Round-UpUnder A Shell Spell: 10 Magnificent Timepieces With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials

Some of the most exquisite watches you can find use mother-of-pearl for crafting dials that make quite a statement on the wrist. Also known as nacre—originally a 14th century French term—this material is secreted by molluscs and is an integral element found in their inner-shell layer. You’ll be able to spot this easily if you look closely inside their hardened armour. It’s almost a hypnotic sight to gaze at the iridescent pattern formed by this glistening material, whose beauty is further enhanced when light reflects differently off its surface, when seen from different angles. Though as glorious as it looks, mother-of-pearl is extremely brittle in nature, and this makes it quite challenging to work with. Traditionally, mother-of-pearl was used in women’s timepieces since the early 1900s since its texture complemented precious materials such as gold and diamonds that were used in dainty, and mostly jewelled timekeepers. However, with advancements and new techniques, this is not just a material reserved for women’s watches any longer, and brands are leaving no stone unturned in using mother-of-pearl in different hues to break away from the monotony while also combining them with functions such as the elegant moon phase display, a retrograde calendar and even a tourbillon in some instances. Here’s a look at 10 marvellous mother-of-pearl creations that will surely regale you with their au naturel charm.

Baume & Mercier Classima

The Classima collection stands out for its simple, classic design aesthetics with perfectly-balanced proportions. While the case is round—a nod to traditional architecture, Baume & Mercier have given this watch a modern twist with the use of a mother-of-pearl dial featuring a gorgeous moon phase display. The 34mm stainless steel case frames this delicate watch face that’s adorned with diamond-set hour markers that glisten against the gorgeous backdrop, while the blue moon phase disc and the blue hands offer lovely contrast. It is powered by an automatic Swiss movement. The watch is water-resistant to 50m and is delivered on a glossy, blue alligator strap.

While the case is round—a nod to traditional architecture, Baume & Mercier have given this watch a twist with the use of a mother-of-pearl dial featuring a gorgeous moon phase display

The Baume & Mercier Classima is powered by an automatic Swiss movement. It is water-resistant to 50m and is delivered on a glossy, blue alligator strap

Baume & Mercier Classima

₹3,22,000

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Bulgari Serpenti Spiga

The most iconic design associated with the Italian jeweller and watchmaker, the Serpenti really needs no introduction when it comes to high-end watches for women. This Serpenti Spiga was introduced in three new iterations, earlier this year, during the digital edition of LVMH Watch Week, and is truly spectacular as it represents an evolution of the Serpenti style. Crafted with exquisite gold and diamond, and featuring an intricate matelassé pattern, these ornate pieces represent Bulgari’s unique ability to redraw the boundaries of creativity, refinement and expertise. The model featured here is crafted in 18-karat rose gold, with a 35mm case and bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds and a stately crown topped with a single cabochon-cut rubellite. Within this framework lies the elegant white mother-of-pearl dial that features rose gold hour markers, and the hour and minute hands. The uncluttered design adds to the beauty of this dazzling watch that also features a single-row 18-karat rose gold bracelet partially set with 281 brilliant-cut diamonds. It comprises 40 links cast from 40 different moulds, and this is a painstaking process that requires a good number of man-hours to get the perfect piece ready for women who have a taste for the finest things in life.

This Serpenti Spiga model is crafted in 18-karat rose gold, with a 35mm case and bezel set with diamonds. Within this lies a mother-of-pearl dial that features rose gold hour markers and hands

The uncluttered design adds to the beauty of this dazzling watch that also features a single-row, 18-karat rose gold bracelet partially set with 281 brilliant-cut diamonds

BVLGARI Serpenti

₹51,69,000

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Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral

The Manero Peripheral watches for women are beautiful, inside-out. On the surface they showcase a mother-of-pearl dial in white or brown, in a 40mm stainless steel case, topped by a bezel paved with 60 diamonds. This becomes a winning combination since these watches are powered by the in-house manufacture calibre CFB A2050, which was launched in 2016. It offers a central hour and minute display, accompanied by small seconds at six o’clock as well as the date at three o’clock. It draws its energy from a double-sided self-winding mechanism with a peripheral rotor that enables a low case thickness—perfect for the subtle proportions of dress watches. A power reserve of 55 hours and the precise chronometer speed certified by the COSC make the Manero Peripheral an ideal companion for those who will not just settle for anything but the best.

The Manero Peripheral watches showcase a mother-of-pearl dial in white or brown, in a 40mm stainless steel case, topped by a bezel paved with 60 diamonds

The resplendent dial features a central hour and minute display, accompanied by small seconds at six o’clock as well as the date at three o’clock

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous Night & Day

Launched in 2012, the Rendez-Vous collection has become one of the bestselling lines for the brand as it offers a range of stunning dress timepieces coupled with the mechanical chops required for supreme precision. The Dazzling Night & Day models stand out for their bejewelled appeal combined with resplendent mother-of-pearl dials. Available in 36mm white or pink gold with alligator leather straps (in shades of blue or taupe), these timepieces are the epitome of uncompromising attention to detail. The case, bezel and lugs are adorned with two rows of diamonds that form the perfect framework for the mother-of-pearl dials, with a third row of these dazzling stones, set right at the centre of these elegant discs. The interplay of light mixed with the radiance of these diamonds makes the dials look even more iridescent. The day/night indicator moves across a starry sky of mother-of-pearl within an aperture at six o’clock. The sword-shaped hands and the floral numerals complete the artistic symmetry of these timepieces. The Dazzling Rendez-Vous jewelled watches are driven by the automatic in-house calibres 898B and 925A that keep them running for at least 38 hours when fully wound.

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Longines Master Collection

Longines have been producing exceptional timepieces since time immemorial that stand true to their tagline, ‘Elegance is an attitude’. Launched in 2005, the Longines Master Collection, today, is the perfect illustration of this ethos. The watches in this collection exude a unisex vibe and are all powered by automatic movements equipped with special features. The model featured here comes in a decent and comfortable, round stainless steel case measuring 34mm in diameter. It showcases a sublime mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers, complemented by classic, silver hour, minute and seconds hands. There is a beautiful moon phase register at six o’clock that also displays the date with the help of a tiny hand, moving across this counter. This watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement that can store a significant energy reserve of up to 72 hours. Water-resistant to 30m, this stellar timepiece is presented on a blue leather strap that further enhances the beauty of the dial.

This 34mm stainless steel watch from the Master Collection, showcases a sublime mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers, complemented by silver hour, minute and seconds hands

There is a beautiful moon phase register at six o’clock that also displays the date with the help of a tiny hand, moving across this counter

Longines Watchmaking Tradition

₹2,97,000

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Omega DeVille Trésor 36mm

Omega first used the name ‘Trésor’ for its watches back in 1949 for their ultra-thin profiles, crafted in gold, and was a reference to the ‘treasure’ found inside the watch—the legendary 30mm calibre. The collection was relaunched in 2014, in sync with Omega’s tradition of crafting beautiful watches for women. This model featured here is crafted in stainless steel with a case measuring 36mm in diameter with a height of only 8.85mm, thereby minimising the thickness. The design is modern and suited for the contemporary individual with an independent mindset. The case also features diamond paving that curves along each side, without looking too over-the-top, and a single diamond set within the crown, polished with red HyCeram—a hybrid ceramic compound with more durability. However, it’s the dial that takes centre stage here, crafted in mother-of-pearl, with transferred Roman numerals and elegant blackened hands. The nacre used by Omega is always of top quality and glistens even more as light hits it at different viewing angles. This watch is brought to life by calibre 4061—locked inside a special mirrored caseback with their signature pattern that the brand call ‘Her time’. Water-resistant to 30m, it is presented on a black fabric strap.

The Omega DeVille Trésor's dial is crafted in mother-of-pearl, with transferred Roman numerals and elegant blackened hands. The nacre used by the brand is always of top quality and glistens even more as light hits it at different viewing angles

Parmigiani Kalpa Piccola Anniversaire

Parmigiani introduced these Kalpa Piccola models to mark their 20th anniversary in 2016. For this, they revisited the Kalpa Piccola—the first women’s watch in its collection, featuring the tonneau shape. The uniqueness of the Kalpa Piccola Anniversaire models lie in the solid gold quartz movement, tucked away in a stainless steel case, flanked by a total of 46 diamonds, on the left and right sides of the bezel. Here, these two models feature mother-of-pearl dials in grey and pink, respectively, with guilloche work. On display are only the hour and minute hands, the brand logo at six o’clock, and the single diamond hour marker at the 12 o’clock position. Their radiance is enhanced by the visual effect of depth created by the decoration. Visible through the caseback, the quartz movement crafted entirely in rose gold reveals the main plate, bridges and gears—decorated with the highest standards that are characteristic of fine watchmaking. The central bridge mirrors the shape of a typical lug found in Parmigiani watches, studded with three jewels. Water-resistant to 30m, the Kalpa Piccola Anniversaire timepieces are mounted on matching steel bracelets with ergonomic folding clasps, and each model is limited to 96 pieces only

To mark the 20th anniversary of the brand in 2016, Parmigiani revisited the Kalpa Piccola—the first women’s watch in its collection featuring the iconic tonneau or barrel-shaped case

₹13,90,000

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The Parmigiani Kalpa Piccola Anniversaire features a mother-of-pearl dial in options of grey or pink, with guilloche work in a wave-like pattern

₹13,90,000

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On display are only the hour and minute hands, the brand emblem at six o’clock, and the only diamond-marked hour at 12 o’clock

₹13,90,000

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Each model is limited to 96 pieces only, and the radiance of the dials is enhanced by the visual effect of depth created by the elaborate decoration

₹13,90,000

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Rado True Thinline

First introduced in 2011, the Rado True Thinline watches follow the principles of minimalism, and are crafted in high-tech ceramic. These quartz watches are the brand’s slimmest and the first to feature the groundbreaking mono-bloc case. The monochromatic design is a contemporary take on the archetypal wristwatch silhouette. The main driving force here is achieving maximum thinness in a watch—here the thickness of the case is less than 5mm. The model featured here is inspired by nature and Rado’s partnership with the Grandi Giardini Italiani—an association of major gardens in Italy. The True Thinline Nature collection comprises watches in three hues that represent earth, water and leaves. Here, the blue mother-of-pearl looks exotic and the dial is absolutely uncluttered with just slim hands and indexes. Water-resistant to 30m, it is presented on a ceramic bracelet in a pleasant blue shade.

TAG Heuer Carrera Quartz

Think motor sport, think TAG Heuer! The brand is known for its association with motor racing and chronographs used for timing rallies. Its popular Carrera collection seeks inspiration from the stories behind the prestigious but highly dangerous Carrera Panamericana race held between 1950 and 1954. While the older models have boasted generous dimensions, replete with complications, the recent Carrera models have a more relaxed, sporty-chic vibe and are not shying away from using mother-of-pearl dials, presented on vibrant leather straps. This elegant and glamorous timepiece featured here comes in a 36mm stainless steel case with a solid, closed caseback, which guarantee water resistance up to 100m. The smooth lugs are parallel and elongated, with slightly curved lines. Here, the alluring mother-of-pearl dial features silver-toned hands, indexes and a date window at three o’clock. The shimmering watch face, protected by curved sapphire crystal, stands out against the perfect contrast offered by the glossy, purple leather strap.

This timepiece comes in a 36mm stainless steel case with a closed caseback, which guarantee water resistance up to 100m. The smooth lugs are elongated with slightly curved lines

Here, the alluring mother-of-pearl dial features silver-toned hands, indexes and a date window at three o’clock. The shimmering watch face is protected by a curved sapphire crystal

TAG Heuer Carrera

₹2,39,700

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Tissot Quickster NATO 42mm

The Tissot Quickster is essentially a range of modern sports watches, appealing to for the young generation of watch enthusiasts. The design of the watch’s bezel offers a greater opening on the dial, which looks outstanding, crafted in radiant mother-of-pearl with basic three-hand timekeeping function along with a date aperture positioned at six o’clock. The 40mm rose gold-tone, stainless steel case offers perfect proportions for the watch to be worn by both men and women. It is topped by a rose gold-tone bezel with minutes in relief, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The Tissot Quickster is powered by an ultra-precise Swiss quartz movement, is water-resistant to 100m and is attached to a striped NATO band, fitted with a tang clasp.

Tissot T-Sport

₹42,000

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