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FeatureOff The Beaten Track: Watches That Forego The Conventions Of Timekeeping

A whole other dimension exists in the realm of watchmaking, where the creative spirit is left untethered. Here’s why you should know about it, and consider getting one of these novel creations

Ajinkya Nair September 28, 2019

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There really is no point in denying it. As much as it pains me to say this (and for many to hear it), the truth is that timepieces are no longer about reading time. Many of you would agree that, when someone asks you for the time, it’s almost an instinct to whip out your phone. While several watchmakers seem to be bogged down by tradition, heritage and legacy, the others are busy rummaging the recesses of the internet to find historical events or famous personalities to commemorate. On the buying side of the spectrum, there’s another divide. There are some (read: a majority of watch collectors) who will buy a watch just because of the brand name or collection. Then there are the people who obsess over genres and how purpose-built the watches are, despite never coming even remotely close to the kinds of terrain and depths these timepieces are built for. Amid this tug-of-war, the only thing that is evident is that premium watches don’t sell time; they sell a lifestyle. And this begs the question: if it’s all about making a statement, why not make it a big one? Why go down the restrained, traditional, genre-specific path? Why not wear something unconventional, bold and creative?

There are several timepieces out there that can almost be likened to art. ‘Almost’ in that they do perform functions beyond just being an expression. We’ve picked out a few brands that exemplify this creative side of watchmaking, as we showcase some of their most unique creations to give you a better idea.

Art On Your Wrist

One brand that has been creating waves in the Swiss watch industry is MB&F. If you’re new to the world of horology and don’t quite understand what the hype is all about, take a look at the brand’s website and go through the timepieces that MB&F has to offer. The designs of some of the pieces simply beggar belief. However, what’s even more astounding is the fact that the movements within are perfectly tailored to each model. Maximilian Büsser, MB&F’s founder, says that the thought process behind the concepts are mainly inspired by his childhood dreams. The brand swears by the slogan, ‘A creative adult is a child who survived’, and that very belief trickles down to the products they make. Respecting tradition, but never constrained by it, MB&F reinterpret traditional, high-quality watchmaking into three-dimensional kinetic sculptures for your wrist, which intrigue and fascinate people, making them the ultimate conversation starters.

And no conversation about conversation starters is complete without mentioning H. Moser & Cie. This little independent Swiss watch company regularly makes headlines and manages to completely divide the industry. Every year, they inevitably become a major talking point among horologists, with the release of a ridiculous timepiece right before SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), an event where the watch industry meets and new trends emerge. These concept pieces, however, aren’t Moser’s only trick in the book. Thought-provoking watches such as the Venturer Concept Vantablack, Endeavour Flying Hours and the Swiss Alp Watch are available for all to buy, and aren’t just a one-off statement. But statements they do make—with unique materials for baffling visuals, and innovative interpretations of time for unconventional displays.

As you might imagine, newcomers aren’t usually welcome in the heritage-driven world of Swiss watchmaking. But the respect that Parmigiani Fleurier commands from the long-established players in the watch world is quite astounding. So what does this 23-year-old brand—a period that barely registers on the timeline of Swiss watchmaking—do differently for it to have such a strong hold on an industry that can be quite rigid otherwise? The single biggest reason is because of the man at the helm of it. Since going into business as a watchmaker and restorer in 1976, Michel Parmigiani has developed a reputation for both restoring extraordinary timepieces and, more recently, creating new ones. His vast knowledge in the field helps him create watches that puts Parmigiani in a league of its own. Each creation reflects the calibre of the creator, who gets involved in the making of each and every prestige watch. From the divine proportion of the golden ratio finding its way into the lugs of all Parmigiani watches, to using modern technology, such as 3D printing, for the development of its timepieces, and to customising watches to their patrons’ unique needs, Parmigiani manages to balance its haute horlogerie roots with avant-garde designs. It may be one of the smallest brands in Switzerland, but it is undoubtedly among the most powerful.

Thinking Out Of The Box

There are countless examples of niche watch brands that let their creative spirit run free. But only a sliver possess the mechanical prowess of Louis Moinet. This brand with a rich legacy has carved a niche for itself when it comes to artistic timepieces. Moinet’s obsession with celestial bodies is quite apparent in its collections, and the way the brand transforms watches’ mechanical components into decorative elements is astounding. Another signature feature of Louis Moinet is the use of extremely rare materials, such as tropical fossilised palm wood and dinosaur bone, or wondrous meteorites hailing from the moon or Mars.

Then there’s Voutilainen, a brand by Finnish watchmaker, Kari Voutilainen. This fairly new brand has gained quite the following with its recipe that blends traditional techniques and watchmaking prowess with high-end finishing. Their timepieces, though, look just modern enough to really catch your eye. If you didn’t know about the brand before this, it would be a good idea to read up on them for some instant clout within any circle of watch enthusiasts that you may find yourself in.

Creative Disruption

This niche segment isn’t just a celebration of design. It has another side; one that puts technology and innovation at the forefront. Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, Grönefeld, Roger Dubuis and Zenith are just some of the brands disrupting the traditional watch game, and doing it in style. You might ask what F.P. Journe—one of the remaining few truly traditional watchmakers—is doing on a list of avant-garde brands such as MB&F, Richard Mille and Roger Dubuis. However, there is something to be said about F.P. Journe’s brand of innovation, which puts it here. Seasoned watch enthusiasts swear by this fairly new brand, and for good reason. The watchmaker creates some incredibly complicated timepieces with an incredibly intelligent design—one that doesn’t need you to be a mathematician to figure out. Its watches are made to the highest standards of haute horlogerie, with their movements made from solid 18-karat rose gold, and a finish that is simply unrivalled. The mainplates are decorated with a combination of guilloche and perlage finishing. And the bridges have the Côtes de Geneve (Geneva stripes) pattern with perfectly polished angles. The finish is so exquisite that it’s even comparable to that of the holy trinity (Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin). F.P. Journe produces very few watches per year, and you can be sure that you’ll rarely see one on a passing wrist, making the watches from this brand future collectibles.

Richard Mille is another example of crazy watchmakers. The watches they make are often referred to as racing machines on your wrist. And a lot of their innovation comes down to the materials they employ—those that are normally used in Formula One cars, aircraft and racing yachts, truly going out of the (watchmaking) box. The alloys and other materials are new in terms of composition, and the ability to use them in watchmaking is quite commendable. But Richard Mille dedicates years of research and significant investment to understand and craft with these new materials. NTPT (North Thin Ply Technology) carbon, for instance, was developed for the sails of racing yachts, but Richard Mille employed the material for a series of watches. Richard Mille also uses a special polymer injected with carbon nanotubes—a material 200 times stronger than steel—to protect the movement and its components from shocks. This continued focus on innovation has proved to be a strong and effective way for Richard Mille to differentiate itself from the rest.

Defying Tradition To Preserve It

The thing about these disruptive, futuristic timepieces is that they make us rethink the norm and break free from the shackles of tradition. We understand that heritage plays a big role in watchmaking, but like all products, watches too have a stagnation period. The only way to keep mechanical watchmaking relevant is to keep the other end of the spectrum looking forward. Zenith, for example, plays the tradition card with the El Primero, which was, at its time, the first integrated, self-winding chronograph movement. But on the other hand, they also come out with disruptive products such as the Defy Inventor—a groundbreaking timepiece with a movement that features a revolutionary oscillator system and operates at a breakneck speed of 18Hz (1,29,600vph)!

Another example of a watchmaker defying the norm is Roger Dubuis, who decided to negate the effects of gravity without the use of a tourbillon, in their Excalibur Quatuor. The watch employs a movement with four balance wheels, each beating at 4Hz, which distribute the effects of gravity among themselves, resulting in a more consistent timekeeping rate. However, gravity-negating advantages aside, the Excalibur Quatuor is quite theatrical and truly a sight to behold.

These watches are just some examples of how the mechanical watch industry is changing and evolving. While these timepieces may not see mass-production numbers, they still play a vital role in expanding watchmaking horizons. Watch collectors are the ones accepting and embracing disruptive techniques, materials and designs, which drives watchmakers to strive even harder to awe and impress. So the next time you’re looking for a fine timepiece, don’t opt for one just because of the name emblazoned on it, but choose a product because of how unique, bold or unconventional it is. After all, what’s the horological world without some crazy innovation!