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SpotlightCelebrating The 110th Anniversary Of The Iconic Seiko Laurel

Seven new Seiko iterations from the Prospex, Presage, 5 Sports, and Astron collections celebrate the iconic Laurel that was Japan’s first wristwatch

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From the brand’s inception in 1881 till 1913, Japanese watchmaker Seiko gained reputation for producing clocks, pocket watches and even constructing their first clock tower that housed the company store. Observing the international market heavily leaning towards the new trend of wristwatches, Seiko gave Japan its first wristwatch in 1913. It was the Laurel. Designwise, it inspired subsequent Seiko dress watch collections—namely Prospex, Presage, 5 Sports, and Astron. As 2023 marks the 110th anniversary of this ‘mothership’ watch, Seiko have unveiled seven iterations bearing some likeness to the original Laurel in terms of enamel dials and 12 o’clock hour marker in red. Below are the new iterations.

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB401

Of the seven new iterations, the 1,500 limited-run Seiko SPB401 comes closest looks-wise to the first-issue Laurel. The defining attributes are the stainless steel case with ‘Super Hard Coating’, a white enamel dial with timekeeping elements marked in black hue, a red ‘12’, a double curved sapphire crystal glass with antireflective coating and display caseback. Sealed from both sides, the watch offers water resistance upto 100m and magnetic resistance upto 4,800 a/m.

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB401 Super Hard Coating steel case 45 hour power reserve blue hands
The Seiko SPB401 bears strong traits with the Laurel such as stainless steel case with ‘Super Hard Coating’, a white enamel dial with timekeeping elements marked in black, a red ‘12’ o’clock, a double curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and display caseback

New dial additions include the small seconds sub-dial overriding the six o’clock hour marker, the half-moon power reserve indicator at nine o’clock and blue hands. The watch runs on calibre 6R27 automatic movement with 29 jewels beats at 28,800vph with 45-hour power reserve with fully wound. Securing the watch firmly onto the wrist is the brown leather strap fitted with stainless steel deployant clasp.

Seiko Presage Style60’s SSK015

The sportiest amongst the three new Presage watches inspired by the Laurel is the Seiko SSK015. This 3,500-piece limited edition features a 40.8mm stainless steel case—without the ‘Super Hard Coating’—cradles a two-toned silver-grey dial. Giving the appearance of a fat bow fastening a gift are the hour and minute hands outlined in glossy blue, along with blue seconds hands and the fourth hand as GMT indicator with blue arrowhead.

The Watch Guide
Giving the appearance of a fat bow fastening a gift are the hour and minute hands outlined in glossy blue, along with blue seconds hands and the fourth hand as GMT indicator with blue arrowhead on the Seiko SSK015

Along with the indexes is an outer 60-minute chapter ring with an inverted red triangle at 12 o’clock; a position that harks to the original design. Enhancing legibility and helping the watch achieve water resistance up to 50m is the protective sapphire crystal on the dial and the screw-down display caseback in box-shaped Hardlex crystal. The watch runs on Calibre 4R34 automatic GMT movement that beats at 21,600vph, and promises 41-hour power reserve. Completing the look is a brown leather NATO-style strap with buckle.

Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB413

This Presage model, Seiko SPB413, features stainless steel case with ‘super hard coating’ fitted with antireflective double-curved sapphire crystal and display-style caseback. This construction produces respectable water resistance upto 100m. Securing the 40.2mm case to dark brown leather strap—secured to stainless steel three-fold clasp with push button release—are four sharp angular lugs.

The Watch Guide
The minimalistic dial subtly experiments with textures; an asanoha (hemp leaf) patterned surface, silver indexes, silver outlined hands, a sliver of blue as seconds hand, the date aperture and watch name in black lettering

The minimalistic dial subtly experiments with textures; an asanoha (hemp leaf) patterned surface, silver indexes, silver outlined hands, a sliver of blue as seconds hand, the date aperture and watch name in black lettering. Powering the 2,000-piece limited edition watch is calibre 6R55 with 24 jewels, which beats at 21,600vph with 72-hour power reserve.

Seiko 5 Sports SRPK41

The Seiko SRPK41 takes the road less travelled with a cream dial. Its 39.4mm stainless steel case with Hardlex crystals protecting the dial and caseback, together promise upto 100m water resistance. This is the only model of the seven without the red accent at 12 o’clock, and instead features a 24-hour cycle, like an inner circle before the grey Arabic numerals as hour markers.

The Watch Guide

This Seiko iteration is without the red accent at 12 o’clock, and instead features a 24-hour cycle, like an inner circle before the grey Arabic numerals as hour markers

The Watch Guide

The iteration comes with a brown leather strap with three-fold clasp and push button release

Powered by the automatic calibre 4R36, the watch beats at 21,600vph, offers upto 41-hour power reserve and magnetic resistance of 4,800. Like the typical steel sports watch, this iteration comes attached to five-link stainless steel bracelet, plus a brown leather strap with three-fold clasp and push button release; both featuring stainless steel deployant clasp.

Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB409

Your eye first travels to the eccentric blue outlined hour and minute hands of the GMT Alpinist, Seiko SPB409, available in limited edition of 3,000. The 39.5mm stainless steel case features the trademark ‘super hard coating’, attached double curved sapphire crystal, and screw-down display caseback. The result: an impressive 200m water resistance.

The Watch Guide

Your eye first travels to the eccentric blue outlined hour and minute hands of the GMT Alpinist, Seiko SPB409, available in limited edition of 3,000

The Watch Guide

A vivid red accent indicates north on the rotating compass bezel

Powered by calibre 6R54, the automatic GMT movement beats at 21,600vph and offers 72-hour power reserve. A vivid red accent indicates north on the rotating compass bezel at 12 o’clock, and a tiny date window sits between four and five o’clock indexes; inserted almost like an afterthought. The watch comes attached with a detachable three-link stainless steel bracelet, and complimentary brown leather strap with stainless steel deployant clasp.

Seiko Astron GPS Solar SSJ019

What makes the Seiko SSJ019 the costliest among the seven iterations is the octagonal titanium case with rectangular pushers and round crown, and lugs cradling a circular bezel. Adding to the geometric mix, are the faceted hour markers. And of course, the slew of usual suspects: ‘super hard coating’ stainless steel case, ‘60’ minute red blocked at 12 o’clock, white dial, and brown leather strap with deployant clasp and push-button release. that measures 41.2mm in diameter by 12mm thick.

The Watch Guide
What makes the Seiko SSJ019 the costliest among the seven iterations is the octagonal titanium case with rectangular pushers and round crown, and lugs cradling a circular bezel

Powering the Seiko SSJ019 is the Calibre 3X62 solar movement with GPS-controlled timekeeping, high-speed timezone adjustment, and perpetual calendar. A flat sapphire crystal glass protects the dial, and overall, the watch offers 100m of water resistance.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 sec Solar Chronograph SFJ009

On the heels of the four Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph iterations unveiled earlier this year, comes the Seiko SFJ009. The 42mm stainless steel case with 12.9mm thickness appears hefty, yet smoothly accommodate the new Seiko Calibre 8A50. Four black sub-dials occupy the surface of the brushed silver dial; with three registers in the top half and the largest sub-dial showing the home time at six o’clock. The solar-powered quartz movement powers a 1/10th second counter at 10 o’clock, seconds counter at 12 o’clock, and 1/100th-of-a-second stopwatch—sub-dial at three o’clock—precise up to +/- 15 seconds per month.

The Watch Guide

Four black sub-dials occupy the surface of the brushed silver dial; with three registers in the top half and the largest sub-dial showing the home time at six o’clock

The Watch Guide

To operate these sub-dials, look for the three pushers and the crown

To operate these sub-dials, look for the three pushers and the crown. A curved sapphire crystal seals the dial from external elements. Instead of a red accent at 12 o’clock, the chronograph sub-dials feature red hands. Attached to this 3,500 limited-run quartz-powered watch is a matching bracelet with buckle and complimentary leather strap fitted with a three-fold clasp having push button release.

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