FeatureThe Allure Of Art Deco: How The Movement’s Influence Translates Onto Watch Design

Art imitates life, and watchmaking is a case that’s no different. Just like artists, the world around them has influenced watchmakers since time immemorial. Though timekeeping began as a functional exercise, it evolved into so much more than that. Timekeepers became precious accessories, statement pieces and objets d’art. Ateliers began looking around for inspiration and, since the 1920s, inspiration has been boundless, thanks to one trailblazing art movement that continues to influence artists and designers to this day.

Often referred to as the biggest influence on watchmaking, the Art Deco movement originated in the 1920s, right after World War I (1914–18). Known as the ‘Roaring Twenties’, this period saw the euphoria of a post-war society, ready to live life large. The art world was no different, becoming more explorative and rather geometrical. This form of art popped out from canvases, sculptures and sketchbooks onto everyday articles—everything from wallpapers, lamps and furniture to clocks and watches. The Art Deco movement represented modernism and elegance through designs that were sleek and sophisticated rather than extravagant. Now, a century later, art deco design is making a resurgence, especially in the watchmaking world. We saw a glimpse of this resurgence during the virtual edition of Watches & Wonders 2020.

Simplicity has been the keyword of the movement, and watchmakers have truly taken that to heart. Watches that have been influenced by this movement of symmetry and minimalism have certain common characteristics across the board—such as a functional design that looks effortlessly luxurious, with vintage-inspired leanings. Let’s explore how this noteworthy movement has influenced the design codes of watchmaking.

On A Case-By-Case Basis

Geometric designs, which were the hallmark of the Art Deco era, lend themselves really well to watchmaking. And one brand that has used the eponymous art movement’s tenets with élan is Jaeger-LeCoultre. One particular collection, which was inspired by the aesthetics of art deco and has also stood the test of time has been the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, with its rectangle case that looks sleek on the wrist.

An iconic watch that’s possibly the best representative of the Art Deco movement is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Large Duoface

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The 18-karat gold case, with its signature symmetrical lines and a guilloche-decorated dial, makes a luxurious statement. It can be flipped over the reveal a second dial

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The grey-coloured second dial allows one to keep track of the second time zone. Attached is black alligator leather strap, which keeps things simple

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The first Reverso debuted in 1931, when the art deco scene was still fresh and vibrant. With a history steeped in the colonial era when British officers were stationed in India, the Reverso was created to provide polo players with a rugged watch that could take a thrashing, since it could be reversed. The Classic Large Duoface is a great example of a luxurious watch that’s also minimalist and subdued. Unlike its historical predecessor, which has a solid caseback to protect the main dial, this watch has a secondary dial that can be seen when one flips the case over. The 18-karat rose gold case, with its signature geometrical lines and gadroon-framing, is as art deco as can be. The black leather strap simply adds to the minimalism, beautifully complementing the gold case.

The Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date and Moon Phase, with its rectangular case and applied Arabic numerals, is inspired by the very first Vintage 1945 timepiece. Minimal and elegant, the design of this watch is sure to appeal to appreciators of the Art Deco era

Another commendable mention is the Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date and Moon Phase timepiece. Its 36.1mm by 35.25mm rectangular case, with slightly rounded edges, is emblematic of the symmetry that the Art Deco movement endeavoured to uphold. The dial is clean and minimalist, with a moon phase display at six o’clock housed within the small seconds sub-dial, along with a date indication at 12.

The art deco rectangular form has a lease of life when it comes to women’s watches too, and the Longines DolceVita is a spectacular example of the same. Though harking back to a bygone era, Longines’ fresh take wins because of its contemporary rendition, especially if you go to see the blue alligator leather strap attached to the elegant case with its softened edges. The silver dial, which features a nuanced flinqué pattern, even presents Roman numerals and a chapter ring designed to reflect art deco’s geometry and symmetry, along with blued steel hands. The watch becomes a fine example of the art deco code that’s been reinterpreted to suit our modern times.

Embodying Vintage Inspirations

Rectangular cases aren’t the only cases shapes that exude a vintage charm. Oval cases look absolutely stunning and give one’s wrist a retro vibe that’s truly groovy. Perfectly wrapping around narrow wrists, oval case shapes set the tone for what some vintage ladies’ watches looked like in the past. The many iterations of Frederique Constant’s Art Déco collection embody these vintage inspirations with élan. The watches in the collection, with oval stainless steel cases, house ethereal mother-of-pearl dials in breathtaking black, stark white or gorgeous blue, with guilloche finishes at their centre—a testament to superior craftsmanship. While the 2018 collection has Roman numerals on the dial indicating hours, the 2019 editions are luxurious with Roman numerals at the three, six, nine and 12 o’clock positions, and eight set diamonds denoting the rest of the hours.

These iterations of the vintage-inspired Frederique Constant Art Déco collection are crafted with aesthetically pleasing oval dials, giving the watches a more antiquated appeal

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One of the most appealing members of the 2018 collection, this variant has a stunning black dial and presents Roman numerals. The stainless steel bracelet gives it a lovely appeal

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Elegant and sophisticated, this collection epitomises symmetry and simplicity. Seen here is a member with a stark white mother-of-pearl dial with eight set diamonds

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The deep blue mother-of-pearl dial looks absolutely stunning against the silver hue of the comfortable stainless steel strap

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Many art deco-inspired watches exemplify vintage design aesthetics. One look at these vintage watches, and you’d think that you’ve gone back in time! A brand that has taken this cue and delivered big is Panerai, best known for its sporty dive watches. Here, the brand takes inspiration from its own historical archives for an art deco-inspired piece, which has been admired by many. Back when Officine Panerai did not even exist, Giovanni Panerai, the founder of the brand, had a watchmaker’s shop in Florence, which was later moved to its current location and named Orologeria Svizzera. Not only did the shop sell and repair pocket watches, but also pendulum clocks and table clocks. According to the brand, it is the dial of such a pendulum clock from the 1940s that inspired the dial of the Radiomir 1940 Acciaio.

Inspired by the dial of a pendulum clock from the 1940s, the Panerai Radiomir’s vintage-inspired black dial, with its beige Arabic numerals etched inside a railway track, has a charm of its own

The beefy 47mm case houses a very vintage-looking dial. A glance at the black dial’s retro guise wouldn’t give it away as a Panerai one bit, despite the iconic cushion-shaped case! The beige Arabic numerals, etched inside a railway track denoting minutes, have an antiquated font—seen even in the brand and collection names below 12 o’. Spear-shaped hands—another departure from Panerai’s design scheme—point to the time. The brown leather strap melds with the overall vintage theme beautifully.

The Evolution Of Art Deco Into Steampunk Spectacles

An art nouveau style that has gained popularity over the last few years is one that seamlessly melds the past and present, becoming the perfect bridge between art deco and futurist design—steampunk. Steampunk is a style of design that combines historical elements (such as steam-powered machinery, where the style’s name originates from) with features that are inspired by the world of science fiction. Steampunk-inspired design pieces look almost surreal and out of place, while grabbing attention like no other decorative style. The horological world was quick to take note of this emerging style and hopped on the steam-powered locomotive to present some wonders for the wrist.

A great example of this design style is the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph. The initial idea was to create a watch with an integrated bracelet, a departure from H. Moser & Cie’s usual aesthetic. This took the design team back to the 1920s and 30s when the Art Deco era was flourishing and the iconic streamliner trains had just begun plying. The 1936 Mercury streamliner, in particular, and its aerodynamic curves, piqued the team’s interest leading to the construction of this watch that is quite the head-turner. What’s more, is that this is an absolutely unconventional display for a chronograph.

To read more about the iconic H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, click here

Fans of the art deco style have a lot to rejoice with the Urwerk UR-105 CT Streamliner, where the past and the present meld into quite the stunning timepiece. Evidently very art deco in its design code, with its chunky octagonal case, which measures 53mm by 39.5mm, this watch is evocative of ‘gleaming’ subway trains and art deco-style buildings such as the Empire State, Chrysler and Comcast buildings. Co-founders took inspiration from the trip they took to New York more than two decades ago. The city has become the poster child of art deco since many of its iconic buildings are inspired by this prolific art movement.

The Urwerk UR-105 CT Streamliner presents a catch on top of the case made of titanium and mirror-polished steel, which can be slid, opening it up like the hood of a car, to reveal the inner mechanism of this steampunk-inspired watch—the UR 5.03 with the self-winding system.

It’s a little ironic how an art movement that can easily be described as ‘dated’ can also be the inspiration behind a slew of refreshing timepieces. But that’s just how art works, doesn’t it? It stirs the soul, pulls at the heart and bequeaths you with the ability to see everything with a fresh pair of eyes.

To read about other art-inspired watches that have taken cues from the art world, follow this link