ReviewA Succession In Green: H. Moser & Cie. Introduces The New Streamliner Centre Seconds
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds is a pared-down, time-only version of the manufacture’s much talked-about Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, and is one of the most significant releases from the brand this year
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The year 2020 has been an exceptionally exciting one for H. Moser & Cie. and even more so for its patrons. From watches made in collaboration with MB&F that were a creative cocktail of design and engineering, to the technological masterpiece that was the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, H. Moser & Cie. really didn’t hold back. Continuing the streak of hits, the independent Swiss watchmaking brand—best known for their minimalist design—has released a pared-down, time-only version—the first in the new Streamliner collection with the brand’s characteristic fumé dial. Meet the new Streamliner Centre Seconds.
The Streamliner Evolves
What seemed like a one-off release by the brand now seems to be evolving into a collection with the launch of the Streamliner Centre Seconds. And this is exciting news. The Streamliner Flyback Chrono was a pivotal launch for the brand in January this year, as it showcased a bunch of firsts for Moser—it was their first automatic chronograph, as well as their first watch with an integrated steel bracelet, and of course, a showcase of that astonishing design language. But it also was a bit exotic, with its highly sophisticated movement and its hidden rotor that allowed you to see the HMC 902 in all its glory. This new Centre Seconds, however, feels more accessible. It feels more like an everyday watch rather than a novelty piece. And having such a watch in a new collection is extremely important as it becomes relevant to many more people, garnering wider appeal.
Read more about the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic here
In a hotly-contested market of stainless steel integrated bracelet sports watches that are saturated with derivative designs, the Streamliner manages to stand apart by a good mile. The watch is inspired by the aerodynamically streamlined locomotives of the 30s, which were characterised by large, rounded panels that were smooth and lacked any sort of ornamentation. Described as ‘Art Deco on the move’, the Streamliner ‘movement’ celebrated the aerodynamic revolution and the sleek designs made their way onto trains, ocean liners, aeroplanes, cars and even diners. The three-hand Streamliner is a careful and intricate study of the Streamline Moderne period and the final product is a watch unlike any other.
Click here to read more about the ways in which art deco design translates to watchmaking
A Luxury Sports Watch Like No Other
With a 40mm case, 120m water resistance and an integrated bracelet, it is clear that H. Moser & Cie. intend to appeal to the busy market of luxury sport watches. But instead of conforming to clichés, they seem to be going about it their own way. The stainless steel rounded cushion-shaped case is gently cambered and features a matte, satin-brushed finish. The height of the case is 11.8mm with the glass. These dimensions are perfect for virtually any wrist thrown at it. And the fact that the bracelet is integrated means that there are no lugs, leading to a better fit. The bracelet itself is an extremely complex construction. All the links of the bracelet are articulated and their gentle wave-like pattern has a vertical-brushed finish and a polished bevel. What it leads to is a very organic appearance of interlocking scales. It’s not a stretch when I say that the bracelet of this watch will grab more attention than the dial or the case. But what makes it all the more special is that it wears as brilliantly as it looks. It is secured by a folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo.
Another cliché when it comes to luxury steel sports watches is going with blue for the dial. This is a colourway that has been done to death. H. Moser & Cie. however, went looking for a different hue and came out with what they call ‘matrix green’—a shade of green you won’t really see much of in watchmaking. Using Moser’s trademark fumé dial technique, the sunburst green dial is lighter in the centre and gradually darkens towards the periphery. Depending on the light that falls on it, the hues you see vary from a deep bottle green to a soft olive. The flat hour, minute and central seconds hands are made from two sections and feature Globolight inserts, an innovative ceramic-based material that contains Super-LumiNova. In addition to aiding readability in the dark, these luminous blocks also add dimension to the dial.
Ticking Behind The ‘Matrix Green’: The Automatic HMC 200
Inside the Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds is the HMC 200. With 27 jewels and a significant minimum power reserve of 72 hours, this is an automatic movement suitable for everyday use. The bi-directional pawl-winding system assures the watch gets wound more quickly. The self-winding movement is equipped with a solid 18-karat gold rotor and is visible thanks to the sapphire crystal caseback. The level of finish is high, as is to be expected, with the characteristic Moser double Geneva stripes clearly visible on the bridge.
Final Words
There really is nothing like the Streamliner Centre Seconds in the market right now. What it means is that Moser has managed to carve a niche in a saturated and busy market, and it did so in the usual quirky, fun yet super-refined Moser way. The watch looks great, ticks well, and wears even better. The launch of the Streamliner Centre Seconds means that the waters tested by the original Streamliner in January was successful, and this new launch marks a brand new direction for Moser’s image.
