Q&ATurning The Tide: Maurice Lacroix’s CEO On Their Novelties And Initiatives
Stéphane Waser, CEO, Maurice Lacroix, talks about sustainability, gender neutrality, and how competition is a huge motivator for innovation and quality
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How do the 2022 novelties take the brand forward?
We’ve been quite successful with the Aikon line since we launched the quartz version in 2016 and mechanical in 2018. Today, over 75 percent of our sales is of Aikon. But there are other opportunities, especially in the segment of mechanicals priced from EUR 1,000 to 3,000. We have a beautiful product in the Pontos—elegant, sophisticated and more classical than the Aikon. In 2022, we’ve launched the Pontos S Chronograph, which also marks 10 years of the Pontos S series.
How do the creative team decide on what to do?
We work a lot based on customer feedback. So, trade fairs are beautiful opportunities to present watches that will come in the future, to customers and journalists. We think of the evolution of the collections, figure out what’s missing, what can be removed, and so on. What we’ve done with the Aikon—building it up with functions—is what we think gives a collection breadth.
How did the Aikon Tide come about?
Back in 2019, we started thinking about sustainability, and started discussions with suppliers. Then the pandemic hit, and things weren’t moving along. Soon, we had a chance with one of our suppliers, who also owns Tide Ocean. He presented us with the material. We started testing and checking if it was possible to make the case out of this material. That’s how the watch is called Aikon Tide. Every watch contributes a little in taking some plastic out of the ocean. Every drop makes a tide!
In a world that’s becoming more gender-neutral, can brands step back from labelling watches as meant for women or men?
At Maurice Lacroix, today, we don’t say ladies’ or men’s anymore. It’s only about size. People can choose whatever suits them. Tide is an example of being completely gender-neutral. It’s only in one size, which suits anyone. Even the versions with diamonds have not been pegged as being for ladies.
Do you think the Apple watch has benefited Swiss watchmaking, rather than the threat it seemingly posed?
You mentioned it. First of all, it took volumes away from the quartz segment, because now you had a digital watch that could do anything. But Apple watches aren’t even about time. It’s a version of your smartphone on your wrist. I always believed that it wasn’t a threat to mechanical watches. If you want a nice timepiece to wear and enjoy, then you wouldn’t go for the Apple.
Consider the MoonSwatch—just like the smartwatch, it brought attention back to wearable Swiss watches. In that sense, competition is good. It shakes up the market and makes people wake up and do something and innovate, and be fresh. Competition is a huge motivator for innovation and quality.