ReviewPresenting The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph—Sporting Two Lacquered Dial Variations
Highly versatile and combining sporting elegance with mechanical precision, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph is now available in two dial hues, along with a pair of interchangeable straps
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Born in the late 1960s, the Polaris is a sporting heritage from Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre, which was developed to embrace the marine landscape. At the time of its launch, recreational and professional diving had become hot pursuits as more and more people were intrigued and were on a quest to explore the deepest secrets of the oceans. It was then that the Polaris saw the light of day and stood out among a sea of dive watches, thanks to its unconventional large case and the alarm function, which made it an icon in the dive watch world. This also came as a sort of surprise from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which was probably always viewed from the prism of a watchmaker doling out classical watches. Therefore the bold design of the Polaris also had a shock value (a pleasant one) among watch enthusiasts as it perfectly married ‘modern style with a sophisticated sporting soul to craft a timepiece that features all the signature elegance of Jaeger‑LeCoultre, albeit with an audacious twist’. The line has witnessed a gargantuan evolution over the years, and the maison continues on this path, as it seeks to bring forth the Polaris in various avatars.
Out of these, the chronograph version was given an update last year by introducing two signature dials that showcase the brand’s mastery of artisanal skills and also complete control over the production process as they are executed in-house. Available in hues of blue or grey, these elegant yet sporty watches make for a fine fit for the wrist. Here’s all you need to know about the upgraded Polaris Chronograph.
The Evergreen Charm Of Lacquered Dials
The dials of the Polaris Chronograph are truly the standout feature as they are bold and visually striking due to their lacquered surfaces. Both the hues—deep blue and warm grey—complement the sporty character of the Polaris, and are highly complex in their architecture. There’s a central disc, a middle ring—which carries the hour markers, and an outer ring that is marked with the tachymeter scale. Right from the central disc to the middle one, the lacquer’s hue is graduated from light to dark—adding immense visual depth. While this might look easy to the naked eye, it’s a highly laborious process, with each layer of coating being manually applied. It starts with the application of a clear coat of varnish, followed by a layer of colour. ‘The challenge lies in controlling both the shade and the gradient, so that the two sections match. This is followed by 35 coats of translucent lacquer, to add depth and richness. The process is completed by polishing the components to a bright mirror finish’, as explained in the brand literature.
However, this complexity doesn’t hinder the time-telling process. The layout looks neat and is quite legible, with a central chronograph seconds hand to enable more precise reading of this key measurement. There dial’s symmetry is balanced by the 30-minute counter at three o’clock, and the sub-dial at nine o’clock, showing the running seconds (a huge change from its predecessor). The circular graining of these sub-dials adds a huge contrast when compared with the glossy lacquered surfaces and the opaline finish of the outer ring.
Apart from this, the orange accents stand out, while the skeletonised hands allow an uninterrupted view of the watch face. In keeping with the contemporary design codes, there are bold trapezoid-shaped indexes, which balance the fine detailing of the chronograph counters. And like all sports watches, the indexes, hour markers, and the hands are all coated with a luminescent material for legibility in all light conditions
When The Worlds Of Adventure And Elegance Collide
As we mentioned earlier, the Polaris is a sporty yet elegant timekeeper, which balances the robust capabilities and practical functions of a sports watch with along with a highly elegant aesthetic, as it borrows heavily from the dive watches created by the maison in the 1960s.
Measuring 42mm, the new Polaris Chronograph is a high-performing watch that is versatile and even practical for daily wear and offers optimal comfort on the wrist. It features the key Polaris design codes: taut lines, sharply curving lugs, a thin bezel, a glass-box crystal, and an eye-catching mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The large crown is reminiscent of the1960s model and the robust pushers are designed for better grip and ease of use.
And keeping up with the spirit of adventure in a contemporary scenario, the Polaris Chronograph comes with an interchangeable strap system, which allows for a quick change. Each version comes with a package of two straps: the blue dial is complemented by a steel bracelet and a blue rubber strap; while the grey dial is presented on a beige canvas strap and also comes with an option of a textured black rubber strap.
The Powerhouse Of Watchmaking Excellence
The Polaris Chronograph is driven by the Calibre 761—an automatic movement produced in-house, which is also a stellar example of the brand’s excellence in fine watchmaking. Combining high performance with mechanical elegance, this powerhouse features twin barrels and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with a vertical clutch that offer a 65-hour power reserve. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, one can view the fine finishing, which includes blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration on the base plate as well as on the signature open-worked winding rotor bearing the ‘JL’ motif along with other finer details, which highlight the importance of aesthetics for the brand, not just on the outside but on the inside as well.
