ReviewChallenging The Status Quo: Presenting The Zenith Defy Extreme Collection

The legend of Zenith’s iconic El Primero movement never gets old. Every horology enthusiast is well versed with how this mechanism shook things up back in 1969, when it was first launched. The revolutionary movement set the bar really high as the world’s first Swiss-made, fully-integrated automatic chronograph, beating at a frequency of 36,000vph—a record in the history of haute horlogerie. It’s interesting to note that around the same time, Zenith also introduced their avant-garde Defy collection, consisting of robust luxury sports watches—perhaps progenitors of such timekeepers which became extremely popular when Audemars Piguet launched the first Royal Oak timepiece in 1972—a bold design that captured the luxury sports watch segment, back then. The Zenith Defy, however, stood out for its distinct, octagonal tonneau case, the tetradecagonal (14-sided) bezel, and the Gay Fréres ladder bracelet, driven by the legendary El Primero. But even though it packed all the elements together, the watch didn’t do very well probably because it was way ahead of its time. However in 2017, Zenith revived this fabled timepiece, and relaunched it as the Defy Lab—a limited-edition collection of 10 watches, equipped with all the modern mechanisations, including a superior version of the El Primero movement with a new type of oscillator, which upped the ante in the watchmaking game. This oscillator stood out because it was crafted using silicon and combined the functions of the balance, balance spring, and lever in one single piece, promising almost ten times higher accuracy and speed. Perhaps the biggest shift that the brand were able to achieve with this relaunch was to bring back the focus on their watches, which had for long been taken up by El Primero movement, even though the timepieces in the Defy range are driven by the same. And in over 150 years of existence, Zenith have remained true to their calling, since the brand continues to push the barriers with their watchmaking excellence; the Defy collection being a fine example of consistent innovation and evolution, while foraying into the 21st century.

Zenith Defy Extreme: Built For ‘Extremes’ And A New Generation

Launched last year during the digital edition of Watches & Wonders, the Zenith Defy Extreme collection boasts highly rugged sports watches that combine the supremacy of the El Primero movement along with materials such as titanium and rose gold. With this collection, the brand aim to push form and function to new heights with bold and futuristic timekeepers, built for people who forge their own paths, take the roads less travelled and leave a mark with their out-of-the-box ideas. These high-performance chronographs come in larger 45mm cases with a water-resistance of 200m, sharper lines, more pronounced edges, and an overall silhouette that exudes robustness, resilience and a penchant for exploring new horizons. They sit comfortably on the wrist, despite the generous case size with additional components protecting the pushers, and screw-down crown, which do not dig into the skin. One of the Defy Extreme’s most striking elements is the twelve-sided ring placed under the bezel that extends down to the twelve-sided caseback—reminiscent of the Defy A3642 from the 1960s and its faceted bezel. The interplay between materials and their finishes serves to add another dimension of modernity. The matt titanium and matt titanium with rose gold versions feature an entirely matt-finished, microblasted surface for a monolithic look, while the titanium version with blue accents is finished to bring out the different facets of the metal with polished, satin-brushed and smooth surfaces.

The Zenith Defy Extreme chronographs come in larger 45mm cases with a water-resistance of 200m, sharper lines, more pronounced edges, and an overall silhouette that exudes robustness

₹17,90,000

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One of the Defy Extreme’s most striking elements is the twelve-sided ring placed under the bezel that extends down to the twelve-sided caseback

₹17,90,000

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With cases crafted in titanium, The Defy Extreme watches come in matt titanium, matt titanium with rose gold inserts, and a polished titanium version with blue accents

₹21,90,000

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Open-Worked Excellence: The Dial

Apart from the matt-finished surface of the Defy Extreme chronograph, what really stands out is the open-worked dial that allows one to observe the inner workings of the El Primero movement. This has been achieved with aplomb since a lot of skeletonised watches end up with rather busy dials, where it becomes quite the challenge to read the time or even understand, basic functions. Quite a killjoy! The Zenith Defy Extreme, however, offers optimum legibility while allowing a clear view of the groundbreaking 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph calibre, with two escapements beating at 36,000vph for the timekeeping part and 360,000vph for the chronograph functions.

The Zenith Defy Extreme, offers optimum legibility while allowing a clear view of the groundbreaking 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph calibre, with two escapements beating at 36,000vph for the timekeeping part and 360,000vph for the chronograph functions

Consisting of a transparent sapphire crystal, the dial features applied oversized and slightly overlapping chronograph counters that emphasise volume and legibility. It also imparts a certain depth to the dial when one looks at this meticulous display of various ‘layers’. One can view the minutes at three o’clock, the chronograph seconds at six o’clock and the small/running seconds at the nine o’clock positions. The hands as well as the applied hour markers are also extra-large and filled with copious amounts of Super-LumiNova, which ensures legibility even in the darkest or low-light situations. And to further enhance the tonality of the watch, the movements are coloured galvanically to match and complement their sturdy exterior: black for the matt titanium, blue for the polished titanium, and gold for the titanium and rose gold versions.

Consisting of a transparent sapphire crystal, the dial features applied oversized and slightly overlapping chronograph counters that emphasise volume and legibility. One can view the minutes at three o’clock, the chronograph seconds at six o’clock and the small/running seconds at the nine o’clock positions

The In-House Mechanics: El Primero Calibre 9004

We’ve already mentioned that one gets a generous view of the workings of the El Primero movement through the open-worked dial, and on reversing the watch, one can see the black-coloured mainplate, along with a special black oscillating weight with satin-polished finishings. The Defy Extreme chronographs are driven by the El Primero calibre 9004—capable of recording the elapsed time up to 1/100th-of-a-second. This is possible due to a central chronograph seconds hand, which makes one quick rotation across the dial, once per second. A regular El Primero movement is composed of 300 components and supplies a power reserve of 50 hours. And while the calibre 9004 is based on the original El Primero, it is able to offer supreme accuracy, thanks to a secondary, high-frequency escapement that beats at 360,000vph or 50Hz, and can be used continuously for 90 minutes before requiring a rewind. Its double-chain structure is based on two regulators, made of Carbon-Matrix Carbon Nanotube composite—a patented new material that is insensitive to magnetic fields and temperature gradients to a degree well above existing norms. Both the escapements are integrated on the same mainplate and Zenith have done away with a clutch to connect them, thereby reducing fluctuations and loss in timekeeping precision.

The Defy Extreme chronograph is driven by the El Primero calibre 9004—capable of recording the elapsed time up to 1/100th-of-a-second

It is housed in a 45mm, case with sharp lines and sits comfortably on the wrist, despite the additional components like pushers, and screw-down crown, which do not dig into the skin

A New Look With Integrated Bracelets

Since Zenith are aiming at targeting a new generation of horophiles, it’s imperative to keep up with the times. The Defy Extreme watches take this to the next level by incorporating a proprietary quick strap-change system that offers ultimate ease when it comes to wearing them. Each Defy Extreme chronograph comes with three different straps: a mircroblasted or polished and satin-brushed titanium bracelet, a rubber strap with a folding buckle matching the case and, a Velcro strap that can be easily and precisely adjusted on the go, with the textile material suited for any situation. While one may look at these timepieces as essentially rugged sports chronographs, they, surprisingly go well with casual or even formal attire, thanks to this integrated bracelet system, which requires no tools, and can be changed at the click of a button by the wearer.

The Defy Extreme chronographs come with a proprietary quick strap-change system that offers ultimate ease, requires no tools, and can be changed at the click of a button by the wearer

₹17,90,000

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Apart from the mircroblasted or polished titanium bracelet, there's a version with a rubber strap with a folding buckle matching the case, as featured here

There's also a third version with a Velcro strap that can be easily and precisely adjusted on the go

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While in the recent times Zenith have been focusing largely on their Chronomaster and Defy ranges, it’s quite apparent that the latter will take the company to its zenith in future because of the scope of innovation and experimentation that it offers. It’s versatile and can incorporate classic or sporty elements—a delight for the new-age consumer; while also promising accuracy and in-house engineering at favourable price points. The brand have also been experimenting with colours as in the case of the Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet or the Defy 21 Felipe Pantone editions, and have found a connect with a younger audience. The Defy Extreme collection with its 1/100th-of-a-second, robust and reliable chronographs also embodies the same values and hopes to continue defying the established norms and constantly challenging the status quo by pushing the limits of performance to the extreme.