Round-UpGeneva Watch Days 2021: Presenting 12 Outstanding Timepieces That Stole The Show
This year’s edition of Geneva Watch Days also largely relied on digital presentations and meetings, for brands to offer media representatives a sneak peek at their novelties for 2021—the continuing ‘new normal’. From collaborations and expanding lines and from new dials to new complications, here’s a look at the top new watches that stood out from the crowd
May We Recommend
Arnold & Son Globetrotter Steel
One of the brand’s bestselling lines, the Globetrotter is back with a revamped design displayed inside a stainless steel framework. Inspired by the marine chronometers developed by 18th century watchmaker, John Arnold that were known for their utmost precision, this world timer is a remarkable work of craftsmanship and innovation. It is available in two dial options—one in tonal blue, lacquered, with sunburst decoration, in an exclusive series of only 88 pieces, and the other, in silvery white, also lacquered with sunburst decoration, sold as a regular edition. The watch measures 45mm and showcases a stunning view of the Northern Hemisphere on the globe display. While most of the details remain the same as found in its predecessors, including the hand-painted and lacquered oceans and mountains, and the 24-hour world-time ring; the minutes chapter ring has been removed. Even the central arch has been slightly modified and is now sleeker, and allows a better view of the dial surface underneath. It is equipped with the in-house A&S6022 self-winding calibre, which supplies a power reserve of at least 45 hours.
Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer
The Bulgari Octo Roma collection is often overshadowed by its companion series, the Finissimo, which usually grabs all the attention with its records in slim timekeeping. However, the Roma series has its own strengths as the fuller Octo watch with more generous proportions that allow for bigger movements. It’s in this series that one can come across complications that haven’t yet been made slim enough to fit into a Finissimo case. Yet, the shape and structure of the Octo Roma is chiselled and structured like the other Octo. In this new WorldTimer edition, it has been crafted from advanced 904L steel, sized at 41mm, with one version featuring a DLC (diamond-like carbon) treatment. Housed within is the BVL257 automatic movement that offers a 42-hour power reserve, as it runs the timekeeping and the world-time functions. On the dial are the three timekeeping hands at the centre. On the periphery are the 24-hour ring and the disc with the 24 time zones represented by cities. The central time is meant to be the time in your present zone. In order to set the remaining time zones, the city for the current time zone needs to be brought to the 12 o’clock position, with the crown, and the 24-hour ring will align the central time with that zone at 12. Then, as long as the central time is correct, not only will the time on the 24-hour ring corresponding to the city at the 12 o’clock position be correct, but even the time on the ring corresponding to each of the other cities will be correct. With the popularity of world-time watches these days, it really is good to have a solid option of the complication from the likes of Bulgari.
Breitling Top Time Classic Cars Racing Chronographs
Known for their rich history in aviation timekeeping and churning out reliable ‘tool’ watches in that genre; the new vibrant Classic Car Racing Chronographs from Breitling surely come as a breath of fresh air. The capsule collection comprises three versions—red, green and blue chronographs that celebrate the edgy design codes of the 1960s, and pays homage to classic sports cars from that era. Each watch is inspired by one of three icons of American motorsports culture—the Chevrolet Corvette, the Ford Mustang, and the Shelby Cobra. Crafted in stainless steel, the range includes the 42mm Top Time Chevrolet Corvette in red and black, based on the striking design of the Corvette C2 from the mid-1960s, often referred to as the ‘Sting Ray’ by aficionados. Then there’s the 42mm green and brown Top Time Ford Mustang version, inspired by a car developed in record time in 1964, sparking a new genre of compact and affordable sports cars. And last but not least, there’s the Top Time Shelby Cobra version in blue and brown, measuring a slightly smaller 40mm. While the Corvette and Mustang watches are powered by Breitling’s COSC-certified calibre 25, the Shelby Cobra is equipped with the automatic calibre 41. Featuring engraved casebacks that display their respective cars’ emblems in great detail, these watches are water-resistant to 100m.
Doxa Sub 600T Pacific Limited Edition
During the 1980s, Doxa had unveiled a distinctive dive watch called Sub 600T that offered an angular 39mm case design and a crown uniquely placed at the four o’clock position. The timepiece received rave reviews from critics and watch enthusiasts alike, as it presented a silhouette that was quite offbeat at the time. Now, in 2021, Doxa have introduced the Sub 600T Pacific to pay homage to the original watch. Not deviating much from the design of its predecessor, the new timepiece has been crafted in partnership with the Australian watch blog Time+Tide, and it is housed in a 40mm case made from ultra-light titanium, along with exquisite finishing and brushed surfaces. Apart from featuring the signature patented Doxa bezel, the watch displays the dial in a brand new colour called ‘Pacific blue’—a reference to the hue of the ocean surrounding Australia, the home of Time+Tide. Under the hood, we have the durable and reliable Sellita SW200 movement, which runs at a frequency of 28,800vph and provides a power reserve of 38 hours. Worn with a blue rubber strap, the timepiece has a solid caseback and is water-resistant up to 600m.
Frederique Constant Highlife Skeleton
The Highlife collection of Frederique Constant was launched last year, offering an archetypal steel sport watch that wasn’t quite a part of the brand’s portfolio before then. The launch edition included an automatic and a perpetual calendar, as well as a Heartbeat version that offered a peek at the mechanism inside. This year though, the Swiss watchmakers have opened up the dial even more, to reveal a lot more of the automatic calibre FC-310 beating inside at a frequency of 28,800vph, offering a power reserve of 38 hours. What’s interesting about the skeletonised display though is the pattern through which the movement has been displayed. Now last year’s edition of the Highlife watches presented dials depicting latitudes and longitudes of the Earth, and this skeleton version takes that motif forward, as a grill through which you see the movement. The three-hand display is protected by a convex sapphire crystal glass, while on the reverse, you can also see the movement through a sapphire crystal caseback. The watch comes housed in a 41mm case, water-resistant to 50m, in either steel, or in a combination of steel and titanium, with a dark PVD treatment. The former has a contrasting dial in blue, and the latter has a more monochromatic look with a grey dial. Each version has a metallic bracelet to match its case, but they both also come with complimentary rubber straps that complement their dial colours, and can be easily interchanged with the default bracelets.
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges
The bridges of Girard-Perregaux have become emblematic for the brand, quite literally even, as the bridge motif has become a part of the brand’s emblem. However, that bridge is the classic bridge design, while its more modern rendition, the ‘neo’ bridge is seen in more modern and edgier watches from the Bridges collection of Girard-Perregaux. And this year, the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is the first watch to feature all three of its neo bridges crafted from rose gold, with black PVD treatment. A nod to the brand’s first big milestone—the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, from the 1800s—this edition is part of the brand’s 230th anniversary celebrations. “We wanted to create a watch that provides a bridge to our past, but also demonstrates our vision for the future,” explains Girard-Perregaux’s CEO, Patrick Pruniaux. “It draws on the talents of our artisans and watchmakers, pairing traditional methods with innovative techniques.” The watch also celebrates the essence of the Bridges collection, which is to make the bridges of the movement—acting as the mainplate—an integral part of the display, which reveals the details and intricate crafting of the mechanism’s components. And what a splendid open-worked mechanism it is—stripped down to the basics, but with sheer resplendence. Behind the first bridge, you can see the micro-rotor of the automatic calibre that offers a minimum power reserve of 60 hours. Behind the second bridge is the gear train, and on it are the hour and minute hands. And the tourbillon can be seen behind the third bridge. Through the transparent caseback, you can see the other sides of the bridges in titanium, covered in black. All this is housed in a 44mm, 18-karat red gold case, with a sapphire crystal ‘box’ for the glass as well as the caseback. This is fitted to a black alligator leather strap with a rubber effect, but the watch comes with an additional strap in the same material, but with a gold effect.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
In 2006, H. Moser & Cie. unveiled a fantastic interpretation of the perpetual calendar complication that stripped the function down to the absolute essentials in the display. The watch that housed that calibre won the complication prize at that year’s GPHGs (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève). In 2020, H. Moser & Cie. introduced their latest new collection, the Streamliner—inspired by streamliner locomotives from the 1920s and 30s in America—with a streamlined profile and an integrated bracelet. The steampunk design-inspired watch first came with a chronograph—which won the brand the chronograph prize at the 2020 GPHGs—and then as three-hand timekeeper. And now H. Moser have unveiled the perpetual calendar edition of the Streamliner, powered by the manual-winding calibre HMC 812—the latest version of the 2006 GPHG winner. Like that one, this too presents a pared-down version of the complication. The minimalistic display includes a stunted central month hand, which points at the 12 hour makers that double as month markers. With the date at four o’clock, there is a ‘flash calendar’ system that ensures an instantaneous date change at midnight, even when going from the 28th to the 1st at the end of February, going into March. The complex mechanism is aided by the use of two date discs behind that date aperture, with the dates split up between them. Diametrically opposite the date, at 10 o’clock, you’ll see a very subtle power reserve indicator. While earlier renditions of H. Moser’s perpetual calendar featured a small seconds hand, this one has a central seconds hand, joining the hour and minute hands that have overlays of Globolight—a ceramic-based material infused with Super-LumiNova for advanced luminosity. The transparent caseback reveals the PVD-treated components of the finely-finished movement, as well as a leap year indicator in the form of a 12-point star.
Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur Aventurine, Lapis-Lazuli and Malachite
This edition is for those who appreciate watches that use stones and glass for their dials. Louis Erard opted for their historic model, Le Régulateur to present three new models—the Excellence Régulateur Aventurine, Lapis-Lazuli, and Malachite as their showstoppers. Each of the three editions is limited to 99 pieces, but every piece is unique since no stone is identical in nature. The Aventurine version stands out with its gold speckled surface, the Lapis-Lazuli looks rich with a deep, cobalt hue dotted with silicate particles, and the Malachite looks regal with its verdant surface that imbues a calming effect on the wearer. These dials also require supreme watchmaking finesse since there are two levels—the layer of stone or glass and the snailed, opaline hour and small seconds counters. All three versions are powered by the automatic Sellita movement with an open-worked rotor, and are presented on matching leather straps in sync with their respective dials.
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Urban Tribe
Crafted in collaboration with the famous Parisian parkour and free-running expert, Simon Noguiera, the Aikon Urban Tribe is one of the latest offerings by the Swiss-based Maurice Lacroix. Sized at 42mm, the timepiece features a fully engraved stainless steel case and bracelet that not only showcase intricate design details but also exude a vibrant and street-inspired character. Instead of displaying polished or brushed surfaces, each surface is adorned with motifs that are inspired by the architecture populating the world’s urban landscapes. Each line and curve engraved on the timepiece is just mesmerising to look at and delivers sublime tactility. Housed in a stainless steel case, the Aikon Urban Tribe comes with an ergonomic design and a sunray-brushed Clous de Paris dial that displays luminescent hour and minute hands, a seconds hand and a date indication at three o’clock. It is powered by the automatic ML115 calibre that can run autonomously for around 38 hours and is visible through a transparent caseback. The movement’s oscillating mass is also engraved with the same patterns that adorn the case and bracelet.
Oris Aquis Date Upcycle
In line with their pursuit of sustainability and climate neutrality, this year, Oris expanded one of their most revered collections, the Aquis, by introducing a brand-new iteration that offers a unique and colourful dial made from recycled ocean plastic. What makes the dial of this edition of the Aquis Date special is the PET plastic or polyester that provides a distinctive pattern and colourway to each dial crafted from it. And no two dials can be identical, making each piece quite unique in appearance. To achieve this milestone, Oris partnered with #tide Ocean Material, a Swiss organisation that aims to reduce plastic garbage in our oceans and recycle it. Available in two different sizes—41.5mm and 36.5mm—the Aquis Date Upcycle is presented in a solid steel case, featuring a unidirectional-rotating bezel with a sleek, grey ceramic insert. Owing to its knurled profile, the bezel promises exceptional grip, and it feels smooth and solid while turning. Water-resistant up to 300m, the watch comes with a screw-down crown flanked by crown protectors. The timepiece is equipped with the automatic Oris 733 movement that runs at 28,800vph and offers a power reserve of 38 hours. Featuring an exhibition caseback, the Aquis Date Upcycle is paired with a steel bracelet.
Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor
The Tonda PF collection represents Parmigiani’s most modern set of watches with streamlined aesthetics and integrated bracelets, unveiled to mark the brand’s 25th anniversary, this year. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor measures 40mm and is a simple, pared-down, ultra-luxurious, two-hand watch with minimalism at its core. Available in two versions—in stainless steel with a platinum hand-knurled bezel, and in solid, 18-karat rose gold—these watches feature an uncluttered matt grey dial with guilloche and the new logo at 12 o’clock. It is powered by a new version of the ultra-slim, 3mm, automatic PF703 movement with a solid platinum micro-rotor, and offers a power reserve of at least 48 hours. This is integrated inside the structure of the movement rather than oscillating on its surface, which has helped to reduce the case thickness down to a mere 7.8mm, offering better wearability and comfort. The date window is at six o’clock and there’s also a minute track in relief, towards the outer edge of the dial. Both versions are water-resistant to 100m.
Urwerk UR-100 Electrum
Known for building timepieces that shun traditions and norms of horology, and push the boundaries of creativity beyond their limits, Urwerk have now introduced a limited edition of their UR-Satellite collection—the UR-100 Electrum. It is crafted from an alloy of gold and palladium—a reimagining of the naturally occurring alloy of gold and silver, called electrum, which was primarily used by the ancient Greeks, Egyptians and the Amerindian civilisation, to produce coins as a currency. The watch features a hypnotic pattern of concentric circles that are reminiscent of Greek amphitheatres. However, the UR-100 Electrum isn’t just about its looks. The timepiece’s dial comes with the signature space-time display of the UR-100, which consists of two scales that track and measure Earth’s travel through space. At 10 o’clock, it tracks the planet’s average rotation speed at the equator in 20 minutes. At two o’clock, it measures the distance the Earth travels around the sun, also in 20 minutes. Instead of the usual two-hand timekeeping, the time is indicated through wandering hours on a rotating wheel, which points to a minutes scale on the lower end of the display. Beating inside is the automatic calibre 12.01 that runs at a frequency of 28,800vph and can store a reserve of power of at least 48 hours. Limited to just 25 units, the UR-100 Electrum is fashioned with an elegant black alligator leather strap.
Shop The Story
-
Arnold & Son Globetrotter
1WTAS.U01C.C153S
-
Doxa SUB 600T
861.50.231.33
-
Frederique Constant Highlife
FC-310DGSKT4TNH6B
-
Frederique Constant Highlife
FC-310NSKT4NH6B
-
Girard-Perregaux Bridges
99296-52-001-BA6A
-
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner
6812-1200
-
Louis Erard Excellence
85237AA32.BVA36
-
Louis Erard Excellence
85237AA39.BVA37
-
Louis Erard Excellence
85237AA35.BVA35
-
Maurice Lacroix Aikon
AI6008-SS009-330-1
-
Oris Aquis
01 733 7766 4150-Set
-
Oris Aquis
01 733 7770 4150-Set
-
Parmigiani Tonda PF
PFC914-1020001-100182
-
Urwerk Electrum
UR 100 Electrum
