FeatureA Flying Tribute: The 2020 Longines Spirit Collection Is An Ode To Pilot’s Watches
Inspired by legendary aviators and explorers who relied upon the brand’s pioneering technology in establishing world records and breaking barriers; the new Spirit collection salutes their daredevil attitude with a blend of classic and sporty navigation timepieces
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Over eight decades ago, a woman dared to challenge societal norms as she let her dreams soar and conquer the lofty skies. On May 20, 1932, American aviator Amelia Earhart sealed her place in the annals of history as she became the first woman to fly solo across the Atlantic Ocean. Earhart helmed a red Lockheed Vega 5B airliner and completed the non-stop flight in 14 hours and 56 minutes—timed to perfection by her Longines chronograph that served as a faithful companion in her quest to attempt the transatlantic journey. She left Newfoundland, Canada, and landed a day later, at a pasture near Londonderry, Northern Ireland. The intended destination was Paris, but Earhart was blown off course since she had to brave harsh icy winds and mechanical failures onboard. But the wristwatch prevailed and soon upon her return to the US, while she became the first woman recipient of the Distinguished Flying Cross—a military decoration; she telegrammed the Longines manufacture in Switzerland, vouching for the ‘reliability and accuracy’ of the record-setting stopwatch that made two air crossings, earning the badge of a horological marvel, back then.
And celebrating this spirit of exploration and airborne conquests, the Saint-Imier-based company have launched the spanking new Longines Spirit collection that salutes the bravado of mavericks such as Amelia Earhart, Paul-Émile Victor, Elinor Smith and Howard Hughes—who undertook challenging expeditions whether in air, on land or at sea. Inspired by the timepieces used by these legendary explorers, who put their faith in the brand with its trademark winged hourglass logo (which is still used today and is also an indication of the manufacture’s expertise in navigation watches); Longines have ensured that they retain the pioneering spirit with state-of-the-art technology, equipping the new collection with highly accurate five-star chronometer-certified movements.
A Tryst With Navigation
Though synonymous with equestrian pursuits since 1878, thanks to a patented single push-piece chronograph created by watchmaker Alfred Lugrin that was used to time horse races, Longines are no strangers to the world of aviation. In fact, a large part of the early 20th century for the company was dedicated to navigation timepieces as the popularity of its chronographs surged due to various sporting events, which resulted in an increased demand for precision timekeeping instruments. Shortly after the end of World War I, in 1919, Longines were named the official suppliers for the International Aeronautical Federation. That’s when the company started focusing on developing faultless navigation instruments for aviation pioneers and enthusiasts. In 1931, Longines collaborated with Charles A Lindbergh (the first person to undertake a solo transatlantic flight in 1927), to introduce the Hour Angle aviation watch. The robust 47.5mm timekeeper’s bezel allowed pilots to calculate the longitude, which when combined with their latitude helped them track their exact geographical location—a simple function that we take for granted nowadays, thanks to the GPS in our smartphones.
The same year, American aviator Elinor Smith—the youngest licensed pilot in the world at I6, blacked out while flying at 30,000ft, trying to break the world altitude record. Her plane dropped towards the ground but Smith woke up at the last minute and managed to land safely. Ten days later, she soared even higher and set a new record at 32,576ft, with her trusted Longines watch strapped onto her wrist. She, too, attested the brand’s dependability in such crucial situations where she entrusted the plane and her life to the performance of the timepiece.
French explorer Paul-Émile Victor spent seven weeks crossing the Greenland ice cap in 1936. Even in the harshest weather conditions (up to -40°C), his Longines chronometers continued to work seamlessly, helping him to calculate longitude. “These watches made the difference between failure and success,” Victor later stated. He devoted his entire life to polar expeditions.
Noted filmmaker, pilot and philanthropist Howard Hughes’ globe-girdling flight record was also timed by Longines in I938. He is perhaps best-known for using the Longines Sidérograph—an on-board device for celestial navigation that was especially created for him and patented by the company. With the name derived from ‘sidereal’ or ‘star time’, the instrument’s rotating bezel made calculating geographical positions easier, which helped in determining the momentary position of an aircraft. His crew relied on Longines’ chronometer watches for navigation, and wore second-setting watches for observation. Hughes achieved this feat in three days, 19 hours and 14 minutes.
Past Meets Present
While the Spirit watches are inspired by the past, they’re out-and-out modern, meeting the technological standards of the 21st century. While back then they were used purely for navigational purposes, in the present scenario these watches are sought after, not only because they are useful but also because they’re extremely sophisticated in appeal. Linking heritage with innovation, the new models retain traditional features from pilot’s watches and combine them with contemporary lines and codes. The oversized crown, the flange, the pronounced step around the glass, the dial, the diamond-shape indexes and the large, luminous baton hands—are all elements from aviation watches’ days of yore. With subtle tweaks and upgradations, they blend beautifully with the overall contemporary design. Additionally, great care has been taken with the various finishes on the details—brushed, matt, polished or in relief.
Precision And Elegance
Long before 1991, when Longines took on its present tagline, ‘Elegance is an attitude’, it was known as ‘The world’s most honoured watch’, for the most part of the 20th century. This was complemented by the technological savoir faire in its movement manufacturing, with a few very iconic calibres to its credit. A fine example is calibre 20A—the first movement produced by Longines. Other noteworthy movements include calibre 19.73—a double-sided chronograph, the patented calibre 13ZN with 30-minute and 60-minute counters, and the slim calibre 340 with a 3.45mm thickness that kick-started the brand’s quest for ultrathin movements. The Spirit collection, too, boasts supreme technical prowess as the range is powered by self-winding movements (L888.4 and L688.4) with silicon hairsprings to guarantee extreme accuracy and longevity. The calibres, with a power reserve of 64 and 6O hours respectively, are chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The advanced technology of this new collection is also complemented by the domed sapphire crystal glass with multi-layered antireflective coating on both sides, a screw-in crown, and an engraved caseback secured with six screws.
Permutations And Combinations
Although, timepieces in the Spirit collection take their cues from the pilot’s watches of yesteryears when newer vistas were being explored both in aviation and horology; the newer models have adapted themselves to the urbane lifestyles of globetrotters, jet-setters or the ones merely looking for a classic piece. Yes, you heard that right! The maison have ingeniously combined the utility of a tool watch along with the understated elegance of a timepiece that’s suited for any occasion. So, the wearer will not be weighed down by the bulkiness that is usually associated with such watches or be restricted when it comes to combining it with different ensembles.
Available in three-hand/calendar models (40mm and 42mm) and chronograph versions (42mm), with matt-black, grained-silver or sunray-finished blue dials—all stamped with five applied stars that indicate the movement’s efficiency; these watches are presented on dark brown, light brown or blue leather straps. They can also be bought with stainless steel straps if you’re not a big fan of leather or are living in more humid conditions. This ensures that the wearer, is in no way, at a loss of options. The case thickness stands at about 15mm with brushed lugs, polished and chamfered edges—a mark of distinguished craftsmanship. The sleek bezel helps in striking the balance between a classic and a sporty timepiece, while the chapter ring on the dial and the various counters (for the chronograph) keep up with the narrative of a sports watch. The pusher at the 10 o’clock position, is to jump days on the date function, along with providing the symmetry for a sports complication. The stainless steel caseback is engraved with the winged hourglass logo—the brand’s tribute to spearheading the spirit of aviation.
Ground Control
Longines watches, thanks to their reliability, accuracy, robustness and innovation, have contributed to the success of numerous pioneering exploits. They have accompanied explorers on their journeys and have stood the test of time, even after being put through gruelling tasks, harsh climatic conditions, while also shattering stereotypes, considering aviation was mostly regarded a male bastion where few women were allowed to carve a niche for themselves. The Spirit collection gives its wearers agency, just like it did for its patrons back then, when they set out to record their path-breaking journeys for future generations.
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