SpotlightWatches And Wonders Geneva 2023: 20 Of The Finest Novelties Showcased
The biggest watch fair of the year, Watches and Wonders, presented a true celebration of fine watchmaking from the heart of the industry. With tributes to legacies, a return of collections, expansions of bestsellers, new complications, and reinforcements of the strongest trends of the day, here are 20 exemplary new timepieces unveiled at haute horlogerie’s greatest showcase of 2023
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Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic
Swiss watchmaker Alpina debuts at Watches and Wonders 2023 by updating their Alpiner line with four watches to commemorate the brand’s 140th anniversary and commitment to extreme sports. Cynosure of all eyes is the Extreme Automatic Blue watch, which takes forward the brand’s legacy to create non-magnetic, waterproof, rustproof, and impact-resistant watches. Its unconventional steel case piles a round bezel atop a peculiar cushion shape with side lugs to measure 41mm x 42.5mm, and further disintegrates the look with alternating polished and brushed matte finishes. The skeleton caseback offers a peek into the in-house automatic movement AL-525 calibre that beats at 28,800vph, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The screwed-down crown with knurled rubber protection, ensures an impressive water resistance up to 200m. A highlight is the integration of triangles into the watch’s design vocabulary as a tribute to the logo and the snow-capped Alps. There’s a red one on the seconds hand, a few are embedded on the bezel and crown tip, and the patterning on the entire blue dial. In a major design shift, Alpina has fitted three of the new models with integrated steel straps in brushed finish, made from tapering links that end in deployant clasps for a slim look and better fit.
Angelus Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB
The first of Angelus’ tribute editions as part of their La Fabrique collection, the new Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB—described as ‘sublime’—is a reissue of the brand’s 1960 chronograph designed for use by doctors. While the layout of the dial—with pulsometer and asthmometer scales, marked prominently along the periphery—remains the same as the vintage model, the new 39mm case is made from 316L surgical steel. Angelus’ in-house calibre A5000, visible through the exhibition caseback, has been modified to display timekeeping with small seconds at nine o’clock and a central chronograph hand measuring up to 60 seconds—the only feature required for both scales and a diagnosis.
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon
Elegant, classy, and resplendent are adjectives that best describe the new Ultrathin Tourbillon from Arnold & Son that comes in a limited-edition of 88 pieces only. Crafted in an 18-karat red gold case, this round timekeeper measures 41.5mm in diameter, 8.3mm in thickness (or thinness), and is water-resistant to 30m. This is fitted with a beautiful, silver-toned dial with an opaline finish, with an off-centre dial at 12 o’clock, crafted with genuine white opal and is framed by a golden-hued band. The tourbillon aperture positioned at six o’clock, too, is encircled by the same ring and this lends the watch a high semblance of symmetry and balance in terms of overall aesthetics. Its bridges are hand-engraved and crafted in yellow gold, and fuse seamlessly with the mainplate’s aperture. It is driven by the in-house A&S8300 calibre that—at only 2.97mm—is one of the slimmest movements ever designed by the brand, supplying a power reserve of 100 hours.
Baume & Mercier Riviera Azur 300m
To commemorate 50 years of their Riviera line, Baume & Mercier introduced two new 42mm dodecagonal dive watches. The first dive timer in this collection was the 1981 release with a black dial and bezel. This new version features a striking 12-sided unidirectional rotating bezel with lacquered gradation on the first 15 minutes of the scale, and an anodised aluminium ring that makes it easy to use. Two translucent dial options—in smoked blue or grey sapphire—offer a glimpse into the Baumatic (self-winding) movement within the BM13-1975A calibre that offers a 120-hour power reserve along with resistance to everyday magnetic fields, and the timepieces are water-resistant to 300m.
Bell & Ross BR-03 92 Diver White Bronze
The sophisticated opaline white dial of the Bell & Ross BR-03 92 Diver White Bronze, paired with a traditional material like bronze—and a polished bronze unidirectional rotating bezel, topped with a darker brown polished aluminium ring to finish it—is a gorgeous new timepiece in keeping with the brand’s ‘circle-within-a-square’ design code. As the timepiece ages, the patina on the bronze against the stark white of the dial will give it a stunning retro-chic look. This well-thought-out design and use of materials, including the hypoallergenic stainless steel caseback engraved with the iconic diver’s helmet, is among the more stunning ‘tools’ inspired by aviation instruments designed by Bell & Ross.
Czapek Antarctique Révélation
As the name suggests, the new Czapek Antarctique Révélation reveals a skeletonised look that offers a fantastic view of the new bespoke, purpose-built SXH7 movement inside. Inspired by the Antarctique Rattrapante of 2021 that featured the first split-seconds chronograph to appear on the dial, the 2023 Antarctique edition offers a time-only version, stripped bare to reveal the iconic micro-rotor calibre in a skeletonised version. Offering the wearer a fascinating invitation to dive deep into the mechanics of the new SXH7 movement, the Antarctique Révélation was developed from suggestions made by fans of the brand. These included: turning the movement upside down, modifying the placement of the small-seconds sub-dial, reversing the escapement, and engraving on both sides of the oscillating mass. This luxury sports watch comes in a 40.5mm case fitted with a distinctive integrated steel bracelet and is limited to just 100 pieces.
Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture
The Classic Tourbillon Manufacture is a gradual progression from their HeartBeat timepieces that exposed the balance wheel through an aperture sporting a ‘comma-shaped’ tourbillon cage. Living out the idiom ‘kill two birds with one stone’, the new Frederique Constant watch launch coincides with the brand’s debut at Watches and Wonders 2023 as they celebrate their 35 years in the horological industry. The Classic Tourbillon runs on the in-house FC-980 calibre, a self-winding movement that promises a 38-hour power reserve at 28,000vph. This movement is encompassed in an 18-karat rose-gold case that has shrunk to 39mm from the original 42mm. Apart from the tourbillon at six o’clock, enhancing the sun-brushed anthracite grey dial are rose gold-plated hour markers and three hands (two on the main dial, one in the aperture). Two sturdy sapphire crystals protect the case on both sides. A dark brown, matte leather strap with a deployant clasp with logo completes the look.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph
While last year, Grand Seiko introduced their first mechanical complication and a series of sports watches from the Evolution 9 Collection, this year, they have expanded this series by launching their first mechanical chronograph—the Tentagraph or the 10-beat chronograph. This revolutionary watch is powered by their new Tentagraph Calibre 9SC5, which beats ten times per second—ensuring high accuracy when measuring elapsed time. It is equipped with an energy-efficient escapement and two barrels, which keep the watch running for at least three days—even when the chronograph is in operation, making it the timekeeper with the longest power reserve in the industry, as of today. Water-resistant to 100m, it comes in a 43mm titanium case and bracelet—about 30 percent lighter and more scratch resistant than stainless steel and features two convex pushers (at two and four o’clock) that ensure the optimum levels of functionality. The blue dial showcases a 30-minute chronograph counter at nine o’clock, a 12-hour counter at six o’clock, and a 60-second sub-dial positioned at three o’clock, along with a date window nestled between four and five o’clock.
Hublot Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon
If you hold the new Hublot Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon, the weight will take you by surprise, even if you know that carbon is a lightweight material. The heft in the movement is in complete contrast against the lightness of the watch’s construction. The HUB6035 manufacture automatic movement that runs a tourbillon, and draws its 72-hour power reserve from a micro-rotor—visible on the dial side—is just incidental in the process. A silvery-grey carbon fibre is what the 43mm case is made of, as well as the integrated bracelet. With a titanium caseback, this really is Hublot’s celebration of their splendid art of fusion. A tourbillon timepiece that’s this light and wearable, while being robust is definitely impressive, to say the least.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Titanium
In this age of integrated metallic sport watches, it was only a matter of time before the likes of IWC would revive their version of the archetype—the Ingenieur series, which was originally designed by the ‘founder’ of the archetype himself, Gerald Genta. Their focus collection this year—after years of Pilots, Portugiesers, and so on—is the 2023 edition of the updated Ingenieur that includes the titanium version. With a complementary grey dial, featuring the same pattern seen in its companion steel versions, this one sized at 40mm, is water-resistant to 100m. Housed within is an automatic calibre with a power reserve of 120 hours or five days.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Secret Necklace
While Jaeger-LeCoultre have created several jewellery editions of their watches, a pendant version of their most iconic Reverso has never been created, until this year. As part of their celebration of the Reverso’s inspiration from the Golden Ratio and its art deco roots, the new Secret Necklace exemplifies geometry in design, as well as symmetry on various levels. The front of the 18-karat gold watch—36.78mm by 18mm—features an intricate pattern, while the ‘secret’ timekeeping dial is on the reverse. With diamonds and black onyx set across the piece, this 38-hour manual-winding watch is meant for the wearer’s eyes only, upside-down as it is, when suspended—like a pendant of the sautoir necklace it is part of—will be seen upright only by the wearer when they lift it. This timepiece certainly takes the Reverso to another level.
Louis Moinet Impulsion
Known for their futuristic designs blended with classic undertones, Louis Moinet combines two complications—the chronograph and the tourbillon—in their new Impulsion timepiece. While this may not be a revolutionary step, the differentiating factor here is the execution. Just like in their Memoris watches, the chronograph mechanism is entirely visible on the dial side, coupled with a tourbillon at six o’clock. And while it may look complex to the eye, one single pusher at two o’clock activates the chronograph hand, which glides over the rotating flying tourbillon, whose off-centre cage does one revolution per minute. It comes in an 18-karat pink-gold case, where the interior (made of titanium) houses and protects the in-house Memoris calibre that drives this timekeeper. Composed of 301 parts, it features a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and a single pusher, and supplies an energy reserve of 96 hours. Water-resistant to 50m, the Impulsion is presented on a blue leather strap and is limited to 28 pieces.
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition
Oris’ ProPilot X Kermit Edition is set in a 39mm titanium case with a happy, joy-inducing Kermit-the-frog green dial. The highlight of this watch makes an appearance once a month on the date window at six o’clock—The Muppet’s Kermit with a wide and earnest grin pops up on the first of the month to mark ‘Kermit Day’, a day that’s all about fun and not taking life too seriously. The timepiece is powered by the brand’s in-house Calibre 400, with enhanced accuracy and magnetic resistance within chronometer certification standards. For a brand that takes the mechanics of watchmaking seriously, Oris prove that they also know when and how not to take things too seriously with this refreshing take on timekeeping.
Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar
Two fascinating new Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar watches feature essential timekeeping functions, day and date, and a monthly calendar displayed as a rotating outer ring on the dial. Fascinating, because watching the month change on the disc is instantaneous and will likely prompt the wearer to readjust the date just to watch the month (in Italian to honour the brand’s heritage) change in one go, a feature made possible by the cam in the movement. The timepiece is powered by the brand’s in-house automatic P.9010/AC movement—a modification of their P.9010 calibre—which ensures the change from 30-day and 31-day months is automatic, except at the end of February, when the wearer needs to adjust the date manually.
Parmigiani Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante
A world first, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante released at the Watches and Wonders 2023, introduces a minimalistic take on measuring the elapsed minutes, thanks to a unique split-minutes function, invalidating the need of a bezel. Following the functional continuity of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, the new Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante is not only user-friendly with its simple-yet-efficient functionality but also ensures optimum legibility and design elegance. Pegged as the perfect daily companion, the timepiece sports a sleek 40mm stainless-steel case structure with a 950-platinum bezel having fine knurled edges. The dial emits both warmth and sophistication; courtesy the sandy grey surface with the contrasting rhodium-plated gold indicators and 18-karat rose-gold hands. Powered by a modified GMT Rattrapante calibre (PF052), the timepiece promises to make every second count.
Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans
The Ripples Blue Jeans marks the brand’s third sports watch from their Ripples line, having an integrated stainless-steel bracelet with a folding buckle, attached to a cushion-shaped case, and a dial showcasing the trademark ‘rippled’ effect. Kick-starting the Ripples edition in March 2022 was the Ripples Black Original—entirely in steel. The subsequent steel version had a yellow-gold dial to commemorate the brand’s 20th anniversary. Now, the light-blue dial of Ripples Blue Jeans is your own personal patch of cool. The LA City case contains the in-house SMA03-T calibre, a mechanical self-winding movement and mega attraction by itself with its rhodium-plated exterior covered in Geneva stripes, plus added elements of hand-finished bridges and hand-bevelled angles. The movement beats at 28,880vph, promising a 52-hour power reserve and 50m water resistance. Apart from the classic rippled effect, the outer minute ring and the small seconds sub-dial at 1:30 (between one and two o’clock) also enhance the dial’s aesthetics. Available in a limited-edition of 60 pieces, this Swiss watch also highlights some notable British-inspired features such as the ‘Big Ben’ inspired spade hands and the ‘Piccadilly’ case.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glass Box
In a new 42mm case size, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon ‘Glass Box’ features a box-dome shaped sapphire crystal glass over a stunning blue dial with racing orange highlights. The monochromatic chronograph counters at three and nine o’clock with thick silver-hued rings only serve to emphasise the 60-second tourbillon at six o’clock. The timepiece is best viewed at an angle with the domed crystal accentuating a curved minute track on the edge of the dial. Reminiscent of the 1960s Carrera Chronograph with its domed Plexiglas over the dial, the Tourbillon Glass Box is a fitting celebration of 60 years of the brand’s racing watch collection, and is powered by their in-house TH20-09 calibre.
Trilobe Les Matinaux Sunray Silver
Like many of the earlier iterations of the Trilobe Les Matinaux edition, the new Sunray Silver version of the bold collection is a welcome addition to an elegant group of watches. The timepiece marks a bold step towards moving forward (like time) and features a unique system of three rotating rings which move forward. Each ring carries with it the different scales of time; the large ring for hours, the medium one for minutes and lastly the smallest ring to read the seconds off the dial. Available in a multitude of case materials and dial options, the Sunray Silver edition comes in two case sizes, 40.5mm and 38.5mm, made from 18-karat rose gold. Elegant and sophisticated, this timepiece combines modern watch design with the old-school spirit of the iconic, yet simple dress watch.
U-Boat Capsoil Doppiotempo
When it comes to U-Boat watches, it is a given that designer Italo Fontana ensured that patrons got accustomed to big dials like the U-1942 released in 2009. Even though many watches today, hold a rather average-sized case structure, this year, the Italian maison introduced a range of 55mm watches under their most acclaimed creation—the Capsoil Doppiotempo. Offering a perfect combination of two successful models—the Capsoil and 1938 Doppiotempo, the 2023 launches feature a perfect synthesis of dual-time function. The presence of an internal rotating bezel set against the ‘Oil Immersion’ case structure (where the case is filled with an oil bath) gives the timepiece an edge rarely found on the watches of today. The Capsoil Doppiotempo model is available in a satin-finished steel case, featuring a black dial with beige indexes combined with green numerals placed on the internal chapter ring on the periphery.
Zenith Pilot Automatic Ceramic
Forsaking their traditional vintage-inspired design codes, the new Zenith Pilot collection unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023 is resolutely modern, reliable, and versatile. Presented versions of steel or black ceramic, the Zenith Pilot Automatic serves as a foundation watch for this new collection. Sleek in its aesthetics, the timepiece features a new case design with a flat-top bezel, an oversized crown, a distinctive opaline dial with large, applied Arabic numerals and a white line on top of the date window that symbolises a plane’s turn coordinator or artificial horizon. Powering the watch is Zenith’s El Primero 3620 automatic calibre, offering 60 hours of autonomy, when fully wound.
