FeaturePresenting the Monocoque Dials of Jacob & Co. Epic X Watches

By the time Jacob & Co unveiled their Epic X collection in 2015, the American brand’s bejewelled timepieces had earned a cult-ish status among celebrities in the music and film industry, and also for the unique Five Time Zone watch. Akin to corporate downsizing, Epic X models fall under the category of monocoque (French for ‘single shell’, implying chassis). They strip off the brand’s usual ‘decorative shenanigans’ (Jacob & Co dials come overloaded with diamonds to even an operational miniature roulette wheel) plus chunks from the case and caseback, to only retain and expose the parts that run the wristwatch—the movement and internals. Taking off these extra elements drastically reduces the price of these Epic X models, now posited as the brand’s entry-level sport watch. Still eccentric-looking, this more accessible robust Jacob & Co model then is a win-win for patrons.

Watches classified as monocoque pose a big challenge for watchmakers. These skeletal models offer a peek of the movement inside. Without the refuge of dials, sub-dials, hour markers, and casebacks, the increased transparency leaves the models with no chance to “razzle dazzle ’em and they’ll never catch wise” like in the Chicago (2001) soundtrack. Even tiny imperfections in the exposed movement and internals, now directly beneath the sapphire crystal, appear magnified. On the other hand, one doesn’t need to a watch expert to open the caseback and gauge what parts are moving slower than usual, need winding up or have stopped altogether due to the open-worked display.

Epic X versions in stainless steel or titanium come with or without an inner neoralithe inner ring

Redolent of crab legs, the model's lugs firmly lock down the bezel and unite the bridges, providing symmetry and ease of viewing the dial

Jacob & Co. Epic X Shop The Collection

Epic X versions in stainless steel or titanium have minor design tweaks to differentiate them from the other. For instance, they come with or without a diamond-studded bezel, have or don’t have an inner neoralithe inner ring, and are attached to either a see-through honeycomb patterned rubber strap or a steel bracelet. One version is entirely in black—from its DLC-case to its attached rubber strap. The rose gold option costs slightly more, which comes with a black rubber strap. Most of the models sport a case that is 44mm in diameter, 13.05mm thick and offers a 100m water resistance. These entry-level models then are also the brand’s slimmest watches.

Beauty Of Monocoque

Like most skeletal watches, the Epic X dials give out the illusion of a lot going on. One can easily spot the movement’s various parts such as the bridges, balance spring and wheels, and mainspring barrel. There’s the barrel at 12 o’clock and barrel wheel at six o’clock. Even the metal screws and purple-hued 21 jewels are visible. The models run on JCAM02, a manual-winding skeleton calibre made from an impressive 158 parts. It functions at 28,800 vph and offers 48-hour power reserve.

The Epic X models run on JCAM02, a manual-winding skeleton calibre made from an impressive 158 parts

One can easily spot the movement’s various parts such as the bridges, balance springs and wheels, and mainspring barrels

Jacob & Co. Epic X Shop The Collection

Patterns such as clou de Paris guilloche, vertical graining, perlage, and sandblasting add some drama to the surface look and texture. Offering the right contrast are the skeleton hour and minute hands. There is no a sweeping seconds hand. Another highlight: the lugs allude to an ‘X’ formation. Redolent of crab legs, these lugs firmly lock down the bezel and unite the bridges, providing symmetry and ease of viewing the dial.