ReviewKick Into High Gear With Breitling’s Top Time B01 Deus And Triumph Chronographs
Breitling continue their association with Australian motorcycle and surf outfitter, Deus Ex Machina and British motorcycle manufacturer Triumph to release two new models of their famed Top Time racing chronographs—now equipped with the supremely-engineered manufacture B01 movement
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It was in 1964 that Breitling came up with the idea of getting a young generation of watch enthusiasts hooked on to the chronograph. The brand wanted this timing device to become more of a ‘way of life’ than simply remain restricted to a dull ‘tool watch’ worn by the previous generation, bound by restrictions when it came to availability of options and also the societal norms—where classical designs reigned supreme. That’s when Breitling shook things up with the Top Time model—an affordable chronograph with clean and elegant lines, a neat dial, and a timekeeper that packed in exceptional quality and precision—a perfect device for young people who loved to keep up with the times. In fact, the brand’s focus was so clear with the key messaging that even some of their advertisements from back in the day had the tagline: The Chronograph is no longer a specialist’s timepiece. It has become the watch for younger people.
And such was their focus on bringing in a fresh perspective on timekeeping that even the collection’s name was kept short and catchy to resonate with a younger audience; highlighting its modern persona, which characterised the freewheeling spirit of that era. Over the years, this collection has continued to keep up with the ever-changing demands of horophiles all over the world, and has become quite popular for its interesting collaborations with the motoring and biking world. While recently Breitling enthralled us with their Top Time capsule collection of vibrant watches, in association with Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette, and Shelby Cobra; they have also dropped two ultra-cool timepieces in partnership with Deus Ex Machina and Triumph Motorcycles—a treat for all motorheads. These two chronographs are a slight deviation from Top Time’s usual colour scheme of bright hues and feature bicoloured 41mm timepieces crafted in stainless steel. These new watches build on the success of the brand’s past collaborations with Deus Ex Machina and Triumph Motorcycles, and now the icing on the cake is that these chronographs are equipped with the remarkable B01 manufacture movement. “These co-branded Top Time watches are for those who are as into the mechanics of their watch as they are into the mechanics of their motorcycle,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern in an official release. “The Breitling Calibre 01 is a finely tuned engine, created with all the precision and attention to detail that goes into building the perfect bike,” he adds.
Since the racing chronograph has become an unmistakable part of the brand’s identity, let’s look at what makes these new Top Time watches exceptional.
Monochromatic Brilliance: Breitling Top Time B01 Deus
This is the third installment, resulting from the partnership between Breitling and the Australian motorcycle and surf outfitter, Deus Ex Machina; the first two limited-editions being successfully sold out. This new model will now join the brand’s core collection and looks handsome with a black dial and contrasting white sub-dials at three, six, and nine o’clock. The most eye-catching detail here is the retro-design style in which these chronographs have been executed—the rounded-square counters—now synonymous with the Top Time range. Even the tachymeter scale is in white and the only hint of colour is the red insert here as well as on the central seconds hand—shaped like a lightning bolt, and on the hands of the counters at three and six. It comes in a round, polished stainless-steel case measuring 41mm, water-resistant to 100m and is presented on a black leather strap, which complements the dial or on a Milanese bracelet. On turning the watch over, one can get a glimpse of the Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01, through the open caseback that features a red Deus logo at the centre, but more on this powerhouse later…
A Vision In Ice Blue: Breitling Top Time B01 Triumph
Breitling first joined forces with the British heritage motorcycle manufacturer Triumph, last year and introduced the powerful Speed Twin Limited Edition bike and a duo of Top Time Triumph watches—one released as 270 numbered pieces for bike owners and the other available to fans. Both versions stood out for their ice-blue dials—the hue, specifically matched to a Triumph Thunderbird 6T from 1951, and a rare, Breitling Top Time Ref. 815 from the 1970s, featuring a blue dial. The new version—now part of the core collection—also follows in the footsteps of its predecessor and carries the same gorgeous blue dial, but has been upgraded with the in-house B01 manufacture movement.
The dial showcases a twin-register display with speed-measuring tachymeter scale, and the Breitling and Triumph logos at 12 and six o’clock respectively—all in black—serving as a lovely contrast to the ice blue backdrop. Enough attention has been given to the layout of these elements where the counters are arranged in a ‘Zorro’ dial design or a black mask-like frame that looks like it’s protecting the chronograph’s eyes—first introduced in the Top Time range in the 1960s. This has been subtly integrated, using a metal brushing technique, only visible under certain light, and the symmetry has been maintained by the both brand logos, carefully placed on the dial. This case is also 41mm and offers a water-resistance of up to 100m, and exudes a retro charm with its mushroom chronograph pushers, positioned at two and four o’clock. It’s also available with both the options of a sporty leather strap or an elegant Milanese bracelet. The Top Time Triumph is also powered by the B01 movement, visible through the open caseback.
Driven By Perfection—The Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01
There’s enough that’s been written about the Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01 or more popularly known as the B01 movement. It was only in march that the brand updated their Top Time Classic Cars series with this in-house powerhouse and now, it’s the turn for the Triumph and the Deus editions. First developed in 2009 at their manufacture or the ‘Breitling Chronometrie’ as the brand refers to their watchmaking facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland; this movement was built from the ground up, incorporating the best elements derived from over a century of haute horlogerie expertise. This now stands as one of the most reliable chronograph movements on the market due to its functionality and aesthetics.
Coming to the technical aspect, the Calibre 01 is equipped with a column-wheel system and a vertical clutch that allows for smooth functioning for at least 70 hours. The ingenious design allows for easy cleaning and servicing by giving access to specific areas, without the need for a full disassembly. And the best part is that it comes with a five-year warranty due to the stringent quality-control processes that it undergoes while being developed and since this is a COSC-certified movement, it takes 10 months of production and 1,000 tests to earn the official certification for accuracy. In addition to this, Breitling also ensures that all their manufacture movements go through a gruelling process that involves rigorous shock testing (approximately 60,000 shocks at 500 g), crown testing (more than 100,000 crown winds), winding of the oscillating weight (3,456,000 weight turns), and chronograph-pusher testing (approximately 5,840 start-stop-reset engagements). And only when all these conditions are met can a watch finally leave the manufacture—a testimony to Breitling’s expertise on creating reliable timepieces that can weather any storm.
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Breitling Top Time
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Breitling Top Time
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