Round-UpThe Most Remarkable New Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2023
What has now become the second most important watch fair/trade event in Switzerland, Geneva Watch Days is now in its fourth year. Coming live to you from the 2023 edition in Geneva, which kicks off today, we present some of the finest new watches being unveiled by the leading exhibitors
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Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years
In celebration of their 140th anniversary in 2023, Alpina introduced the Alpiner Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years watches. These remarkable timepieces featured vintage calibre 490 movements and showcased rectangular silver cases, a departure from Alpina’s conventional designs. For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina unveiled a new edition of these watches, now equipped with the automatic AL-530 calibre, representing a fusion of efficiency and style. The square-shaped case, meticulously crafted from mirror-polished silver, measured 32.50X39mm with a slender 9.71mm thickness. Notably, the timepiece featured anti glare sapphire crystal on both sides, offering a captivating view of the intricate AL-530 movement. The black and white dials are adorned with the brand’s vintage logo, adding a touch of nostalgia to this contemporary release. Paired with a light brown ostrich leather strap featuring off-white stitching, this Geneva Watch Days launch perfectly embodies Alpina’s enduring commitment to marrying traditional craftsmanship with innovative design.
Angelus Chronodate Titanium Storm Blue
The 2023 Chronodate Titanium Storm Blue Edition is the latest iteration of the Angelus Chronodato (1942); the world’s first wristwatch chronograph with calendar. Available in matt grey and blue dials, the 42.5mm iteration features two snailed metallic black sub-dials; small seconds at nine o’clock and 30-minute counter at three o’clock, exhibits unusual nonchalance by riding over the Arabic hour markers 10, eight, four and two. For the sake of clarity and swiftness in adjusting time, the corresponding chronograph pushers are marked ‘start’ and ‘reset’. The Chronodate variants are powered by the in-house calibre A-500, inbuilt with column wheel and horizontal clutch to reduce bulky proportions. A satin-finished titanium bracelet complements the case.
Armin Strom One Week First Edition
Armin Strom have introduced the One Week First Edition—a revamped version of their original One Week model launched in 2010, which boasted an in-house movement with a seven-day power reserve. The new version comes in a limited-edition of 25 pieces only and is crafted in a 41mm stainless-steel case, which measures only 10.6mm in height—largely compact proportions to house the complex calibre ARM21, driving this watch. The inner workings of the mechanism are on full display and stand out against the ice blue PVD-treated main plate and bridges, which form a fully open-worked dial. In fact, compared to the previous generation of the One Week, which had a partially open dial, the new model has a more three-dimensional appearance. Water-resistant to 100m, the watch is presented on an integrated steel bracelet, which offers optimum comfort on the wrist.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight
Arnold & Son have launched the Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight—a poetic complication, featuring hints of mint green on the dial in a limited-edition of 18 pieces. Here, one finds mother-of-pearl in hues of mint green, turquoise, teal, and sky blue—a brilliant attempt at showcasing the night sky. The watch comes in an 18-karat white-gold case, measuring 38mm and is set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds. It is protected by a domed sapphire crystal on both sides and offers a water-resistance of 30m. The Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight is driven by Arnold & Son’s in-house calibre A&S1612—the smallest in their collection, to grace this timepiece. This manual-winding powerhouse has sleek proportions, measuring 29.4mm in diameter and 4.95mm in thickness, and beats at 21,600vph to provide an autonomy of 90 hours. The brand have also ensured that the moon phase complication on this watch will not need any adjustment and remain accurate for 122 years.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic
Among the world’s thinnest mechanical watches, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo has won numerous awards for both its stunning eight-sided aesthetic and integrated bracelet as well as its fantastic ultra-slim movements. Their latest release, the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic is in a beautiful, anthracite-coloured carbon case with a dial and integrated strap made from the same material. The seamless marbling on the grey-black watch is offset by gorgeous 18 karat rose-gold highlights for the elongated markers, skeletonised dauphine hands, small-seconds sub-dial between six and nine o’clock, and the rose gold crown with a black ceramic insert at three. The futuristic aesthetic, courtesy of its streaked-marble effect on carbon, paired with a traditional material like rose gold, go to show just how beautifully the classics and the contemporary combine when put together tastefully. The lightweight yet tough timepiece is resistant to 100m, which makes the OctoFinissimo CarbonGold Automatic an everyday-friendly accessory. Inside, the watch houses the brand’s ultra-slim automatic mechanical calibre BVL 138, which is also visible through the exhibition caseback, and offers a power reserve of 60 hours.
Corum Concept Watch
Corum have launched the remarkable new Concept Watch, which pays homage to the glittery night sky and high-precision mechanics. Measuring 39.5mm, this timekeeper is a perfect fusion of organic shapes and sustainable materials. It comes in a round case, crafted from recycled grade-5 titanium, and is powered by a magnificent flying tourbillon movement beating at 21,600vph to supply an autonomy of at least 90 hours. Here, every component has been crafted in a manner that appears to float within the sapphire plates. The dial, located below this mechanism is crafted from aventurine and adds a celestial touch to the watch. While the watch face offers a generous view of this movement, the caseback, too, allows one to appreciate the intricate mechanism. It showcases a finely etched pattern, surrounding the window, which highlights the tourbillon, mainspring, and gear train, while the engraving vividly explains the main functionalities of the watch’s components.
Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité Harmony Blue And Stardust
Inspired by their Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme models, Czapek & Cie unveils Place Vendôme Complicité in two coloured iterations—Harmony Blue (18-karat rose gold) and Stardust (steel)—inbuilt with two independent oscillators beating at the same pace; a 1930s mechanism, extremely unique to pull off in wristwatches. The dial, then, assumes a pyramidal composition; the double escapement regulator positioned at 7.30 and 4.30 (between seven and eight o’clock plus four and five o’clock), with power transported from a solitary barrel through the differential situated at 12 o’clock. There’s a fourth counter as well: the fan-shaped power reserve indicator at six o’clock, run on the in-house Calibre 8 that beats at 21,600vph and promises upto 72 hours uninterrupted service. Offering some linearity to the dial are two skeletal hour and minute hands, with a slim skeletal hand. The hands and Super-LumiNova-filled hour markers match the 41.8mm case. The 50 limited-run iterations come attached with alligator straps complementing the dial colour and secured to gold folding clasps.
Doxa Sub 300β Sharkhunter
Doxa go for gold (and black) at Geneva Watch Days 2023 with the Sub 300β Sharkhunter. Taking cues of form and function from US Navy gear, it boasts a striking 18-karat 3N gold bezel and crown, while it is housed in a black ceramic case, with additional titanium protection. This allows the timepiece to withstand depths up to 300m. The patented 18-karat 3N gold unidirectional-rotating bezel indicates dive time, depth, and efficient visibility thanks to its Super-LumiNova markers. The matt, black-on-black textured dial emulates the sandy surfaces of the seabed. Inside, it’s powered by a Swiss automatic COSC-certified movement which offers a 38-hour power reserve. All of this is strapped on in black FKM leather which boasts a PVD folding clasp, adorned by the iconic Doxa fish symbol.
Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture
Constant innovation has defined Frederique Constant’s 35 years in the luxury watchmaking world. In this limited time, they’ve created 31 manufacture calibres, the latest of which—the FC-735—makes its appearance inside the 40mm case of the Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture timepiece. It features three complications—a big date, a 50-hour power reserve with an indicator, and a gorgeous moon-phase complication on the dial. With slim, dagger-shaped markers and sword hands, the classical-looking timepiece is available in two limited editions of 35 pieces for the platinum case with a stunning meteorite dial, and 350 pieces for the rose-gold case and grey dial with the moon and stars on the moon-phase sub-dial decorated in a matching rose-gold. The steel versions, with blue and white dials, will be part of the brand’s core collection, embodying the brand’s approach to making luxury Swiss mechanical watchmaking accessible at a fair price.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute 8tech
Girard-Perregaux continue their trend of taking their iconic Laureato line up a notch with the Absolute series. Always venturing into the territory of daring new materials, with larger case sizes, the Absolute watches have always made a statement beyond the mainstream. The new Absolute Laureato 8tech boasts a case made from unidirectional, non-braided, and pre-impregnated carbon fibre, combined with lightweight titanium powder to form extremely thin layers. While the mysterious-looking case draws attention, the layered dial holds it. The sandblasted, grey, gradient dial—with sub-dials that add depth to the timepiece—adds to the modern appeal of this watch. The dial, case, caseback and even the strap perfectly complement each other, following the same hues that cast a feel of grandeur around the watch. Powering the watch is the in-house self-winding calibre that offers a power reserve of 46 hours. The movement is visible through a smoky sapphire crystal caseback and features finishing including côtes de Genève, chamfering, and straight graining.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack
H. Moser & Cie. have done it again, taking the darkest black on earth into a stately new space with their Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack paired with red gold. The 40mm red-gold case appears to frame a void of sorts as timekeeping hands seem suspended over nothingness. This is what the Vantablack coating does, as Moser know only too well. With slim red gold indexes and elegant leaf shaped hands in a gilt that matches the case, the black stands out stunningly, its abyss enhanced by the grey, hand-stitched kudu leather strap the watch is mounted on. Inside the watch is the brand’s automatic calibre HMC 200, with an automatic bi-directional pawl-winding system and an engraved oscillating weight, offering a cool three-day power reserve.
Jacob & Co The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone
The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone watch by Jacob & Co. is based on a dual time zone Wakmann watch that was gifted to Jacob Arabo of Jacob & Co at the age of 13 by his father Nisan Arabov. Close to 50 years later, along with Jacob’s son Benjamin, the three generations of watchmakers have unveiled this 999-piece limited-run timepiece around Geneva Watch Days 2023. The maps of the Northern, Central and Southern America are engraved on the west, while Africa, Europe and the western-most parts of Asia are mapped on the east—their surfaces stamped in 18-karat rose gold finish, using purpose-built, high-accuracy mold. Engraved on the caseback are continents depicting Europe to Japan, Africa and Asia. The cobalt blue lacquer areas represent the oceans. Three centrally located sub-dials are positioned vertically; double two-handed time zones at 12 o’clock and six o’clock with their independent hour and minute markers and stamped tracks in rose gold. Inbetween the sub-dials time zone indicators, at the heart/co-axial lies a four-armed wonder windrose compass, with one red-tipped arm for direction marker. Made from 206 components and 33 jewels, the in-house JCAA11 calibre movement—29.50mm in diameter and 6.80mm in height—powers the new iteration that beats at 28,880vph and offers 42 hours of power reserve. The watch is fastened with a blue alligator leather strap with an 18-karat rose gold pin buckle.
Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40
Laurent Ferrier expands their iconic Série Atelier line with Sport Auto 40 as tribute to 1979 Porsche 935 No. 40, and in turn, the 24 Hours of Le Mans that founders François Servanin and Laurent Ferrier participated in in 1979, bagging the third spot. The two 41.5mm titanium iterations with cushion-shaped chamfered bezels feature gradient viridian green dials with orange hands and hour markers in white outline and yellow hands in black outline. Celebrating ‘40’ is a white tone-on-tone small seconds sub-dial situated at six o’clock. Controlling how your eye travels for speedy readability is a fuchsia-hued transfer, forming a cross that connects the 12 o’clock hour marker with the six o’clock sub-dial, and the nine o’clock hour marker with the date aperture situated at three o’clock. Another highlight, the in-house LF270.01 calibre that offers a 72-hour power reserve, is quite elaborate, as each specimen requires 139 manual finishing operations, and uses hand-decorated gentian wood, diamantine and zinc-polished finishes.
Louis Erard La Petite Seconde Metropolis ‘Louis Erard X The Horophile’
The collaboration between Swiss watchmakers Louis Erard and watch enthusiast The Horophile has given birth to the exquisite Louis Erard La Petite Seconde Metropolis. With just 178 units available, this limited edition combines Swiss watchmaking crafts and modern design. Drawing inspiration from New York’s art deco style, the watch features a circular dial pattern, empire baton hands reminiscent of the Empire State Building, and a mix of architectural numerals. The slate, salmon, and tobacco dial renditions offer distinct warmth and contrast, complemented by gilded hands and numerals. Powered by the automatic Sellita SW261-1 calibre, the watch offers a 38-hour power reserve. A true fusion of tradition and contemporary flair, the collection showcases a ‘neo-deco’ aesthetic that pays homage to the past while embracing the present.
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe
The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe is four sizes smaller than its 2021 predecessor, with a 39mm stainless steel case. This iteration merges urban architecture of buildings and bridges with designs reminiscent to Maori tattoos. A dark grey flange frames dainty timekeeping elements such as the hour and minute pencil hands, and baton indices filled with Super-LumiNova. Powered by Sellita SW200-1-based ML115 automatic movement, the watch beats at 28,800vph and offers up to 38-hour power reserve. Like the external body, the movement features textured finishes such as perlage, snailing, and côtes de Genève. Equipped with the company’s easy strap-exchange system, the wearer can replace the original five-link bracelet with other alternatives without reliance on external tools.
Oris AquisPro 4000m
This year marks a new low for Oris, in a good way. Going deeper than ever before for the brand is the 2023 AquisPro, which is water-resistant to 4,000m. That’s 4km! Since it can go down to such extreme depths, there are some advanced features in this dive watch, which are not seen in the regular Aquises from the brand’s portfolio. These include an Oris-patented ‘rotation safety system’, which allows the user to lock the bezel’s position at the start of a dive, for added safety, in addition to the unidirectional rotation. There is also an extension for the folding clasp on the strap, to make it adaptable to be worn over the sleeve of a diving suit. The watch itself is quite bulky in thickness and size—at 49.5mm—but it should be rather light in weight, seeing as it’s made from titanium. Inside is Oris’s calibre 400, which promises advanced accuracy owing to its advanced anti-magnetism, and massive power reserve of five days.
Perrelet Turbine 41 Titanium
Smaller than ever before from the signature Perrelet collection is this new Turbine 41 Titanium. While the line previously only offered Turbine watches at 44mm and upwards, the 41mm is a refreshing addition, in an age when oversized timepieces are not being preferred as much. The titanium construction also makes it extremely light in weight, but still very durable. Additionally, it’s also water-resistant to 100m. All this makes the Turbine 41 perfect as a daily-wear piece, despite its novel display, with the spinning propreller-inspired blades on the dial—made from anodised aluminium. This plain titanium edition comes in four colour options, with accents in red, blue, green and grey. Behind the colours of the dial is Perrelet’s COSC-certified chronometer calibre P-331-MH, which can store a regular power reserve of 42 hours.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Brume
For their Nuit Fantastique Brume timepiece, independent watchmaker Trilobe pair their unconventional time-telling rings with a traditional technique, presenting a watch that looks like art on the wrist. Contrasting guilloche patterns on the dial—a circular Grain d’Orge motif for the fixed part of the dial, and a triangular Clous de Paris decoration in the centre of the seconds disc—and the graining on the hours and the minutes rings highlight tradition, even as these very wheels take time into the future. The ambiguous grey-brown shade of the Nuit Fantastique Brume shines through the guilloche motifs, evoking the mist (brume) the watch is named for, enhanced further by the silvered background on the off-centred and overlapping minutes and seconds rings. Inside the watch, the automatic X-Centric calibre has been developed—for the first time—at the brand’s new workshop in Paris, as opposed to in Switzerland, where the movement was previously made.
Urwerk UR-100V Stardust
Urwerk’s offering for this year’s edition of Geneva Watch Days is the sparkling UR-100V Stardust. This 41mm timekeeper has a case middle forged in stainless-steel whereas the caseback is in shot-blasted titanium and sapphire. It is set with 400 diamonds, totalling almost 1.90 carats, arranged using snow-setting technique and only the edges of the watch have been left bare. The dial is also grey and features the minutes scale—located on the upper part of the railway-type track, and is studded with 36 diamonds, while another 24 adorn the crown, positioned at 12 o’clock. It is powered by the self-winding UR 12.02 movement, which beats at 28,800vph to provide an energy supply of 48 hours approximately. Water-resistant to 30m, the UR-100V Stardust is presented on a blue fabric strap with a steel pin buckle, which features two rows comprising 11 diamonds each.
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Frederique Constant Manufacture
FC-735G3H9
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Frederique Constant Manufacture
FC-735S3H6
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Frederique Constant Manufacture
FC-735N3H6
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H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour
1200-0411
