ReviewA Blissful Marriage Between Sunray And Moon: The Zenith Elite Moonphase

A Zenith Elite Moonphase presents an exemplary execution in layout and design, with depth in display, and layers in elements, along with functional indicators placed on it in complete harmony. Housed in the dial is the moon phase sub-dial, running seconds, hands and applied indices—all neatly arranged on a sunray texture, which is the base for all that visual splendour. And encircling the dial is a diamond-encrusted bezel. To comprehend this nuanced beauty, however, it is imperative to take a brief look at the previous editions such as the Elite Classic and Grand Date Moonphase.

The Illusion Of Denim: Elite Moonphase

The Elite Moonphase models come in 36mm and 40.5mm cases made from stainless steel or 18-karat rose gold; with a matching polished bezel or a diamond-set one. The dials, either in slate grey or a silvery hue—almost whitish—are made resplendent with a trademark sunray-pattern. The signature five-point Zenith star sits at 12 o’clock above the brand logo and is embedded on the fluted crown. From this range, the 36mm Moonphase model (as pictured) is the pièce de résistance with a diamond-set bezel and uncommon textured strap. The polished bezel is studded with 75 VS brilliant-cut diamonds, 0.60 carat each. Like all Zenith watches, the Moonphase range comes with alligator leather straps lined in protective rubber and a Tang pin buckle matching the case. What makes the 36mm model attractive is the strap that gives an illusion of bluish-grey stonewashed denim fabric; a unique strap design in the horological world.

Zenith Elite

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The Elite Moonphase: Same-Same, But Different

The Moonphase range falls between the Zenith Elite Classic time-and-date watch and the Captain Grand Date Moonphase series. The Elite Classic and Moonphase models display an identical sunray patterned dial originating from the watch-hand co-axial, while the Captain Grand Date has guilloche-patterned thick centre. All three versions have non-luminous rhodium or gold-plated dauphine hands and hour markers.

The Elite Moonphase models come in 36mm and 40.5mm cases made from stainless steel or 18-karat rose gold

The slate grey model, like the other Zenith Moonphase models, have non-luminous rhodium-plated dauphine hands and hour markers

Made from 228 parts, the Elite 691 calibre powers the Captain Grand Date, while the 195-part automatic winding movement, Elite 692 calibre powers the Elite Classic and Moonphase models. Both the movements beat at 28,800vph and offer minimum 50-hour power reserve when fully wound. Through the transparent caseback, one can admire the Elite calibre, especially the côtes de Genève pattern on the rotor, featuring the iconic Zenith star.

Through the transparent caseback, one can admire the 195-part automatic winding movement, Elite 692 calibre

Along with the ‘Côtes de Genève’ pattern, the rotor features the iconic Zenith star

The trademark five-pointed Zenith star that sits at 12 o’clock above the brand logo is also embedded on the fluted crown

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Broadly speaking, the Captain Grand Date and Moonphase appear like upgraded versions of the Elite Classic. Unlike the three-hand Elite Classic, the other two models are two-hand versions with a small seconds sub-dial posited at nine o’clock, and a moonphase sub-dial at six o’clock. The only instance where Elite Classic triumphs over the Moonphase is with the date aperture at six o’clock, situated in the Captain Grand Date at one o’clock. Sturdy anti-reflective scratch-resistant sapphire crystal firmly seals the dials, and the watch overall ensures upto 50m water resistance.

The Zenith Elite Moonphase thus performs well as a dainty dress watch, moreso because it very elegantly features what is often considered to be the poetic complication.