ReviewA Sartorial Approach To Watchmaking: Introducing Parmigiani’s All-New Tonda PF Collection
To mark their 25th anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier have given their Tonda collection a facelift, with the new Tonda PF range. Comprising four distinct models, the collection comes with a host of different updates and offers timepieces that exemplify the brand’s philosophy of prioritising substance over opulence
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This year, Parmigiani Fleurier are celebrating their 25th anniversary. The brand was founded by the celebrated watchmaker and watch restorer, Michel Parmigiani, who was backed and funded by the Sandoz Family Foundation—a private foundation known for promoting creativity and personal initiatives. The brand’s niche clientele prefers refinement and substance over opulence and extravagance. Best recognised for their rare, low-key designs and ground-breaking in-house movements, the watchmakers offer a wide array of collections, ranging from sport-chic to classical, from slim and simple to highly complicated.
Now, to mark their silver jubilee, they have gone through a makeover with the introduction of the brand-new Tonda PF series. Consisting of a time-and-date model, a chronograph, an annual calendar and a special edition split-second chronograph, the range offers the first three iterations in 18-karat rose gold or stainless steel and the last one in platinum. Notably, these are the first set of watches to have come out under the guidance of the new Parmigiani CEO, Guido Terreni—former head of watches for Bulgari. Although the latest timepieces feature several design and display updates coupled with a sense of contemporary luxury, they retain the brand’s distinct visual identity and remain true to their original ethos of imperceptible refinement, entire dedication to exclusivity and modern permanence.
Tonda PF: An Amalgamation Of Classical And Modern Features
At first glance, the new Tonda PF models might appear like the Tondagraphe GT—unveiled by the brand back in 2020—but they present much more refined and streamlined aesthetics. The timepieces aren’t just thinner and more elegant than their predecessors but they’re also a seamless combination of the classic Parmigiani features and modern components. What the brand have done here is pair their pretty familiar round-case (and their signature curved lugs) with an all-new flexible integrated bracelet that’s supple and sits beautifully on the wrist. Meanwhile, the display of the timepieces features arguably the most notable update of the collection. At the 12 o’clock position of the dials, we get to see the new Parmigiani emblem. The ‘PF’ logo now appears in a vertical, oval, double-framed appliqué with extensive finishing that looks understated and discreet. In addition to the Grain d’Orge guilloche pattern, which is consistent across all the models of the series, the watches feature gold open-worked hands, fluted coin edge-style bezel taken from the original Tonda line, and applied hour markers set across two levels of the dial.
Up until this point, the aforementioned attributes are common among all four models of the collection. However, each timepiece comes with a host of specific features and movements that make them completely unique and quite distinct from each other. So, let’s take a deep dive into each of these iterations of the Tonda PF range.
Tonda PF Micro-Rotor: A Simple Yet Elegant Offering
An entry-point into the new range, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is the most pared-down variant among its siblings with a central, two-hand timekeeping system. Sized at a compact 40mm, the watch exemplifies the ‘rich minimalism’ approach of the brand and features a warm grey, matt guilloche dial that displays a rectangular date window at six o’clock—the date disc is the exact same colour as the minute track’s, creating a consistent colourway. Under the hood, we have the ultra-slim, self-winding in-house movement, the PF703, which comes along with a platinum micro-rotor and runs at a frequency of 21,600vph. Capable of storing 48 hours of power reserve, the movement is visible through the transparent caseback and adorned with exquisite decorations.
Tonda PF Chronograph: A High-Beat Sporty Alternative
Unlike the other high-frequency chronographs that sport bold racing colours, the Tonda PF Chronograph is an authentic dress watch to its core and yet exudes sporty vibes. Available in stainless steel or rose gold—just like the micro-rotor and annual calendar models—the timepiece features the same guilloche dial but in a rich, dark blue colour. Presenting sheer finesse and skilled craftsmanship, the display comes with three sub-dials at the three, six and nine o’clock positions in addition to a date aperture between four and five. However, the icing on the cake is the column wheel-operated calibre PF070, which is attached to an open-worked oscillating weight in 22-karat rose gold with a central PF logo medallion. Beating at a whopping frequency of 36,000vph, the movement provides a power reserve of 65 hours and can be admired through an exhibition caseback. What’s more, to add to the charm of this 42mm watch, the designers have equipped it with cushion-shaped pushers that perfectly complement the flowing curvature of the case design.
Tonda PF Annual Calendar: A Delightfully Complicated Timepiece
Slightly more complicated than the chronograph model, the Tonda PF Annual Calendar showcases the updated visual language of Parmigiani’s well-known calendar complication. Displaying a retrograde day, date, month and 122-year moon phase display, for both hemispheres, the grey dial comes with three usual time-telling hands and provides character and charm to the timekeeper. Also, to ensure a well-balanced and aesthetically pleasing look of the display, the watchmakers have pushed the date outward onto flange, which is flawlessly executed. Powered by the automatic calibre PF339 that has a frequency of 28,800vph, the timepiece offers a power reserve of 50 hours. Just like the chronograph variant, the Tonda PF Annual Calendar also features a skeleton rotor in 22-karat rose gold.
Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph: An Homage To 25 Years Of Parmigiani’s High-End Watchmaking
In a nutshell, the Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph is the show stealer of this collection. With its case, bracelet and dial crafted from platinum, the timepiece pays tribute to the 25th anniversary of the brand and is limited to just 25 units. The silver-coloured dial is visually arresting and features a sandblasted finish along with a tachymeter scale on its periphery. Comprising three counters at nine, six and three o’clock, the display comes with a combination of white and gold hands to separate the indications. The 42mm Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph houses an extraordinary and one of the most complicated movements by Parmigiani, the calibre PF361. The beautifully open-worked movement features the mainplate and bridges in solid 18-karat rose gold. Not only this, it’s intricately designed, satin-finished and bevelled by hand without coming off as ostentatious. Running at a frequency of 36,000vph, the PF361 is fully equipped to time two events that start at the same moment—but may not end together—down to a 10th of a second.
The new Tonda PF collection isn’t built simply to please everyone. The models are crafted to allure those who have a taste for refinement, as they showcase the watchmakers’ ability to build high-quality timepieces without giving a sense of extravagance. Terreni says, “We have conceived the Tonda PF for the watchmaking purists of tomorrow. An uncompromising crowd of a select few, seeking personal hedonistic pleasure, who are savvy in watchmaking, appreciate sartorial craft on their timepieces, and have a strong sense of style and refinement.”