Round-UpThe Bedazzling Gemstone-Paved Dials Of Jacob & Co’s Brilliant Timepieces

The Jacob & Co Brilliant line of timepieces reflects the analogy ‘drop by drop makes an ocean’. Most of the iterations feature fully-paved dials and even bezels, studded in precious stones, mainly white diamonds. The opulent timepieces follow a minimalistic design vocabulary, sticking to 2D instead of miniature sculptures that pepper the roster of other Jacob & Co’s opulent collections, such as the Astronomia. Here are four of the most impressive Brilliant watches, which are fine examples of hand gem-setting craftwork that defines the stunning Brilliant series.

Brilliant Pendant Northern Lights Pavé Red Mineral Crystal Dial

For instant recall, Rihanna wore this exquisite dial while dancing mid-air for her captivating performance at the 2023 NFL Super Bowl halftime show. The Brilliant Pendant Northern Lights Pavé is an example of yet another Jacob & Co timepiece to have pulled off skeletonised dial with glittering diamonds. Dangling from an 18-karat rose gold chain like a pendant is the watch; revealing its identity through its two leaf-shaped hands, one each for hours and minutes. Visible from the deep red mineral crystal dial, reminiscent of blood and bone, is the anthracite JCAM01 movement; displaying all its intricacies—wheels, rhodium-plated gears, balance, bridges, and mainspring barrel. This manual-winding movement, held together with 21 jewels, offers upto 46-hour power reserve. Cradling the dial is the 42mm case from 18-karat rose gold, with 251 white diamonds, set by hand. The crown is at 12’clock—reminiscent of old-fashioned pocket watches—covered in 30 diamonds. Antireflective sapphire crystals add an extra protective measure to the dial and caseback.

Visible from the deep red mineral crystal dial of the Jacob & Co Northern Lights, reminiscent of blood and bone, is the JCAM01 movement; displaying all its parts; the wheels, gears, balance, bridges, and mainspring barrel

Dangling from an 18-karat rose gold chain like a pendant is the watch; revealing its identity through its two leaf-shaped hands, one each for hour and minute

Brilliant Mystery Rose Gold And Diamond

Two rubies amidst white diamonds on twin (back-to-back) triple axis tourbillons at the heart of the Jacob & Co Mystery Rose Gold And Diamond can hold your gaze longer than intended. Each axis fulfils a role. The first axis takes 60 seconds to make one rotation, while the second and third axes take two minutes to complete one rotation. Instead of the 12 o’clock or six o’clock positions, these twin tourbillions are centrally located, and connected to a single differential. The hour and minute discs are each studded with 119 white diamonds—hexagonal, baguette-cut, and overlapping—with one red ruby to indicate the hours and minutes. A total of 108 white diamonds form the outer ring of the 50mm case, made from 18-karat rose gold case, with 12 diamonds indicated as hour markers. The in-house movement offers 60-hour power reserve. Instead of a crown, the watch is wound using the two bows located on the caseback. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal is used for the glass and caseback.

The hour and minute disks on the Mystery Rose Gold And Diamond watch are each studded with 119 white diamonds—hexagonal, baguette-cut, and overlapping—with one red ruby to indicate the hours and minutes

Instead of a crown, the watch is wound using the two bows located on the caseback

Brilliant Mystery Baguette White Diamonds Rose Gold

The Brilliant Mystery Baguette White Diamonds Rose Gold, with floating bezel, is a vision in white and red gold, studded with a total of 371 baguette-cut white diamonds—172 baguette-cut white diamonds on the case, 51 on the dial, 40 on the dial ring, 40 on the inner set ring, 40 on the bezel, and 28 on the buckle. Appearing like two perky ears are the hour and minute hands shaped as two floating black triangles. A robust, yet delicate-looking frame, mnade from polished 18-karat rose gold outlines the 44mm case, with a caseback in antireflective sapphire crystal. This watch is powered by in-house Swiss quartz JCGQ03 calibre. Similar to the Brilliant above, the time on this one is also set using a bow in the caseback, as opposed to a conventional crown. The 18-piece limited-edition watch comes attached to a satin strap secured with an 18-karat rose gold tang buckle.

The Jacob & Co Brilliant Mystery Baguette White Diamonds Rose Gold with floating bezel is a vision in white and red gold, studded with a total of 371 baguette-cut white diamonds

A robust, yet delicate-looking frame from polished 18-karat rose gold outlines the 44mm case, and an antireflective sapphire crystal protects the caseback

Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Tsavorites White Gold

The Jacob & Co Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Tsavorites White Gold mesmerises for the striking similarity in shape, size, and hue seen in all the gemstones across each one of the 18 timepieces in this limited edition. Each dial took nearly to three years to create, as the makers invested time in finding 338 baguette-cut tsavorites in the same shade of green. This was done to ensure that not a single tsavorite sticks out like sore thumb when bedded on the 47mm case made from 18-karat rose gold. Interrupting the concentric circles of tsavorites from below the watch hands to six o’clock is the one-minute flying tourbillon, complete with a balance wheel, gold timing screw, and an effective Incabloc shock protection system. Powering the bejewelled watch is the in-house, manual-winding JCAM43 calibre, composed of 216 parts and 21 jewels, which beats at 28,800vph with 42-hour power reserve. With a caseback in antireflective sapphire crystal, the caseback comes attached with a strap in green alligator leather strap or white satin. The strap is to be secured with an 18-karat white gold deployant buckle, studded with 18 baguette-cut tsavorites.

Interrupting the tsavorites arranged in concentric circles on the Flying Tourbillon Tsavorites White Gold from below the watch hands to six o’clock is the one-minute flying tourbillon

Powering the bejewelled watch is the in-house hand-wound JCAM43 automatic calibre, composed of 216 parts and 21 jewels, which beats at 28,800vph with 42-hour power reserve