ReviewA Song of Light And Fire: Girard-Perregaux’s Fiery New Laureato Absolute

With over two centuries of uninterrupted watchmaking prowess under their belt, multiple watershed innovations—including being the first to create a Swiss quartz movement—and a plethora of quintessential timepieces, Girard-Perregaux have long been a horological giant. It was in the year 1975 that they introduced a collection that has now become their pride and joy—a poster child of sorts for the maison. That’s quite a compliment for the collection when one considers the rest of the spectacular timepieces the brand have produced over the years. Released during the golden era of sports watches—the 1970s—the Laureato collection rubs elbows with a couple of giants such as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. Despite the esteemed company, the unique case construction of the Laureato, along with other signature aspects, helped establish the undeniable pedigree the collection holds today. Recently, the maison decided to present a unique and rather unexpected version of the Laureato Absolute, which gives a unique look to the classic design. Let’s take a closer look at the Absolute Light & Fire.

Paint It Red: Absolute Light & Fire

For those well-versed in the silhouette of the Laureato, some similarities stand out: the unique concoction of the octagonal and round-shaped bezel, the integrated strap, and the gorgeously decorated in-house movement. However, the untrained eye will be attracted to the most striking features of this timepiece: the red case and the skeletonised dial.

The red that you see, like the burning embers of a flame, happens to pay homage to the Chinese New Year and is rendered in a new polycrystalline material called YAG. The new innovative material—a compound formed by yttrium garnet and aluminium—allows the case to hold darker and more richly saturated colours. Though similar to sapphire crystal in terms of transparency, the material is ‘hard’ and scratch-resistant. That feature was sought-after by the maison, who were keen on using a colour that, as they describe it, ‘evokes energy, vitality, and prosperity’. Barry Allen (AKA The Flash) would likely agree.

Measuring 44mm in diameter with a height of 11.56mm, the timepiece boasts a commendable wrist presence, which, we’d say, is accentuated by the unobstructed view of the movement

If anything were to take the place of the magnificent clous de Paris dial associated with the Laureato collection, it had to be the view of the calibre GP01800, which offers a 54-hour power reserve

Measuring 44mm in diameter with a height of 11.56mm, the timepiece boasts a commendable wrist presence, which, we’d say, is accentuated by the unobstructed view of the movement. If anything were to take the place of the magnificent clous de Paris dial associated with the Laureato collection, it had to be the view of the calibre GP01800, which offers a minimum power autonomy of 54 hours.

The Light & Fire Burning Inside

First off, as a respectful nod to the case shape of the collection, the mainplate in the movement is octagon-shaped. Apart from that fun little detail, there’s still plenty for you to admire when you take a closer look at the exposed mechanics. A white gold oscillating rotor—bearing the name of the maison—gives life to the calibre. Eleven triangular-adjacent, raised, polished accents double as hour markers, while the logo sits atop the balance wheel at 12. Inside, the finishing is intense. The NAC-treated mainplate and bridges feature sandblasting, brushed detailing, circular satin finishing, and bevelling, with 55 hand-polished inner angles.

First off, as a respectful nod to the case shape of the collection, the mainplate in the movement is octagon-shaped. Apart from that fun little detail, there’s still plenty for you to admire

A white gold oscillating rotor gives life to the calibre. Eleven triangular-adjacent, raised, polished accents double as hour markers, while the logo sits atop the balance wheel at 12. Inside, the finishing is intense

Though fairly large, the hour and minute hands follow the skeletonised motif, with Super-LumiNova to match the dial. Or, shall we say, to match a feeling of ‘energy, vitality, and prosperity’.

With all that on display, it may be easy to miss the small seconds at 10, especially when viewing the watch solely through pictures. All in all, the Light & Fire is a bold new offering, which showcases the brand’s unexpected mastery of working with new materials. (Material masters and fusion artists should make note!)

The NAC-treated mainplate and bridges of the Light & Fire's movement feature sandblasting, brushed detailing, circular satin finishing, and bevelling, with 55 hand-polished inner angles

The watch does a good job of maintaining the DNA of the Laureato collection, even with the missing clous de Paris dial. Limited to just 18 pieces worldwide, the Light & Fire is bound to become a collector’s item sooner rather than later.

Absolutely Laureato

Though the Laureato was launched in 1975, it was only in revived in 2016 after a considerable hiatus. After being introduced as a full-fledged collection in 2017, the world was treated to a sub-collection, the Absolute, where Girard-Perregaux began to introduce sportier and bolder Laureatos, with 44mm cases (thus far anyway).

Among the edgier Laureatos in the Absolute range, the predecessors of the Light & Fire are particularly noteworthy. The Light & Shade, for instance, shares a lot of similarities with the Light & Fire. Perhaps the biggest difference is the case material, with this iteration featuring metallised sapphire crystal. The creation of the case, according to the maison, takes a painstaking 170 hours of intense labour.

With the Absolute sub-collection, Girard-Perregaux show their watchmaking skills with a plethora of executions. A mastery of working with unique materials, a symphony of form and function, and an eye for detail—always constants with Girard-Perregaux—are all values that shine through with this collection. All said and done, it’s a feast for watch collectors and enthusiasts alike. And with the Light & Fire, the Absolute line burns even brighter.