Round-UpIconic IWC: 10 Timepieces That Exemplify The Brand’s Instant Identity

Timepieces by IWC have a reputation for being remarkably crafted, and rightly so. This brand from Schaffhausen, Switzerland, have been living up to their motto, ‘Probus Scafusia’, a Latin phrase meaning ‘good, solid craftsmanship from Schaffhausen’, ever since it was founded by American watchmaker and entrepreneur Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868. IWC’s portfolio includes brand pillars that are favourites of many—from professional pilots and Hollywood A-listers to any regular gentleman with fine taste. While the Pilot’s collection has some of the best aviation timepieces ever created, the Portugieser and Portofino lines celebrate the brand’s classical, pared-down appeal. And while the Da Vinci line presents their instant identity through distinctive design, the Ingenieur range exemplifies the archetypal steel sport watch. For this brand, the decoration of each component takes centre stage—from traditional techniques of engraving on movement components, to the pristine decoration of their dials and their elements. Here are some of the brand’s most outstanding watches from their contemporary collections that celebrate the refinement that IWC have become synonymous with.

Portugieser Chronograph

Formerly known as the ‘Portuguese’ collection, Portugieser goes back to a line of watches that originated in the 1930s. When the Art Deco influence was increasing, IWC decided to go another way, drawing inspiration instead from the minimalism of Germany’s erstwhile Bauhaus school of design. One of the watches that were the outcome of this inspiration was later targeted at Portugal, when IWC received a very specific demand from there, as they were looking at expanding their market. Ironically, after calling the watch Portuguese, Portugal was not the first country where it was sold. Eventually, the minimalism, accuracy and functionality of that watch led to the Portugieser collection as we know it today—an IWC bestseller for sure. The Portugieser Chronograph, in particular, has a lot of takers and it seems to do well in every colour that the brand introduce the watch in. Here we have it in gold with a blue dial, and in steel with a white or green dial. There are two white dial editions, in fact—with golden markers and a black leather strap, and with blue markers and a strap in a complementing hue. The vertical bicompax layout of the dials includes the 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock and the small seconds at six, with snailed detailing that contrasts the sunray finishing on the rest of the dial, adding textural splendour. Sized at 40.9mm, each of these chronographs runs on the IWC-manufactured automatic calibre 69355, which offers a decent power reserve of 46 hours. You can see the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback, while the sapphire crystal of the glass is convex and has an antireflective coating. These watches are water-resistant to 30m.

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Portugieser Automatic

The Portugieser Automatic’s massive seven-day power reserve is made possible by the use of two barrels and the Pellaton winding system constructed with ceramic to reduce wear and tear. The 42.3mm stainless steel case encloses the in-house calibre 52010, which beats at 28,800vph. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, this movement is decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage patterns and features 31 jewels. On the face of the watch, a sturdy, convex sapphire crystal glass makes the dial more legible due to the antireflective coating on both sides. What one sees through the glass are two sub-dials in a bicompax layout—the small seconds at nine and a power reserve indicator at three o’clock. With applied Arabic numeral hour markers and hands that match, the white dial editions have these markers in blue or a gold hue, and come with a blue or black leather strap, respectively. Aside from these steel variants, there is also a rose gold edition, which comes with a rich blue dial and a complementing strap. With such refined details, and a very hefty power reserve, the Portugieser Automatic is the complete package indeed.

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Portugieser Perpetual Calendar

The brand have declared that ‘no other complication expresses IWC’s values quite as eloquently as the perpetual calendar developed by legendary watchmaker, Kurt Klaus in the 1980s’. The celebrated watchmaker created what, in the decades ahead, would become one of IWC’s biggest claims to fame—the first, fully-synchronised perpetual calendar that could be adjusted using only the time-setting crown. Since then, IWC have celebrated this complication like no other. No collection or set of releases is complete without at least one flagship perpetual calendar edition. So obviously, the Portugieser collection does, too. This one here is a 2020 edition, with a blue dial featuring a radiant sunray finish that contrasts brilliantly with the snailed detailing of the sub-dials. The dial’s 18-karat gold markers match the 42.4mm case, and signature leaf-shaped hands. At nine o’clock on the dial, we see the day of the week and the leap year indicator, while at three, the date is displayed in an analogue format, and towards six o’clock, we see the moon phase indicator, surrounded by the months. Running this signature complication is the IWC calibre 82650, which can store a significant power reserve of up to 60 hours. The movement can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. Water-resistant to 30m, the case comes affixed with a blue alligator leather strap—made by Santoni, the Italian leather goods manufacturer.

IWC Portugieser

₹29,52,000

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Da Vinci Automatic 36

IWC’s Da Vinci collection is all about drawing a fine balance between beauty and technology, which is how it got its name. The brand believe that no other individual represents that kind of symbiosis. Early Da Vinci models presented a lot of firsts in watchmaking—the first quartz wristwatch made in Switzerland, the first watch case in black ceramic, and the legendary perpetual calendar by Kurt Klaus. Over the years, the collection has become more mainstream, and has garnered appeal from a wider audience, becoming a strong pillar for the brand. A more contemporary Da Vinci, this three-hand automatic is set in a 40mm case of steel, featuring a smooth bezel and singular lugs with two horns each, which are characteristic elements of the modern-day Da Vinci line. The black leather strap is complemented by the black details on the dial, including the date at six and the brand emblem at 12 o’clock. And then, offset against the black-and-white base are the striking applied Arabic numeral hour markers, and hour and minute hands in a gold hue, along with the blued seconds hand. The fine display is clearer owing to the convex sapphire crystal glass, with an antireflective coating on both sides. Inside the 30m-water-resistant case is the self-winding calibre 35111, which offers a standard power reserve of 42 hours.

A more contemporary Da Vinci, this three-hand automatic is set in a 40mm case of steel, featuring a smooth bezel and singular lugs with two horns each, which are characteristic elements of the modern-day Da Vinci line

Big Pilot’s Watch ‘Le Petit Prince’

The Big Pilot’s ‘Le Petite Prince’ is a fantastic tribute to the popular novella Le Petit Prince or The Little Prince, written by famous French pilot and writer, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. The story is about a young prince who travels through space, while it addresses friendship, loneliness, love, and loss. Even though it is presented as a children’s book, The Little Prince offers some interesting insights on life and the human condition that anyone can relate with. An illustration of the titular prince is engraved on the steel caseback of this watch. However on the face of it, this Big Pilot’s is as classic and clean as an aviation timepiece can get. With the dial featuring the standard oversized Arabic numeral hour markers of a pilot’s watch, other staples include the oversized onion-shaped crown, which is meant to make adjustment easy even when the user is wearing flying gloves. At 46.2mm, and water-resistant to about 60m, the steel case makes for a large, wholesome-looking timepiece. Set within is the IWC-manufactured automatic calibre 52110, which offers a power reserve of up to seven days. This reserve is also indicated on the dial at three o’clock. A riveted brown leather strap completes the look of this watch.

IWC Pilot’s Watches

₹11,44,000

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Pilot’s Watch Automatic Top Gun

While they may not be known particularly for their ceramic watches today, the fact is that IWC were actually the first brand to create a wristwatch in ceramic. And since then, they have made great strides with the material, occasionally launching impressive novelties that boast all the benefits of ceramic, including its hardness and scratch resistance. From the Pilot’s Watch collection is this Automatic Top Gun, which is from a series named after the US Navy’s Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor programme, which trains some of the finest US Navy pilots. Sized at 41mm, this ceramic timepiece is water-resistant to 60m, and comes with a caseback in steel with an engraving of the Top Gun emblem. The words ‘Top Gun’ are emblazoned on the dial as well—the only element in red, in an otherwise black-and-white face. In a white luminescent material, the aviation-style oversized Arabic numerals and the hands ensure optimum readability, even at a quick glance. The crown here is large, but is more conventional and smaller than the onion-shaped crowns of the Big Pilot’s range. The three-hand timekeeping and date run on the self-winding calibre 32110, which can store a significant power reserve of 72 hours.

This Pilot’s Automatic Top Gun is from a series named after the US Navy’s Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor programme, which trains some of the finest US Navy pilots

₹5,69,000

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Sized at 41mm, this ceramic timepiece is water-resistant to 60m, and comes with a caseback in steel with an engraving of the Top Gun emblem

₹5,69,000

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The words ‘Top Gun’ are emblazoned on the dial as well—the only element in red, in an otherwise black-and-white face

₹5,69,000

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Aquatimer Automatic

Any brand worth its salt has its own signature dive watch collection. And for IWC, it’s their Aquatimer range. The collection goes back to 1967, when IWC unveiled the Aquatimer 812 AD, their first watch that was truly water-resistant—up to 200m. The Aquatimer has evolved a lot since then, with several updates. Today’s Aquatimers are from the 2014 reintroduced collection. Exemplifying a very sturdy tool watch appearance, these Aquatimers seen here actually have a very interesting rotating bezel, which isn’t all that common in dive watches. It’s an internal/external rotating bezel. Inner rotating bezels, on the flange of the dial are not uncommon, but one that rotates when you rotate the external bezel definitely is. That makes these dive watches quite special, apart from being completely robust and reliable instruments that are water-resistant to 300m. The dial features bold markers, including the date, with different coloured lume on the hour and minute hands to enhance readability in the dark or underwater even more. The 42mm case of each version houses the automatic calibre 30120, which offers a standard 42-hour power reserve. While the black dial-steel bracelet Aquatimer is a regular edition, the blue dial-rubber strap version seen here is the Aquatimer ‘Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau’, named after Jacques-Yves Cousteau, who was a French naval officer, explorer of the sea and marine life, among several other things. A motif of his portrait is engraved on the caseback as well.

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Portofino Chronograph

This popular model from the highly sought-after Portofino collection has an elegant appeal that harks back to the timepieces from the 1960s, and those that celebrate the leisurely lifestyle of the Mediterranean and the Italian Riviera in particular. Named after Portofino—the Italian fishing village that is also a very popular holiday destination—featured here are the chronograph editions of the collection. They showcase clean dials that feature distinct baton-style applied hour markers, and classic leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. The 42mm stainless steel case, water-resistant to 30m, houses the automatic calibre 75320, based on the popular Sellita calibre SW500-1. It beats at 28,800vph and can store a power reserve of up to 44 hours. At six and 12 o’clock, the 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph sub-dials are distinguished in size, as compared with the small seconds sub-dial at nine, while the very handy day and date at three o’clock are very elegantly framed. The antireflective coating on both sides of the convex sapphire crystal glass enhances the clarity of the dial from all angles. With the dial in blue, or a silvery hue, the Portofino Chronograph features golden markers and a black leather strap. There is also a variant of the latter with markers to match the case, and a strap in brown.

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Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days

As the name suggests, this exquisite, manual-winding timepiece comes with an impressive eight-day power reserve. It is crafted in a polished 45mm stainless steel case housing the in-house calibre 59210. This watch gets its distinguished look with the use of rhodium-plated baton-style hour markers, and the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. The silvery hue of these details stand out against the sophisticated sunray-finished dial in grey, which is beautifully complemented by a shaded brown leather strap. These colours really do make for a very rich combination together. The small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock and the power reserve indicator at nine feature striking red accents. Water-resistant to 30m, the watch comes with a transparent caseback that gives you a view of the Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement.

This 45mm steel watch gets its distinguished look with the use of rhodium-plated baton-style hour markers, and the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands

Offering an eight-day power reserve, the manual-winding in-house calibre 59210 within can be seen through the transparent caseback

IWC Portofino

₹8,60,000

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Portofino Automatic 37

Bringing a little dazzle into the Portofino collection is this 37mm steel edition featuring a bezel paved with diamonds. Mirroring the cut of the stones, the numerals of the minute markers on the chapter ring are replaced with dots, while the rest of the dial is also sectioned to enhance the look of the sunray-brushed surface as well as the stepped frame of the date aperture at three o’clock. The convex sapphire crystal glass, with an antireflective coating on both sides, ensures a clear view of the refined display. Running the show is the automatic calibre 35111, which beats at 28,800vph and offers a standard power reserve of 42 hours. Water-resistant to 30m, the steel case comes fitted with a blue leather strap that perfectly complements the dial.