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ReviewBy Popular Demand: The Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Makes A Comeback

Inspired by elements from modern architecture and aviation, the ProPilot X propelled Oris into uncharted territory when it was first launched in 2019. Featuring the then new calibre 115, whose intricate workings are presented in vivid detail through a virtual reality film, the Oris ProPilot X was a skeletonised masterpiece, which was soon sold out. In 2023, the very modern aviation-inspired skeleton timepiece is making a comeback, on popular demand

May We Recommend

ProPilot X
The ProPilot X is Oris’ latest offering and is a visually stunning masterpiece

An Overview

Oris has had a lot to celebrate over the last few years. The brand have been at the top of their game, with some incredibly good-looking and reliable watches in its roster. Possibly offering the best value in the Swiss watch industry, their honest pricing has roped in true watch enthusiasts and made them loyal patrons of Oris. With timepieces that range from modern dive watches to vintage-inspired pilot watches, Oris’s offerings have a lot of takers. Everybody loves Oris. They are the ‘Raymond’ of the horological world. In 2019, they exhibited a bit of a rebellious streak, wanting to bring something edgy and disruptive to the table. It was for their 115th anniversary, and they deffinitely made a statement with calibre 115, which marked that milestone with aplomb. Soaring in popularity, the watch flew off the shelves. But now, in 2023, the bestselling novelty is making a comeback. Let’s take a closer look at returning flagship timepiece from the outstanding Oris. 

The Watch Guide

The 44mm case of the ProPilot X is made of titanium, making it lightweight, durable and hypoallergenic

The Watch Guide

The beautiful calibre 115 is visible through the ProPilot X's exhibition caseback

The Watch Guide

Despite the busy, open-worked dial, the clarity is quite good, even in the dark, thanks to the luminosity of the hands and markers

A Leaf Out Of The Past

Let’s start with the party piece of this watch, which is the calibre 115. The movement is in-house, but apart from powering the watch’s time-telling functions, it is also a part of a rich and illustrious story that goes back to the 1900s. Not many enthusiasts know this, but from the time Oris was founded till the brand resorted to using Sellita and ETA movements in 1981, it had already created over 200 in-house calibres. But then the quartz crisis hit, and it hit hard. The company, however, braved its way through the plummeting graphs of the Swiss watch market. In 2004, the independent company decided that it was high time to continue creating movements they could call their own. This ambitious project, in collaboration with the technical specialists at L’École Téchnique Le Locle, took 10 years to come to fruition, and finally, in 2014, at the brand’s 110th anniversary, they revealed the aptly named calibre 110. Since then, the brand has unveiled a new in-house calibre every year. 

The ProPilot X Calibre 115: Impressions

The Movement

This year’s in-house calibre by Oris is special owing to the brand celebrating its 115th anniversary. It makes its debut in the brand new Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115. Improving on the calibre 110, as well as its successors, calibre 115 wasn’t a simple skeletonising job. Open-working its in-house movement took nearly two years of research and development. The result is quite spectacular, as it presents an amalgamation of an industrial DNA and a futuristic design philosophy. The 115, just like the 110, offers a truly impressive 10-day power reserve, thanks to a sizeable mainspring barrel, and a low frequency of 3Hz. This hand-wound movement also has a non-linear power-reserve indicator, which means the distance that the hand travels between the points in the reserve grows as the power declines. 

ProPilot X
The calibre 115 is a hand-wound movement operated through the watch’s single crown
The Case

The 44mm case is designed from the ground up and boasts a construction in grade-2 and grade-5 titanium. The galvanised body seamlessly wraps around this new movement, making the finished product fit like an (aviation) glove. The bezel is knurled and is clearly inspired by the blades of a modern jet engine, adding to its pilot watch credentials.

The Watch Guide

The 44mm case of the ProPilot X boasts a construction in grade-2 and grade-5 titanium, making it incredibly strong yet light

The Watch Guide

The calibre 115 has a truly impressive 10-day power reserve, thanks to a sizeable mainspring barrel, and a low frequency of 3Hz

Lukas Bühlmann, senior product design engineer for Oris, emphasises on maintaining a balance between the the formal language of the case and the movement. “How do you design a modern watch that is not a fashion watch? We wanted to create something contemporary that would retain its relevance as fashions change,” he expounds. The design team drew inspirations from the worlds of aviation and architecture for the aesthetics. “We gave this a strong architectural look.” Bühlmann explains, “The skeletonised barrel draws your eye first and then the bridges, and then you start seeing the detail in the wheels. The case is more like a stealth plane. There’s an exciting interplay between the movement and the static elements. “

The Watch Guide

Oris has turned to modern-day architecture for inspiration to craft this watch

The Watch Guide

The inspirations are as clear as day on this watch with its industrial design and clean lines

The Bracelet

The titanium bracelet is unique to this watch, and is a piece of art on its own. The links connect seamlessly, and the unique, fighter jet-esque design of the folding clasp with ‘lift’ engraved on the top maintains the visual flow of the watch. 

The Watch Guide
The titanium bracelet is designed exclusively for this watch, and is a piece of art on its own
The Dial

At a glance, the dial of the ProPilot X is reminiscent of modern day architecture. Visually, there is a lot going on. Skeleton watches are a tricky bunch. You have to walk a fine line of visual balance, or you either fall into a void of complete non-legibility or your timepiece ends up on the chintzy side.

The Watch Guide

This handsome timepiece has a lot of depth in its open-worked display

The Watch Guide

At 44mm, the watch is a little large, but it makes such a strong statement on the wrist

The Watch Guide

The ProPilot X Calibre 115 comes with a rubber strap as well

The Watch Guide

The rubber strap is a little sportier, in our opinion, even if it does lack the edgy architectural feel of the bracelet

What Oris has done here, quite honestly, is astounding. Sticking to the industrial, yet modern DNA, the dial is perfectly legible, yet interestingly intricate. The hands, with a generous layer of luminous material, stands out brilliantly even against the hubbub it lays on top of, while the  small seconds and the 10-day power reserve indicator balance out the rest of it. This is a watch that is proud of the movement underneath and displays it in all its glory, without being pretentious. 

The Watch Guide
If we had to sum up the new ProPilot X in a couple of words, we'd call it a skeletonised masterpiece—a perfect amalgamation of design and watchmaking savoir faire

Final Thoughts

This is a first for Oris. The brand has rarely ventured into unknown territory, and creating something this avant-garde and wild marks the entry of Oris in a brand new world. The watch is completely unique, appeals to modern wrists, and—in true Oris tradition—doesn’t burn a hole in your pocket. This is most certainly the current apex of Oris’ skills and prowess as a watchmaker, and here at The Watch Guide, we absolutely love it. 

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10 comments
  • Ajaya Kumar maharana January 31, 2020 at 1:00 pm

    M interest to buy this watch

    • The Watch Guide February 1, 2020 at 12:09 pm

      Hi Ajaya,

      Thank you for your interest in purchasing this watch. You can click on ‘request an offer’ for the product in the article, submit your details, and someone from Ethos will get in touch with you. Alternatively, of you need any specific assistance, Ethos can definitely help you out with choosing a watch. For help, suggestions, and information on availability and prices, you can call our luxury watch helpline and speak to one of our consultants. The numbers are +91 8725028882 or 8725016301, and the helpline is open between 10:30am and 6:00pm, Monday to Saturday.

      Thank you for reading!
      The Watch Guide

  • freeloader November 27, 2019 at 5:03 pm

    plis gib 4 free k ty

  • Mohammed jawed Akhtar November 23, 2019 at 7:50 pm

    Good vedio

  • azeem bhai November 23, 2019 at 11:27 am

    Watsapp me the details of pricing

    • The Watch Guide November 26, 2019 at 4:59 pm

      Hello Azeem,

      Thanks for your interest in the Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115. The price for this watch is approximately INR 4.99 lakh. You can read more about the watch here . In case you require any further information, or have any specific queries on availability, or anything related to other watches, you may call our luxury watch helpline and speak to one of our consultants. The numbers are +91 8725028882 or 8725016301, and the helpline is open between 10:30am and 6:00pm, Monday to Saturday.

      Thank you for reading
      The Watch Guide

  • Lalitheswara Raju September 26, 2019 at 11:42 am

    An awesome post with a grand description of the time piece. Hope it had all the Swiss precision and global value.

  • Sujal Sarkar September 25, 2019 at 11:05 pm

    I need a expensive and stylist watch…….

    • The Watch Guide September 26, 2019 at 3:00 pm

      Hello Sujal,

      Ethos can definitely help you out with choosing an expensive and stylish watch. Please explore the Ethos catalogue via this link: https://www.ethoswatches.com/brands.html. You can click on ‘request an offer’ for any product, submit your details, and someone from Ethos will get in touch with you. Alternatively, for specific suggestions, and information on availability and prices, you can call our luxury watch helpline and speak to one of our consultants. The numbers are +91 8725028882 or 8725016301, and the helpline is open between 10:30am and 6:00pm, Monday to Saturday.

      Thank you for reading!
      The Watch Guide

  • S.D.Sethia. September 19, 2019 at 1:09 am

    The detailed information and photographs of watches provided by you are very fascinating and interesting. Please keep this moving.

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