Round-UpRadiantly Alluring: 10 Stunning Gradient-Dial Timepieces
Probably the most prominent style in dials, the gradient dial was first introduced during the late 1960s with the release of Zenith El Primero A385. Created by most major watch manufacturer now, these dials are visually arresting, and add a lot of depth and charm to the watches that feature them. Here we list of some of the most majestic gradient dials you can find today
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The allure of gradient dials is simply irresistible. Also sometimes known as smoked dials, they present a gradient of hues that gradually transition into each other in a radial, linear or even an undefined format. This effect imparts a sense of depth to the dial and lends more richness to the overall visual impact of the timepiece. First introduced during the late 1960s with the release of the Zenith El Primero A385, they became quite a rage during the following decade. However, their popularity slowly faded and soon they were hardly ever seen. But eventually, the likes of H. Moser & Cie. helped resurrect the style. With their smoked or ‘fumé’ dials, the independent, Schaffhausen-based brand helped put these dials back on the map. In recent years, we have seen an increasing number of watch manufacturers producing some of the most beautiful and majestic versions of gradient dials, and these displays have once again become a prominent feature across the watch industry. Here’s a look at 10 of the most mesmerising gradient dial timepieces that are nothing short of a visual treat.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moonphase
What makes the Clifton Baumatic a stupendously good-looking watch is the combination of a well-balanced grey lacquered dial, a polished stainless steel case, and a captivating moon phase display that consists of a rhodium-plated disc, surrounded by a depiction of a blue starry night sky. Sized at 42mm, the timepiece neatly displays central, three-hand timekeeping, a day indicator at 12 o’clock and an analogue date display that encircles the moon phase sub-dial located at six. Each detail has been meticulously executed by Baume & Mercier, and it showcases their mastery in luxury watchmaking. The watch is powered by the in-house Baumatic BM 14 movement, which runs at a frequency of 28,800vph and can store a power reserve of a whopping 120 hours. Visible through an exhibition caseback, the calibre promises outstanding performance and high accuracy.
Girard Perregaux Laureato Absolute Crystal Rock
The Laureato Absolute Crystal Rock exhibits Girard Perregaux’s obsession with pushing the boundaries of innovation and modern technology. Introduced in 2020, the timepiece has been crafted from carbon glass—a high-tech material formed by compressing several layers of carbon and glass fibre under extremely high temperatures—that is lighter in weight than titanium, yet is harder than steel. Presented in a neutral-hued case with a grey-coloured camouflage-style pattern, the watch retains the signature octagonal bezel and sporty looks of the laureate series, which make it instantly recognisable. The matt finish grey gradient dial is one of two superimposed, hollowed plates. It displays three sub-dials at three, six and nine o’clock and offers perfect legibility. Hidden behind the solid caseback is the automatic chronograph movement, GP03300, which provides a power reserve of 46 hours.
H Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool
Thanks to the minimalistic and pared-down philosophy of Moser, the gradient dial of Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool takes centre stage here. Presented in their ‘blue lagoon’ or turquoise hue, it evokes the nostalgia of the shimmering tropical waters that surround paradise islands and has a discrete look and feel. The dial comes bereft of any displays of additional complications, or extravagant decorations. It features the H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer, at the 12 o’clock position. Apart from displaying the central hour and minute hands, it consists of luminous, anthracite grey faceted applique indices, which exude modern and sporty vibes. Set in a 43mm stainless steel case with brushed and polished surfaces, the timepiece is equipped with the HMC 200—an automatic movement that runs at the frequency of 21,600vph and provides a minimum power reserve of three days.
Longines Legend Diver
A faithful recreation of the dive watches that Longines made during the 1960s, the Legend Diver consists of an internal rotating bezel, twin crowns, and a hefty case measuring 42mm. However, it is the dial that steals the limelight. The brown-coloured lacquered display with a gradient effect features cream-hued printing and generously long markers that effortlessly present clear legibility with a vintage-chic appeal. In addition to the arrowhead hands and the brand logo at 12, there is a date window neatly placed at three o’clock. Protected by scratch-resistant and antiglare sapphire crystal, the timepiece is water resistant up to 300m. The Legend Diver is equipped with the well-known calibre L.888.5, which is found in several other timepieces of the Heritage collection. Assuring reliability and high precision, the movement runs at 3.5Hz and can stores a power reserve of 64.
Oris Dat Watt Limited Edition
The dial of Oris Dat Watt Limited Edition is unlike any other. It was made in collaboration with the Netherlands-based Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS)—the organisation that aims to protect and converse the Wadden Sea, which is the world’s largest unbroken tidal flat system and was awarded ‘World Heritage Site’ status in 2009 by UNESCO. The timepiece displays the lunar cycle and tidal range in the Northern Hemisphere via the Oris-developed ‘pointer moon’ function, created for professional divers. Not only this, the dial comes with a mix of colours, including a greyish beachy shade at the bottom that slowly transitions into sky blue at the centre and turns darker at the top. Powering the Dat Watt Limited Edition is the calibre 761—based on Sellita 200-1—which runs at a frequency of 28,800vph and offers a power reserve of 38 hours. On turning the timepiece over, we get to see a solid caseback with a special engraving of the Wadden Sea tidal flats.
Panerai Radiomir California
The Radiomir California is difficult to not notice. With a massive 47mm case size, a distinctive design, a California dial (a combination of Roman and Arabic numerals), a large winding crown, and an earthy brown strap, the timepiece has a unique identity of its own and exemplifies the brand’s fine craftsmanship. The California dial in light brown is delightfully attractive and features a radial gradient effect, which elevates its overall charm. Another intricate detail is blue outline of the hour and minute hands, which perfectly complements the light brown background. Under the hood, we have a manual in-house movement, the P.3000 that beats at a frequency of 21,600vph and offers a significant power reserve of three days after being fully wound.
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time
Crafted in collaboration with Ishigaki Shinobu, a prolific Japanese bartender and mixologist, the Seiko’s Presage Cocktail Time range was first introduced in 2010 and offers budget-friendly dress timepieces that come with playful and colourful displays. Seen here is the blue iteration, which features an extremely eye-catching dial. The sunray engraving sparkles when hit with direct light and viewed from different angles, while the hour indices and timekeeping hands exude sophisticated charm. It is set in a 40.5mm case made from stainless steel with refined polishing, and a bulky crown that is large enough for a nice grip and easy winding. Beating inside is the self-winding calibre 4R35 that powers the day aperture at three and a three-hand timekeeping. With a frequency of 21,600vph, the movement provides a minimum power reserve of 41 hours and consists of 26 jewels. The timepiece is fashioned with a well-executed steel bracelet that makes for comfortable wear.
TAG Heuer Autavia
The TAG Heuer Autavia is a simple yet indescribably beautiful watch. Presented in a sporty 42mm case in stainless steel or bronze, along with a bidirectional-rotating bezel, the timepiece sits comfortably on the wrist and exudes elegant retro vibes. Giving it a modern look is its dial that features a gradient effect and is available in a host of shades, including blue, grey and green. Thanks to the luminous numerals, striking hands and the antiglare sapphire crystal glass, it is easy to read the time, while the date is also very legible. Beating inside is the reliable and robust calibre 5, which operates at a frequency of 28,800vph and offers a power reserve of 38 hours. It is based on Sellita SW200 and hidden behind a solid caseback—unlike the stainless steel versions, the bronze iteration comes with a titanium caseback. The timepiece is secured to the wrist with a stainless steel bracelet or a leather strap that elevates the overall vintage charm of the watch.
Tissot Seastar 1000 Chronograph
Water resistant up to 300m (approximately 1,000ft), housed in a high-quality stainless steel case and equipped with a reliable and accurate quartz chronograph movement, what’s not to like about this Seastar from Tissot! A formidable diving watch, the timepiece is sized at 45.5mm and displays a clean and legible red gradient dial with oversized timekeeping hands, coated with Super-LumiNova for optimal readability even in low-light conditions. Featuring a unidirectional-rotating, dive-timer bezel with an aluminium ring, screwed-down crown and pushers and a solid caseback, the Seastar 1000 Chronograph has been carefully designed and assembled by the Swiss brand and is super-comfortable to wear. What adds to the sporty look of the watch is its black rubber strap that feels sturdy and resilient.
Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A385
Every list of timepieces with gradient dial is incomplete without the mention of Zenith. The Swiss watch manufacturers are the pioneers of this style and had released the first-ever watch with a smoked dial in 1969. The Zenith El Primero A385 featured an alluring brown gradient dial with a vignette effect that blackens towards the edges and provides a striking sense of visual depth as if the dial were domed. Housed in a tonneau-shaped 37mm stainless steel case and equipped with the legendary El Primero movement, the timepiece became an instant hit and garnered a cult following over the years. In 2021, Zenith decided to pay homage to the aforementioned watch and introduced the Chronomaster Revival El Primero A385, which is an actual reproduction of the original model from 1969. Each attribute of the new timepiece is faithful to the source material, as it recreates the same warm tones and gradient effect of the original. It is paired with the steel ‘ladder’ bracelet—a modern remake of the Gay Frères bracelets that was seen on early El Primero watches. Running on the latest version of the legendary El Primero chronograph movement, this Revival El Primero A385 serves as a bridge between the past and present with its vintage charm and modern technology.
Shop The Story
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Baume & Mercier Clifton
MOA10548
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Girard-Perregaux Laureato
81060-36-693-FH6A
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H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer
3200-1214
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Longines Diving
L3.774.4.60.2
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Oris Aquis
01 761 7765 4185-SET
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Panerai Radiomir
PAM00931
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Seiko Presage
SRPB41J1
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TAG Heuer Autavia
WBE5116.EB0173
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TAG Heuer Autavia
WBE5190.FC8268
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TAG Heuer Autavia
WBE5114.EB0173
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TAG Heuer Autavia
WBE5116.FC8266
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Tissot T-Sport
T120.417.17.421.00
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Zenith Chronomaster
03.A384.400/385.M385
