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ReviewPoetry Punctuated In Hobnail: Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80

The Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 range seduces with its two-tone hues, clous de Paris dials, and a reliable automatic movement promising an 80-hour power reserve

Ornella D’Souza January 30, 2024

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Basing a watch name or collection after a place of significance to the brand is a longstanding trend. Nomos and Muhle added ‘Glashütte’ to their names as a proud assertion of their roots and assurance of high quality given the horology legacy of the German watchmaking town. Even TAG Heuer named its inconic square chronograph watch after the principality of Monaco, the European country noted for its annual Formula One motor race Monaco Grand Prix. Going by this trajectory, Tissot commemorated their 150th anniversary by launching a brand new collection in 2003 after the Swiss town nestled in the Jura Mountains, Le Locle, home to the brand’s headquarters since 1853. The Le Locle line features dress watches with signatures such as 39mm cases, two-tone interpretations, textured clous de Paris dials, Roman numerals, which define the term, ‘classic chic’. Additionally, the Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 versions are those that offer an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

Tissot TClassic Le Locle Powermatic 80 316L stainless steel case with Roman numerals date aperture — The Le Locle line features dress watches with signatures such as 39mm cases, two-tone interpretations, textured clous de Paris dials, Roman numerals, which define the term, ‘classic chic’

The Le Locle And Its Resilient Movement: The Powermatic 80

The Le Locle line defines understated elegance. Its slim profile measuring 10mm makes it easy to slip under the cuff. Available in 316L stainless steel or in combination with rose gold PVD-treated elements, their case and integrated bracelet are given a neat, polished finish and vertically brushed surface. Carrying forward these traits is the Le Locle Powermatic 80 range. To commemorate the 20th anniversary of this range (first launched in 2003), Tissot released a blue-and-silver Powermatic 80 version in the second half of 2023.

Powered by the Powermatic 80 calibre, alias 80.601, the automatic winding movement counts on the reliable ETA 2824-2 movement post mechanical upgrade. On a side note, both Tissot and ETA belong to the Swatch Group. Fitted with 23 jewels, the movement uses the Novodiac hairspring by Incabloc for improved shock resistance and anti-magnetic properties. Additionally, ‘Powermatic 80’ implies an 80-hour power reserve, made possible with the incorporation of an improved effective spring barrel, and reduced frequency from 4Hz to 3Hz (21,600vph). To operate the movement, pull out the crown. One stop with clockwise turn will adjust the date, and another stop will adjust the time. To manually wind the watch, press the crown all the way in and rotate it clockwise.

Earlier rose gold PVD versions feature alternating diamond studs with Roman font markers
To operate the movement to adjust the date or time, pull out the crown embossed with the brand logo 'T'.
Breaking the geometric perfection of elements is the beautiful cursive font used for ‘Le Locle’ collection title placed above the six o’clock hour marker, while a small date aperture sits at three o’clock
While partial views of the Powermatic 80 movement are visible from the caseback, this watch is a unique example where the back is far more decorative than the dial

Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 Shop The Collection

While partial views of the Powermatic 80 movement are visible from the caseback, this watch is a unique example where the back is far more decorative than the dial. This Le Locle caseback features intricate engraving, along with the version name, serial number, year of inception, water resistance, ‘high-tech’ escapement engraved on the rotor, among other detailing.

The Open-Heart Symphony Of Le Locle

One of the latest versions in the collection is the Le Locle Powermatic 80 Open Heart; a dial layout similar to the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Open Heart. Poetically speaking, the timepiece seems like the mechanical representation of the term ‘wearing your heart on your sleeve’, with an aperture below 12 o’clock, appearing like a peephole, offering direct views of the balance and its hairspring.

A Dial Of Finer Details

All Le Locle dials have a simple layout, Roman numeral hour markers in a legible font, along with leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. Neither the indexes nor the hands feature applied lume. Making the coaxial area the cynosure is the embossed clous de Paris pattern that also features on the slim chapter ring. The hobnail design offers vivid contrast against the thick ring in brushed finish that displays applied hour markers. Earlier rose gold PVD versions feature diamond studs alternating with Roman numeral hour markers. Breaking the geometric perfection of elements is the Le Locle collection title in a beautiful cursive font placed above the six o’clock hour marker, while a small date aperture sits at three o’clock. Sapphire crystal protects the dial.

The Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 offers two strap options: blue faux-alligator leather strap or seven-link steel bracelet with folding clasp. With its distinct play of textures, bright and dark metal hues, and a ‘beating open heart’, the Powermatic 80 line that sets it apart from other formal, business-like dress watches in the contemporary horological market.