FeatureBlurred Lines: The Age Of Gender-Neutral Timepieces
In the 21st century, do we still need separate watches for men and women? Shouldn’t a timepiece have a more universal appeal rather than adopting a gender-based approach? Let’s find out how brands are shattering stereotypes by offering a mix of edgy, unisex timepieces to a new generation of horology enthusiasts
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In a recent Instagram post, Bollywood actor, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, who also shares a long-standing association with Swiss watch manufacturer, Longines was spotted wearing a 41mm, dual-tone Hydroconquest with an anthracite grey dial. The ambassador for ‘elegance’ has never shied away from experimenting with her sartorial choices—be it amping up the drama on the Cannes red carpet or even making public appearances for the St-Imier-based watch brand at public events. But in terms of her watch wardrobe, Ash (as she’s fondly called) has mostly opted for the more petite iterations of the Dolce Vita line or the Le Grande Classique watches; with the Conquest Classic being the most sporty version to have graced her wrist. So, what was different about this look? To begin with it exuded a more powerful imagery with the diva making a strong statement in the sturdy timepiece, paired with a sharp pantsuit. The Hydroconquest has never been outrightly promoted as a women’s watch; in fact it’s always been associated as a dive watch for men. But the global star is not the only one ditching the dainty timekeepers for more pronounced pieces that have for long been only coveted by men.
Florentine-based watchmaker, Panerai recently signed on Chinese actor, Dilraba Dilmurat as their first female global brand ambassador. The luxury watch manufacturer issued an official statement with her picture sporting a glossy, royal blue Piccolo Due 38mm timepiece—Panerai’s first collection specifically dedicated to women. While they have always stood out for their distinct ‘sandwich’ dials and generous case sizes ranging between 42mm and 45mm, they have always been perceived as a ‘masculine’ brand. But for the ladies, they have brought down the measurements, however, not too drastically. One look at this watch, and it strikes as the perfect embodiment of a gender-fluid or gender-neutral watch that will look as striking on a man’s wrist as it does on Dilmurat’s petite frame. Also, the versatility of this watch is an added advantage for the wearer.
On bringing Dilmurat onboard, Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Panerai says, “As a bold and confident individual, her spirit is in line with Panerai’s brand philosophy. She represents China’s contemporary women who are bold and forward-thinking. We warmly welcome her and look forward to exploring the future with her.” The key words to note here are: contemporary and bold—qualities that define the gender fluidity concept of the 21st century. While wrist watches were initially worn by women as ‘wristlets’ or secret timekeeper that gave a semblance of ‘carrying time’ on one’s wrist, they were always looked upon as being an unfavorable choice for men, since they didn’t conform to the ‘masculine’ notions of the society. But this changed with the subsequent World Wars, where more and more high-end luxury watchmakers started producing oversized wristwatches to accompany soldiers in the war zone… and with that the pendulum swung the other way, in favour of appeasing them, and once again, women were relegated to the shadows.
Gender Fluidity And Watchmaking
While it’s easy to confuse gender-neutral fashion with androgyny, the latter is an important subset of blurring the lines between the two sexes. Women’s fashion has borrowed elements from men’s lines and perhaps the best example would be Coco Chanel pioneering pants for the independent, modern women in the 1920s, for whom comfort trumped the elaborate and often submissive trappings of Victorian clothing. And she always propagated the idea that ‘a person should express themselves on how they feel, and not how their gender supposedly tells them to feel.’ Watchmaking has also undergone several transitions when it comes to embracing gender neutrality in all its being. While there was a time when women had to settle for bijoux timepieces, serving more as ornaments and not necessarily as precise timekeeping instruments, this eventually gave way to companies crafting watches with quartz movements in a bid to offer more options with some gravitas. But these, too, conformed to notions of being small in size or they were merely pared-down versions of existing men’s lines. However, over the last few years, one witnessed a surge in women donning men’s timepieces, which established the fact that they were ready to go beyond the restrictive 28mm for their watches, and they wanted the real deal—a high-end mechanical movement to boot.
This was also evident in this year’s digital edition of Watches and Wonders, where Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)—the most complicated Reverso ever created. Despite the complexity, CEO Catherine Reiner pointed out during the digital presentation that, “it’s the most user-friendly and also one of the easiest to wear.” Reiner also added, “Ladies, too, can wear the Reverso Quadriptyque as there are no specifics when it comes to complications for women.” And we couldn’t agree more since the legendary Reverso can be worn by both genders because the only thing that one needs is a big personality to carry off such an icon.
Even Hublot’s CEO, Ricardo Guadalupe emphasises on the need of creating watches for ‘everyone’ rather than a particular gender. During the online edition of LVMH Watch Week in January, this year, Hublot wowed the audience with a rich reserve of offerings that included the edgy Richard Orlinski timepieces, the vibrant Big Bang Click watches and the unique Takashi Murakami piece. The brand that was once associated with robust watches for men, has been relentlessly focusing their radar on the women’s segment, and according to Guadalupe, “Ladies’ watches represent about 23 percent of our sales but we see more potential in this segment, and would like to increase it to even 35 percent, one day,” he told The Watch Guide in an interview earlier this year. “We have been constantly trying to create watches that appeal to and speak differently to women. In the case of the Richard Orlinski pieces that measure 40mm—a more unisex size—we are catering to women, who may not prefer very dainty watches. And 80 percent of these watches are sold to women,” he explained.
Though unisex watches may not be entirely new, the importance being given to designing collections around this theme are surprisingly fresh and innovative. Also, it’s not just about women wearing men’s watches but it goes beyond that realm. It even works the other way round, say, if a man wants to wear a dainty dazzler or a petite, 26mm watch. This concept allows one to embrace that freedom and express oneself uninhibitedly. Let’s explore a few categories that best serve the gender-neutral cause.
Minimalism Speaks Volumes
It’s not surprising that minimalism has made inroads into this sphere as well. After all, less is more, right? And perhaps clearing the clutter always helps conveying the message in a more succinct manner. Recently Rado launched their newest addition to the True Square Collection, the True Square ‘Over the Abyss’ watch. A design collaboration with New Delhi artist duo Jiten Thukral and Sumir Tagra, the watch questions the temporality of individuals and highlights the importance of our connection with others. The design features Rado’s iconic square case—an homage to the brand’s iconic shape from the 70s. The 38mm watch is crafted in matt blue, high-tech ceramic and the dial captivates with its representation of different time zones, symbolised by 37 hands—without looking cluttered—painted in a gradation of colours ranging from blue to pink, resembling fireworks right in the middle of the dial. Two discrete but mighty Super-LumiNova dots indicate the local time. According to the brand, the watch aims to connect people through a universal timepiece rather than segregating according to particular categories.
Then there is the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds watch that displays a mysterious aura, thanks to its deep colour codes. The elegant timepiece stands out for its minimalistic design with a clean display, set in a 38mm steel case with a diamond-set bezel. The rich burgundy fumé dial looks striking with a sun-brushed finish. The watch is powered by an automatic manufacture movement, which supplies a power reserve of 72 hours.
Complications: Not Just For Men
This one is for those fond of complex artistry on their wrists. For ages, complications have been perceived to be more of a manly pursuit rather than allowing women also to weigh in with their choices. From chunky chronographs and high-speed tourbillons to complex perpetual calendars and world timers; watchmakers have mostly churned out timepieces with these features for men. But there are certain exceptions like the Arnold & Son Nebula that stand out as one of the most striking skeleton watches in the brand’s repertoire. This movement structure consists of bridges converging from the outside of the dial towards the centre, like perfectly symmetrical rays. Available in 18-karat rose gold, in a sleek case measuring 41.5mm, the watch boasts classical design codes, and is extremely comfortable on the wrist, even for women. One can also see the double mainspring barrel at the top, which is responsible for the watch’s generous 90-hour power reserve.
Universal Appeal
Gender-neutral watches also have a universal appeal, and cannot be contained in stereotypical silos. Such is the case of the Zenith Defy Classic timepieces where style and substance come together seamlessly, marking the first time the ultra-hard and integrally coloured material makes its way to the Defy Classic collection. The 41mm, skeletonised pieces are offered in either blue, black or white ceramic, and constitute an intriguing display of micro-mechanics accentuated by monochromatic tones, paired with the superlative performance that is synonymous with Zenith’s in-house calibres. This trio is definitely aimed to enthrall the style-conscious urbanite. Even their Pilot’s watches, of late, are becoming a huge hit with the women, which were once marketed and sold only to men owing to their ‘oversized’ proportions.
Gems For Everyone
Who says that bejewelled delights are only the prerogative of women? This year at Watches & Wonders, Zenith, inched towards closing the gap that segregates men’s and women’s timepieces with the launch of their Defy 21 Spectrum series. It consists of colourful, 44mm chronographs studded with precious gemstones. Available in options of purple, green, blue, yellow and black, with bezels studded with stones in the same hue, these watches are strong on the design aspect while also offering extreme precision, thanks to the El Primero 9004 movement that beats at 36,000vph offering a power reserve of 50 hours.
Recently, even Hublot launched the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow, a 43mm, high-jewellery piece crafted in either King Gold or white gold, and it is the brand’s unique take on celebrating all colours of the rainbow. The watch contains bright red rubies, fuchsia pink sapphires, ultraviolet amethysts, topaz in Klein blue, leaf-green tsavorites, lemon yellow sapphires and bright orange sapphires.
Colours For All Seasons
Just like jewels are for everyone, who says that men have to stick to boring, neutral shades? The advantage with unisex watches is that they offer a plethora of colours to the customers, and one is almost spoilt for choice. Just like the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool watch with a turquoise dial, unveiled at this year’s digital edition of Watches and Wonders. Replete with a matching fabric strap in the same hue, the watch strikes a fine balance between classic and contemporary codes. Conventionally, this wouldn’t have been a go-to choice for men but the times are definitely changing. And if you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, then you can also opt for the Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet powered by the brand’s revolutionary 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 21 chronograph calibre, fitted inside a 44mm titanium case, beating at a frequency of 50Hz. A vibrant violet strap complements the design features of this edgy timepiece.
Sporty Chic Pursuits
The human spirit has always craved adventure to test the limits of resilience in the face of challenges. Sporting activities allow people to indulge in such pursuits, where endurance and grit are important factors at play. However, watches meant for such activities have by far been mostly associated with men and have failed to include women. However, this year was another reminder that things are taking a positive turn where this aspect is concerned. TAG Heuer’s new Aquaracer Professional 300 watches are the perfect example when it comes to style-conscious horology lovers who push their limits, whether on land or at sea, and pays homage to the original icon launched four decades ago. The brand launched seven versions—four measuring 43mm, and three sized at 36mm. However there are no demarcations in terms of gender, and TAG Heuer is extremely clear about offering the ‘right fit’ to a new generation of urban explorers.
Athleisure: Shining The Spotlight On Unisex Watches
This is a trend that has caught on in the last couple of years, and is an important factor defining unisex trends whether in fashion or haute horlogerie. From a fashion point of view it is defined as clothing that’s designed for workouts and other athletic activities, but not limited to being worn at the gym or while exercising. Similarly, with watches it includes a more lifestyle-oriented approach rather than merely being tools crafted for professionals. While Omega’s Seamaster launched in 1948 paved the way for the brand’s iconic dive timers, over the years it has also become part of a portfolio of athletic timepieces aimed at people who may not be indulging in heavy-duty sports or outdoor activity. Just like the Seamaster Planet Ocean ‘Tokyo 2020’ Limited Edition in all white, presented on a matching leather strap. Limited to 2,020 pieces, this 39.5mm, stainless steel timepiece is a superb tribute to Omega’s role as the official timekeeper of the recently-concluded Olympic Games held in Tokyo. This is a watch that can be worn comfortably by both genders and is for people who are inclined towards sporty-yet-cool designs.
Evolution Of Classic Timekeepers
In haute horlogerie, the brand legacy is of supreme importance. However, for far too long brands that command high stakes at the table have been engaged in churning out watches for men, while women have had to do with smaller, quartz offerings from them, and some had not even tapped into that segment. Realising the value of moving with the times, these brands have upped their game, and adapted to be recognised as truly inclusive in the 21st century. Brands like Breitling, which have been producing professional tools or chronographs for men, are now targeting the ladies, with new interpretations of their collections, such as last year’s Navitimer for women. And not stopping at this, they have even opened doors to their other collections such as the Avenger and Chronomat to the ladies, where they are promoting 44mm aviation instruments for professionals, irrespective of their gender.
Girard-Perregaux is another brand which rose to fame in 1975 with its own version of a quartz sports watch in steel—the Laureato, which has now become the brand’s highest-selling collection. Distinct for its sporty-chic aesthetic the watch, however was only available in larger sizes for men, and it was in 2016 that Girard-Perregaux introduced a 34mm, pared-down version of the original for women. But now, the brand are offering it as a unisex watch sized at 38mm, keeping up with the gender-fluid norms.
Another brand that’s adapted well to shattering stereotypes when it comes to men and women’s watches is IWC. Though an out-and-out masculine brand, which focused on time-measuring instruments for men (even their tagline for the longest time was: engineered for men), IWC is going all out with promoting gender neutrality. Their recent campaigns are testimony to the fact where robust, 41mm pilot’s watches have been worn by both the sexes. One can see the newly-inducted professional racing driver Laura Kraihamer as well as Lewis Hamilton donning the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph with a bright green dial in their new campaign, with the idea to rise above gender and create a community of people with common goals.
Gender neutrality in haute horlogerie is a small but an important step towards supporting other larger causes in society that seek inclusivity for all genders. Whether it’s women pushing for pay parity across sectors or even non-binary individuals fighting for acceptance. And watch brands are taking note for unleashing change, one timepiece at a time!
Shop The Story
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Longines HydroConquest
L3.781.3.78.7
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Q3978430
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Rado True Square
R27070202
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H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour
1200-1208
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Arnold & Son Nebula
1NEAR.S01A.C123A
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H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer
3200-1214
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TAG Heuer Aquaracer
WBP201B.BA0632
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TAG Heuer Aquaracer
WBP201A.BA0632
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TAG Heuer Aquaracer
WBP201C.BA0632
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TAG Heuer Aquaracer
WBP231D.BA0626
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TAG Heuer Aquaracer
WBP231C.BA0626
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Omega Seamaster
522.33.40.20.04.001
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Breitling Avenger
A13385101B1A1
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Girard-Perregaux Laureato
81005-52-132-52A
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IWC Pilot’s Watches
IW388104
