spirit are displayed on a sub-dial between three and six, with Arabic numerals, indexes and facetted rhodium-plated hands

A central retrograde seconds hand moves back to ‘00’ marked at 12.30 on the dial, soon after reaching the ‘20’ mark at 2.30

The small seconds sub-dial sits at nine o’clock, with three distinct colours for each 20-second sector

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The small seconds sub-dial sits at nine o’clock, with three distinct colours for each 20-second sector. Raised, rhodium-plated, chamfered and snailed bridges form the backdrop of this sub-dial, varnished with red, blue and black. Here, circular satin-finished gears stand out against blackened elements of the movement on this half of the dial. And, once again, contrasts play a major role in enhancing the depth and three dimensionality of the movement.

Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit In A Nutshell

• Case:7mm; grade 5 titanium or rose gold
• Glass: Box with edge-to-edge design
• Caseback: Sapphire crystal
• Dial: Multi-part construction; partially skeletonised; timekeeping sub-dial between three and six o’clock; 20-second retrograde display; small seconds sub-dial at nine
• Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 20-second retrograde display
• Movement: LM85, automatic calibre; 48-hour power reserve
• Strap: Integrated alligator leather strap; black

These watches have found their place with collectors, be it 20-Second Tempograph, the Tempograph Chrome or the Tempograph Spirit. This is mainly because of how Atelier Louis Moinet display the animation of time, its fluidity and fleeting nature. To have done it using contemporary materials like titanium, and by playing with light and contrast is commendable. Even for a brand named after master watchmaker, artist and creator of the chronograph, this would be no easy feat. And yet, like an artist trying to perfect their work, the brand keep updating and upgrading their creation, awards and accolades nothwithstanding.