ReviewA Whimsical Statement In Time: Introducing The Le Régulateur Louis Erard X seconde/seconde/

One of the most distinctive collections from the independent watchmaker Louis Erard is their Excellence line, which boasts mechanical complications with classical designs. Launched to celebrate the brand’s 80th anniversary in 2011, this collection embodies neo-classic aesthetics that capture the DNA of the brand as the spirit of fine watchmaking runs through each of these timepieces, led by the iconic regulator style. It comprises exquisitely crafted mechanicals, such as small seconds, chronographs, moon phases, power reserve indicators and others complications that exemplify Swiss haute horlogerie. Over the years, these regulator timepieces have become an integral part of the brand’s ethos and have strengthened their identity. With offset hours and seconds, they create quite a dramatic statement visually, and make for good conversation starters at any soirée. However, with their new Le Régulateur Louis Erard X seconde/seconde/ timepiece, the brand have successfully showcased how collaborations can work beautifully without diluting the core values of the parties involved. It won’t come as a surprise to those who have followed Louis Erard’s recent artistic collaborations such as those with Alain Silberstein, Vianney Halter, and atelier oï watches. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard X seconde/seconde/ comes in a limited edition of 178 pieces and represents the brand’s four basic fundamentals: highest quality, timeless design, value for money, and expertise. Here’s a closer look.

A Fine Collaboration Between Art And Mechanics

Though the regulator timepieces from Louis Erard have a distinct classical appeal and are for people who love the charm of an old-school, three-hand watch; they are a far cry from your typical dress watch. While the design takes cues from classical timekeepers, the execution is what makes a difference. The dials are almost always minimalistic, following an off-centre placement of hour and minute counters, resembling the figure ‘8’. Even in the chronographs, this symmetry is not lost and an extra sub-dial at nine o’clock balances out the counters positioned at 12 and six o’clock. With the new Le Régulateur Louis Erard X seconde/seconde timepiece, the brand have ventured into a more experimental zone by collaborating with French firm, seconde/seconde/, which specialises in customisation of vintage watches. Founded by Romaric André, the agency have worked on some vintage models, such as an Omega Constellation, a Rolex Air-King, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox and a Zenith Pilot’s Chronograph. However, his aim is not to change the watch style completely, but to offer a distinct change with minimal tweaks.

With their new Le Régulateur Louis Erard X seconde/seconde/ timepiece, the brand have successfully showcased how collaborations can work beautifully without diluting core values

Louis Erard have ventured into a more experimental zone by collaborating with French firm, seconde/seconde/, which specialises in the customisation of vintage watches

For the new Le Régulateur Louis Erard X seconde/seconde/, the brand have used their iconic regulator as the base

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For the new Le Régulateur Louis Erard X seconde/seconde/, the brand have used their iconic regulator as the base. It’s here that André’s vision comes to life as he merges mechanical watchmaking with the digital world by representing the dreaded ‘404 error’ through the minute hand. Now everyone knows how the world is dependent on the internet and the pros by far outweigh the cons of this technology that has bridged the world together. And one is familiar with the ‘404 error’, which often pops up when one is trying to find a web page that is not online or doesn’t exist. Perhaps the message that they are trying to send is that both worlds, digital and analogue, need to coexist, putting to rest once and for all the debate that smartwatches will cause the death of mechanical timekeepers.

A Distinctive Design

This new collaboration will come as no surprise to those already familiar with seconde/seconde/, AKA Romaric André, and his appropriation of vintage watches for the Banksy generation (Banksy is an anonymous popular street artist). It’s here that the independent Paris-based creator uses the Louis Erard regulator as a blank canvas for his artwork combining diversion, iconoclasm and a mix of styles. The creator draws from contemporary culture, the internet, the streets and video games. For some watch purists, however, this might come as a bit of a shock because the design certainly strays from what one considers ‘normal’ watchmaking aesthetics.

The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x seconde/seconde/ is powered by an automatic Sellita movement and offers a power reserve of 38 hours

However, for those who like a touch of modernity and whimsy thrown into the mix, this will certainly stand out. André’s designs command attention and serve as a reminder that watches are not only functional tools. They must still tell the time, of course, and in the most beautiful way possible, since watches are also a mark of personal identity. He has also tried to throw in a bit of humour with his ‘404 error’ representation on the minute hand—to say, ‘This hour does not exist.’ Except that this hand returns at the 45th minute to align with a blue plate at three o’clock to read ‘404 error’ represented in a familiar digital font. And at all other times, the dial simply reads ‘Louis error’. A little fun never harmed anyone, right!

“At first, I am guided by a drive for irreverence. And I am here to disrupt age-old balance, to break preliminary harmony,” expresses Romaric André. “It’s quite exhilarating to unseat the product—deconstructing the piece first, then reconstructing it to reveal an unknown side of it. In every watch, I see an opportunity to bring out a whole new perspective, whether it’s serious or lighter in nature.” Now his signature—the ‘hand-swap’ principle, has become a part of a contemporary watchmaking design game, which is aesthetically radical but technically harmless, where you replace one or more hands on an existing watch, to convey a strong message.

The rest of the watch remains conventional as it comes in a 42mm polished, stainless steel case that frames an opaline dial with the instantly recognisable off-centred sub-dials found in the brand’s Excellence regulator timepieces. It is powered by an automatic Sellita movement, studded with 31 jewels, and offers a power reserve of 38 hours. This is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback and one can also see the special open-worked oscillating weight with the Louis Erard symbol. Water-resistant to 50m, the watch is presented on a brown nubuck leather strap.

"In every watch, I see an opportunity to bring out a whole new perspective, whether serious or lighter in nature,” espresses Romaric André, founder, seconde/seconde

The creator draws from contemporary culture, the internet, the streets and video games. For those who like a bit of modernity and whimsy thrown into the mix; this will certainly stand out

The watch comes in a 42mm stainless steel case that frames an opaline dial with the instantly recognisable off-centred sub-dials found in the brand’s Excellence regulator timepieces

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Continuing the work of their founder and honouring timeless watchmaking traditions, Louis Erard are reinterpreting haute horlogerie codes through contemporary language. By revisiting artistic crafts, they are opening up a plethora of possibilities with their non-conformist collaborations that may not be everyone’s cup of tea. However, the brand draw on their values to enhance mechanical watches, just as they have done with the new disruptive Le Régulateur Louis Erard X seconde/seconde/ timepiece.