SpotlightWatches And Wonders 2021: Jaeger-LeCoultre And Bulgari Redefine The Art Of Complex Watchmaking With Their New Masterpieces

The world of haute horlogerie, it seems, has adapted to the ‘new normal’. And, very well at that. While last year, when the prestigious Watches and Wonders (formerly known as SIHH) fair went completely online due to the COVID-19 global health crisis, many were left wondering how digital seminars and press conferences would make up for the personalisation that one experienced at these horological galas. From one-on-one appointments with brand heads, product designers and CEOs for understanding the mechanics and stories behind the new launches, to observing the new trends and getting a better understanding of the business, of course, there’s a lot left to be desired with the digital medium. But cut to 2021, the saga of online launches continues, albeit in a more focused and user-friendly format, where one can witness all the latest novelties, within the safe confines of one’s homes, until travel and large gatherings are prevalent, once again. Watches and Wonders kicked off this year’s edition in two parts, starting with a digital format in Geneva (April 7 to 13), and is later scheduled for an in-person event in Shanghai from April 14 to 18.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is the world’s first ‘four-faced’ wristwatch

It is a result of over six years of development, combining key areas of savoir faire that Jaeger-LeCoultre have mastered over the years

With 38 participating brands—double of last year, the fair certainly brings the best of watchmaking to the table. While this list can be endless, we bring you highlights from two brands that are taking innovation to extreme levels. While everyone loves complications, it’s a risky area to navigate. In the quest for churning out highly complex watches, some brands tend to overpopulate their timepieces, and, as a result they may seem too cluttered, where it may be difficult to really utilise their functions. Also, the more add-ons in terms of complications, the bulkier a watch gets. But according to us, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Bulgari are redefining this aspect since their masterpieces, this year, have set the bar extremely high in terms of innovation. Here’s a closer look at the tech marvels unveiled by these two maisons.

The New Sides Of The Reverso 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

Crafted in 1931 for British army officers commissioned in India, the Reverso’s journey has come a long way. Built with a reversible mechanism to protect the dial against the hard knocks and shocks of a Polo game, the Reverso has, over the years, become the brand’s poster child. And this year, as the brand mark the collection’s 90th anniversary, they decided to surprise us with something massive in terms of fine watchmaking. The maison presented the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)—a result of over six years of development, combining key areas of savoir faire that the brand have mastered over years, with innovative new astronomical indications. It is the world’s first ‘four-faced’ wristwatch—each carrying a specific and dedicated function.

Interestingly, CEO Catherine Rénier pointed out during the digital presentation that, despite being the “most complicated Reverso ever created, it’s the most user-friendly and also one of the easiest to wear.” The brand have incorporated three displays of lunar information on the interior face of the watch’s cradle. The first is he synodic cycle—time required for a heavenly body to return to approximately the same position relative to the Sun as observed from the Earth. Then we have the draconic cycle—the mean time taken by the moon between successive passages through the ascending node of its orbit. And finally, there’s the anomalistic cycle—the revolution of the Moon around its elliptical orbit as measured from one full moon to another.

While Jaeger-LeCoultre have crafted complex astronomical watches in the past (The Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Celeste launched in 2019 or the Rendez-Vous Moon and Celestial for ladies); with the new Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185, the brand have conquered the unknown realms of the galaxy. This watch can even predict astronomical events such as supermoons and eclipses! And, with its series of complications, one would think that this timepiece is dedicated to men, but according to Rénier, “Ladies, too, can wear the Reverso Quadriptyque as there are no specifics when it comes to complications for women.” Surely, the legendary Reverso can be worn by both genders because the only thing that one needs is a big personality to carry off such an icon.

The Powerhouse: Calibre 185

This new astronomical delight is replete with a total of 11 complications, including a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, indications of the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycles (a first in watchmaking) with a total of 12 patents. And this has been achieved by the new calibre 185, specially designed for this watch. On the first face or side, one can see the flying tourbillon at the seven o’clock position on the recto side of the case, which makes one rotation per minute, controlling the position of the balance, which beats at a frequency of 28,800vph in order to achieve a single corrected average time measurement. The watch also accounts for leap years and displays the 29th day of February, every four years. The large date is at five o’clock, which balances out the flying tourbillon display.

On the second face is the minute repeater function, which is activated with the slide of a lever, located just above the crown. This unleashes a series of low notes, correlating to the number of hours. There is also a secondary time display that indicates the same time as on the recto dial but with jumping hours and peripheral minutes. So, the chiming notes of the minute repeater are perfectly in-sync with the visual display of the elapsed time.

The watch consists of 11 complications, including a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, along with the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycles of the moon phases

With the Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185, the brand have conquered the unknown realms of the galaxy as this watch can predict astronomical events such as supermoons and eclipses

The fourth face of the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 showcases a representation of the moon phases as observed in the Southern Hemisphere

01

The third face unites three displays of lunar information—the aforementioned synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycles—for the first time in one wristwatch. This unique micromechanical combination of indications allows the determination of eclipse events (both solar and lunar), and rare lunar occurrences such as supermoons.

The fourth face of the timepiece charms with a representation of the moon phases as observed in the Southern Hemisphere. While most wristwatches carry moon phase indications from the perspective of the Northern Hemisphere, the Quadriptyque leaves no stone unturned in keeping up with its spirit of inclusion. This side of the dial displays a star-spangled sky chart, engraved and lacquered in a gradient that comprises blue shades, which forms the perfect backdrop for the pink-gold disc that represents the moon.

With the new Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185, it’s like the entire cosmos descending upon your wrist. A breathtaking marvel, we say!

Besides this, Jaeger-LeCoultre also secretly unveiled four models from the Reverso Precious Flowers line that shines the spotlight on their artistic decoration skills, such as enamelling, engraving and gem-setting work, carried out by skilled artisans. Inspired by the ostentatious grandeur of the Art Deco era of the 1920s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artistic team have created four stunning models that are inspired by the romanticism offered by floral blooms. There are two models in white gold and two in pink gold—each showcasing Métiers Rares or rare handcrafts in different combinations. There’s also the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds in green, adding to its existing array of chocolate brown, red, burgundy and blue models. This timepiece stands out for its rich sunray-brushed lacquer dial and matching leather strap in deep green that is reminiscent of the lush green forests.

Bulgari’s Seventh World Record: The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

In its quest to shatter records of ultrathin complications, Italian casa Bulgari have created yet another record that adds to its La bellezza della meccanica or ‘The beauty of mechanics’ portfolio. After kicking off the LVMH Watch Week 2021 in January this year, Bulgari, once again, have stunned us with their new Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, which presents their seventh world record—this one for the slimmest perpetual calendar watch.

Click here to see both Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar watches

This new timepiece is available in two variations: the signature titanium case, and a platinum version. Bulgari set off this exercise in 2014, and ever since, have been outdoing themselves in the department of crafting ultrathin watches with highly complex mechanisms that incorporate contemporary and stylish Italian design codes. This new timepiece is powered by the mechanical automatic in-house movement, calibre BVL 305 that measures a mere 2.75mm. It uses a micro-rotor, while utilising the space between the components in an optimum manner, without reducing their dimensions or compromising on the design aspect. The display features hour and minute hands, along with all the perpetual calendar functions, including retrograde date, day, month and a retrograde display of leap years. They are adjusted by means of three correctors: one for the date at two o’clock, another for the month at four o’clock, and a third for the day between eight and nine o’clock.

This new automatic in-house movement displays all the perpetual calendar functions such as the date, day, month and leap years

This new timepiece is powered by the self-winding mechanical in-house movement, calibre BVL 305, which measures a mere 2.75mm

This groundbreaking movement with a 60-hour power reserve is housed in a 40mm case (for both titanium and platinum versions), and stands at 5.8mm in thickness (or thinness) to keep the slimness factor intact. The wearer will be able to read the time without having to adjust the indications before February 2100. Water-resistant to 30m, this timepiece is available in either a matching titanium bracelet or a blue leather strap. Once again, Bulgari have paved the way for ultra-slim wristwatches as they continue to push the boundaries of conventional watchmaking.

With brands unveiling new launches every day and so much going on in the watchmaking space, we’ll keep bringing you the best from this edition of Watches and Wonders 2021, so stay tuned!