SpotlightPure Gold: The Golden Ratio Reinvigorates Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute At Watches And Wonders, Geneva 2023

With a value of 1.618033, and represented by the Greek letter φ (phi), the Golden Ratio is a concept where mathematical consideration translates to the most harmonic proportions and aesthetic superiority. In literal terms, if a rectangle is proportioned with the Golden Ratio, cutting out a square with sides equal to the width of the rectangle will leave behind a rectangle of the same proportions. And if repeated constantly, the resultant shape will perpetually have the same ratio. Now this mystical concept came about in the early 20th century, around the same time as the Reverso was conceived by Jaeger-LeCoultre. It influenced the design, which would go on to become a template, and it continues to be like an anchor for the collection to this day. This year’s new Reversos pay tribute to the Golden Ratio, as it once again informs the proportions of the case, even with the redesign and slimmer profile. The five new editions include jewelled watches, a pendant Reverso for the first time, a new tourbillon and a chronograph, which all remain faithful to the origins of the collection. “This new edition has been about artistic inspirations, and about looking at the Reverso from different angles,” stated brand CEO Catherine Rénier, at a pre-event press conference.

Golden Proportions

Maintaining the codes of the Reverso’s origins and the Golden Ratio, the case of the Revero Tribute Small Seconds has been redesigned, reducing its thickness by almost 1mm, down now to 7.56mm. These new editions in 18-karat gold come with a dial in burgundy (lacquered), or hues of black or silver, sunray. The matching straps, in either canvas with leather or full calfskin, are easily interchangeable. Meanwhile, the manual-winding movement inside, powering the hours, minutes and small seconds, offers a power reserve of 42 hours.

The small seconds sub-dial is replaced by the open-worked tourbillon cage on one side of the new Duoface Tourbillon, which retains sleek and harmonic proportions, governed by the Golden Ratio. While this side of the watch presents elegant simplicity, in a refined silvery execution, the reverse showcases the complex redesign of the tourbillon’s placement—different from previous editions—wherein the outer cage has been fitted in a unique fashion. The bevelled bridge holding the cage includes a pointer that acts as a small seconds hand. Running this piece is the calibre 847, which also includes a day-night indicator—a handy addition, when this dial is being used for a secondary reference time zone. All features are controlled by the one crown.

While this side of the watch presents elegant simplicity, in a refined silvery execution, the reverse showcases the complex redesign of the tourbillon’s placement—different from previous editions

The bevelled bridge holding the cage includes a pointer that acts as a small seconds hand. This side includes a day-night indicator—a handy addition, when it's being used for a secondary reference time zone

Rectangular Movement

Creating the movement of the tourbillon Reverso was no walk in the park. Geometry is certainly the key in developing such calibres, especially the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph. “It is definitely more complicated, and there is less area to display the features, and less space to work out the symmetry,” explained Lionel Favre, the brand’s product design director. “And especially with the Reverso Duoface, watches, the front and the rear have to both work as display sides, with working dials and functions.” The chronograph looks completely unassuming on one side, with no hint of the complication on this time-only display. What gives it away are the chronograph pushers, which are mainly to be used on the reverse. This gorgeous, skeletonised chronograph display features a central chronograph seconds hand and a jumping 30-minute counter below the off-centred timekeeping.

The chronograph looks completely unassuming on one side, with no hint of the complication on this time-only display. What gives it away are the chronograph pushers

On the reverse, the gorgeous, skeletonised chronograph display features a central chronograph seconds hand and a jumping 30-minute counter below the off-centred timekeeping

Art Deco, Reverso—Inseparable

While geometric principles and forms are an essential part of the mechanics and so on, geometrical design itself is a key feature of art deco codes. “It’s all about the history and a strong story, and to be consistent with what we stand for, where we come from. We are always in search of a clear frame for the expression of our creativity,” elucidated Rénier about the conception of all these new pieces. “The Golden Ratio is also a geometrical concept, and links strongly to art deco design, which is where the inspiration for Reverso’s basic template and design comes from.” This is what is taken forward with the more decorated Reversos of the year—the Precious Colours and the Reverso Secret Necklace.

Making a strong art deco statement, first, are the Precious Colours—two in number, in palettes of green and blue. The patterns on the reverse—which really is the highlight of this edition—are a geometrical delight. Crafted from diamond setting, and grand feu enamelling in the coloured sections, these crafts take about 45 and 85 hours, respectively. The enamelling especially around the curves on the sides is the real challenge.

The First Ever Reverso Pendant Watch

Fine crafts, including all the gem-setting, continues with another watch that’s better when seen with the dial hidden. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre are presenting their first ever Reverso to be worn as a pendant, on a sautoir necklace. “With the Reverso, the dial was made to be hidden,” said Rénier, referring to the first ever Reversos, which were mono-faced—created in order to give wearers the option of hiding the dial to protect the glass, while playing polo. “So it was absolutely feasible—the idea of a Reverso as a ‘Secret Watch’—essentially a pendant that has a watch on the flip side. It’s like a natural progression for the collection.”

This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre are presenting their first ever Reverso to be worn as a pendant, on a sautoir necklace, in gold with diamonds and black onyx

“With the Reverso, the dial was made to be hidden,” said Rénier. “So it was absolutely feasible—the idea of a Reverso as a ‘Secret Watch’—essentially a pendant that has a watch on the flip side”

With about 300 hours’ worth of gem-setting, the closed side is the centrepiece

On the reverse, the watch is intentionally placed upside down—as seen when the pendant is suspended—because it’s a secret timekeeper meant only for the wearer, who must see the watch face right-side-up

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In essentially gold and black onyx with white diamonds, the Secret Necklace quite evidently also celebrates art deco design. With about 300 hours’ worth of gem-setting, the closed side is the centrepiece. On the reverse, the watch is intentionally placed upside down—as seen when the pendant is suspended—because it’s a secret timekeeper meant only for the wearer, who must see the watch face right-side-up, when they hold it up to read the time. This is the most alluring part of the Secret Necklace really, and it makes perfect sense for the Reverso, as Rénier stated. “We would definitely like to explore this further with the Reverso collection, going forward,” she added.

It’s fascinating really how much can be explored with this collection, even as Jaeger-LeCoultre always ensure that it remains true to its roots—which is what these new 2023 novelties are really about. It pays a beautiful tribute to the maison’s golden legacy, taking it forward, as the Golden Ratio goes along with it. “Reverso is our most iconic line, and it’s instantly recognisable. We are extremely blessed to have something so precious, steeped in history and patrimony. The legacy of the Reverso and how much it means to us is unmatched,” concluded Rénier.