ReviewBeyond The Horizon: Presenting The New Zenith Defy Skyline 36mm Series

When one mentions Zenith, the first thing that probably comes to mind is the El Primero movement; after all the brand is known for developing one of the most iconic movements in the history of watchmaking that revolutionised the concept of timekeeping, way back in 1969. It set the record for being the world’s first Swiss-made, fully-integrated automatic chronograph, beating at a frequency of 36,000vph—a groundbreaking feat in the world of haute horlogerie for that era. This was possible, thanks to a column-wheel mechanism and an automatic winding system, which ensured a power reserve of at least 50 hours. While this took the brand to its ‘zenith’ of watchmaking, there was another notable collection launched the same year, which has evolved into an important pillar for the brand—the Defy—with the first model A3642, standing out for its sturdy case and design at a time when the popularity of sports watches was soaring and one had to launch a truly novel product in order to stay ahead of the competition, offered by other brands.

While Zenith are known for their Pilot and Elite collections, as the focus has always largely been on these lines, of late, the spotlight is back on the Defy collection as the brand continues to expand this portfolio with several offerings that are keeping up with the times. The Defy Skyline is one such series that has captivated collectors ever since its launch at last year’s digital edition of the LVMH Watch Week. The brand went all out to showcase its expertise in crafting watches that continue to be relevant even today and the Skyline was the perfect choice—with its fresh take on watchmaking featuring a slimmer design at 41mm and an elegant dial with a three-hand and 1/10^th-of-a-second display, positioned at nine o’clock. While this appears to be a simple timekeeper, Zenith have ingeniously combined this uncluttered design with a new El Primero movement, where the seconds hand at nine o’clock does one rotation every 10 seconds, with steady jumps in fixed increments, thereby completing a full revolution every 10 seconds.

With this Zenith have established the purest version of the modern-day Defy, which stands out for its sleek and evocative design, paired with an unprecedented function, while taking its cues from the original model. And the 2023 Skyline watches, too, continue to shine the spotlight on the watchmaking brilliance of the brand, which has been churning out remarkable timepieces since 1860. The new timepieces are now available in a mid-size, unisex 36mm version, incorporating pastel hues of pink or green, or in a deep blue version, and come with or without diamonds on the bezel. It’s also interesting to note that the 41mm is now available as a special ‘boutique edition’ in certain markets, and stands out for perfectly blending dark and golden tones on the dial. Let’s take a closer look at the new Defy Skyline timekeepers.

The Defy Skyline is one such series from Zenith that has captivated collectors ever since its launch at last year’s digital edition of the LVMH Watch Week

₹8,90,000

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Zenith launched the Skyline series, last year, featuring a slimmer design at 41mm and an elegant dial with a three-hand and 1/10th-of-a-second display, positioned at nine o’clock

₹8,90,000

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While this appears to be a simple, three-hand timekeeper, Zenith have combined this design with a new El Primero movement, where the seconds hand does one rotation every 10 seconds, with steady jumps in fixed increments

₹8,90,000

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Zenith Defy Skyline: Defining 21^st Century Watchmaking

For Zenith, the Defy collection is symbolic of ‘progressive watchmaking’ and builds upon the legacy of robustness and impeccable performance—key defining factors since the earliest Zenith ‘Defi’ pocket watches of the early 20th century. The watches majorly reinterpret elements from the 1969 Defy A3642 model in a contemporary context and are fitted with the brand’s latest generation of the El Primero movements, for supreme precision. This is evident in the architectural and highly faceted silhouette—inspired by the octagonal geometry of the early Defy models.

Apart from the new case size of 36mm and the three dial options in shades of blue, green or pink, the new Skyline timepieces are now available with or without diamonds on the bezel

₹11,90,000

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The new Zenith Defy Skyline models stand out for their sleek and evocative design, while taking their cues from the original 1969 model

The dial features star motifs, arranged in a geometric pattern on a sunburst finished surface. This pattern of engraved four-pointed stars is Zenith’s recreation of their ‘double Z’ logo from the 1960s

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But the most obvious question here is: How did the name ‘Skyline’ come about? The answer lies in the dial design, which is an attempt at recreating a star-studded sky. The watch face is embellished with star motifs, arranged in a geometric pattern on a sunburst finished surface. This perfectly-aligned pattern, consisting of engraved four-pointed stars is Zenith’s recreation of their ‘double Z’ logo from the 1960s.

“In just one year, the Defy Skyline has become one of the most in-demand lines for Zenith. Its strong visual identity, unique movement, and effortless versatility have made it a compelling choice within the sporty steel bracelet segment. It’s a purely modern creation that’s full of details that carry on the enduring legacy of the Defy collection that goes back to 1969. This year, the collection is growing with a new skeleton version featuring a bold and futuristic design, as well as mid-size unisex version of the Defy Skyline in 36mm with some vibrant dial colours. We’re really excited to witness the completion of the Defy collection with these dynamic new references,” said CEO Julien Tornare in an official statement, explaining the significance of the Defy collection for the brand in today’s times.

Inclusivity At Its Core—The Defy Skyline 36mm

In the 21^st century it’s important for a brand to break stereotypes and gender boundaries, and Zenith have transitioned seamlessly with their new brand positioning despite being viewed as a traditional ‘masculine’ brand for the longest time. Whether it’s their robust pilot’s watches or the Chronomaster pieces, the brand is clear in their communication and is no longer segregating watches based on gender. The new Skyline 36mm also follows the same mandate and while the predecessor—the 41mm version from last year is also meant for anyone who loves watches, the newer mid-size range is slightly more modest, and according to the brand is now created with ‘proportions that perfectly fit those who prefer a smaller fit’. They, however, don’t stray from the original Defy DNA and carry the same angular and geometric codes of the original.

Zenith have been quite clear in their communication and are not segregating their watches based on gender. The new Skyline 36mm also follows the same mandate with its unisex appeal

₹8,40,000

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The dial has a metallic base that is polished and then satin-brushed, giving the effect of rays emanating from the applied Zenith ‘five-pointed star’ emblem, positioned right below 12 o’clock

It’s driven by the Elite 670 automatic manufacture movement—adorned with a sleek and modern grey finish, which supplies a power reserve of at least 50 hours, when fully wound

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The watches are available in options of three dial hues. The first is the same metallic deep blue, from last year’s 41mm version, while the other two take on pastel tones of pink or green, inching more towards the neon spectrum. They have a metallic base that is polished and then satin-brushed, giving the effect of rays emanating from the applied Zenith ‘five-pointed star’ emblem, positioned right below 12 o’clock on the dial. Also, adding more architectural depth is the raised and sloped chapter ring, which takes on the same dodecagonal form as the bezel—studded with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds for all three hues—perfect for those who want a bit of bling when compared to the versions with plain bezels. There’s also a square date window at three o’clock, matching the respective dial colours.

The new Skyline 36mm is created with ‘proportions that perfectly fit those who prefer a smaller fit’. They, however, don’t stray from the original Defy DNA and carry the same angular and geometric codes of the original

This versatile timekeeper comes with a quick strap-change mechanism, which allows for easy swapping between the stainless-steel bracelet and the rubber strap, supplied along with the watch

This highly versatile timekeeper offers a water resistance of at least 100m, and adding another dimension to it is the quick strap-change mechanism on the caseback, which allows for easy swapping between the stainless-steel bracelet and the starry sky-patterned rubber strap with folding clasp in the same hue as the dial, supplied along with the watch. It’s driven by the Elite 670 automatic manufacture movement—adorned with a sleek and modern grey finish, replete with a rotor in the shape of an open star in the same aesthetic as other Defy lines. Beating at 28,800vph, it supplies a power reserve of at least 50 hours, when fully wound.

Also, Zenith have recently unveiled three new boutique-exclusive editions of the Defy Skyline in 41mm and 36mm with cool ice-blue dials, inspired by vivid blue skies and crystal-clear waters. This refreshing take on the dials looks stunning especially when paired with diamonds on the bezel. They also feature an engraved design consisting of four-pointed stars, glistening against the sunray-patterned metallic dial base. In keeping with the visual harmony of the dials, even the date wheels have been fashioned in the same colour so as to have a uniform look.

Both editions are powered by Zenith’s automatic manufacture movements that feature star-shaped oscillating weights and can be admired through the exhibition casebacks. The watch is delivered on a steel bracelet with a satin-brushed surface with chamfered and polished edges, seamlessly following the contours of the angular case. There’s also an option of an ice-blue rubber strap with a starry sky pattern and a steel folding clasp, which can be easily swapped without any tools, thanks to Zenith’s quick strap-change mechanism consisting of secure buttons on the back.