Q&AParmigiani’s CEO On The Brand That Is ‘The Selfless Golden Heart Of The Industry’

How have your past experiences with brands such as Chopard and Corum informed your approach towards Parmigiani?

I was already acquainted with Michel Parmigiani’s way of thinking and working because I was with Chopard when he was behind the origin of the L.U.C collection, and that was also in Fleurier, where Parmigiani is. However, my big learning with Chopard was understanding the lady consumer, since watchmaking in general is much too masculine, in management as well as in conception of products. My experience at Corum gave me thorough knowledge of the trade, the players internationally, and the extent of travel that I put into it was important.

What, according to you, are the true values of watchmaking?

How do Parmigiani’s origins in restoration inform the brand’s watchmaking perspective?

Restoration is a key element in the understanding of Parmigiani. The will to maintain the patrimony of high-end watches made through the centuries drives us to offer our know-how and our skills to the industry for restoration as well as production of components of new watches. Watchmaking comes with a certain selfishness, with watchmakers wanting to keep their knowledge a secret. With our restoration and then production, our manufactures became a hub of sharing knowledge. So there’s this selflessness in our approach that is completely different.

Describe the brand’s DNA in one sentence.

I think we’re the selfless golden heart of the industry. That’s how I would describe us.

Talk about Parmigiani’s highlights of the year.

One of them is the work we did on the slate grey dials in the Toric and Tonda collections. The finishing is enhanced by the neutrality of the colour. Then with the Kalpagraphe in rubber and titanium, and the skeleton dial, we try to bring the brand to a younger and slightly more daring consumer.

“One of [2019's highlights] is the work we did on the slate grey dials in the Toric and Tonda collections. The finishing is enhanced by the neutrality of the colour,” explains Traxler.

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The sublime shade of slate grey works wonders on these new textured dials of the Toric Chronometre (left) and the Hemispheres Retrograde, which looks splendid in natural light

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Is there going to be more of a focus on that side of the spectrum?

We are seeing that the overall world interest in the classical watch on a leather strap is reducing. We are noticing that consumers are clearly drifting towards something that is sport-chic, something that can be worn during the day, in humid climate, or even in the shower. We see that happening clearly. And that’s something that we have to adapt to.

“With the Kalpagraphe in rubber and titanium, and the skeleton dial, we try to bring the brand to a younger and slightly more daring consumer,” Traxler reveals

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“We are noticing that consumers are clearly drifting towards something that is sport-chic, something that can be worn during the day, in humid climate, or even in the shower,” he adds

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What’s your favourite novelty from 2019?

I adore ladies’ watches. I particularly like the ladies’ moon phase watches and the rainbow watch this year. I find the rainbow full of happiness and fun. And maybe it’s also because we live within the clouds there in Switzerland, so I like to see the colours of the rainbow. I would say it’s something amusing and different that we’ve brought to the brand.

Traxler reveals that as a person from the watch industry, he's partial towards ladies' watches and the creation of a feminine aesthetic, especially since 'watchmaking is much too masculine'. “I adore ladies’ watches. I particularly like ladies’ moon phase watches,” he says. Seen here is the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy with a moon phase indicator.

“I find the [Tonda 1950] rainbow full of happiness and fun. And maybe it’s also because we live within the clouds there in Switzerland, so I like to see the colours of the rainbow. I would say it’s something amusing and different that we’ve brought to the brand,” Traxler expresses.

Talk about your association with Hermès. Do they actually make all of your leather straps?

It’s most of our watches that have leather straps. Just from time to time if there’s a colour we want to do, and they’re not comfortable with that execution, then we go another way. The relationship is now a longstanding one. For us it’s an honour that our hub produces movements for their watches, we are partners in our factories in Vaucher. And at the same time, we have the honour of using their straps. The whole thing works well together. Hermès is recognised among those luxury brands that have had long-term success. So that’s good for us.

What advice would you give to a novice watch enthusiast about selecting a watch?

I would say gather information, look around, and invest in what you feel comfortable with. It’s something that is very personal. I think we all have memories of watches and moments that are not always tied to the strength of the brand.