SpotlightIWC Launches A Fleet Of New Pilot’s Watches At SIHH 2019
IWC has rightfully grabbed headlines at the start of SIHH 2019 by introducing no less than 14 news models in its iconic Pilot's line. There's something for everyone'purist or modernist, adventurous or conservative, young or old. We take a look at the brand's novelties and how wonderfully they have executed different variations on a simple idea and aesthetic
May We Recommend
As we mentioned in our previews of finely crafted timepieces and sports watches, this year at SIHH, IWC is focusing exclusively on its Pilot’s line. And while they announced four new models that already had us very excited, there are actually 10 more in store! This is a great nod to their heritage, as IWC and pilot’s watches have been quite inseparable ever since the brand was chosen to build watches to a specification for the German air forces in 1940. Novelties marking their debut at SIHH 2019 are part of either the Spitfire, TOP GUN or Le Petit Prince collections. Let’s get to it.
Spitfire
The Spitfire moniker comes from a celebrated British fighter aircraft that IWC is paying homage to. While Spitfire models in their previous repertoire were silver dial variations of existing models, this year they have gone for a fully military, utilitarian look. What makes this collection special is IWC fitting every model with in-house movements, right from the time and date model up to the perpetual calendar. This collection feels like the main event for IWC in 2019.
The time-date and chronograph models come with the option of bronze or steel cases. The bronze cases are paired with green dials and brown leather straps, giving it a great, rugged look. Bronze will also develop patina over time when exposed to the element and will add to the character and military vibes.
The steel cased models, on the other hand, have black dials and green textile straps. This combination feels right out of a 1950s military operation and really does call out to the older watches IWC supplied to aviators and armed forces in the 20th century.
One of the biggest additional factors of appeal for these watches are the reduced dimensions compared to current models. While the chronograph comes down to 41mm from 43mm, the time-date is a nicely proportioned 39mm versus the current 40mm. This continues the trend we’ve been seeing of watch sizes reducing lately. Collectively, these four references represent the most compelling everyday watches we’ve seen at SIHH so far.
The only addition to the Big Pilot’s line this year is the Spitfire Perpetual Calendar, which comes in the familiar layout we are used to with this complication from IWC. This version, too, comes in a bronze case with green dial, which is sure to be a winning combination this year, and in the future, for the brand.
TOP GUN
The TOP GUN collection has been IWC’s ceramic watch playground for 12 years now. This year, they’ve taken it up a notch by launching a new proprietary material called Ceratanium, that is a composite of ceramic and titanium, combining the most desirable properties of both into a lightweight, scratchproof material that is naturally blacked out during its production without needing any coating.
Ceratanium has been used to machine the case, crown, pushers and buckle for the 44mm double chronograph with a split-second mechanism to simultaneously time two events. It is good to see IWC enter the material innovation arena, to join the likes of Panerai and Hublot.
Two timepieces with in-house movements have been announced as well. One is a chronograph with a black ceramic case and one with sand-coloured ceramic called the ‘Mojave Desert’ edition, referencing the colour of the desert as well as the uniforms of U.S. Navy pilots. These are both substantially sized at 44.5mm in diameter. While the black one has high contrast on the dial, the Mojave Desert plays with shades of sand and brown; though they both end up with distinct military masculinity.
A simple, ceramic time and date model in 41mm will also now be part of the collection. The monochromatic look has been nicely accented with TOP GUN written in red on the dial and has a titanium caseback. All watches in the collection have casebacks engraved with the TOP GUN logo. TOP GUN is a U.S. Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program, as you will recall from the Tom Cruise movie of the same name.
Le Petit Prince
Le Petit Prince, the blue-dialled sub-collection in the Pilot’s line, is dedicated to the children’s book of the same name by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. The signature, radiant blue dials have made the collection extremely popular. IWC has chosen this collection for introducing high-complications this year. For the first time, IWC has brought the perpetual calendar and chronograph complications together in a Pilot’s watch with stunning results. This is a 250-piece limited edition, only available in solid rose gold.
Given the freshness that IWC has injected into its Pilot’s line this year, we are a little spoilt for choice as it really does cater to so many varied tastes in one way or another. Day 1 at SIHH has been well spent.
Amish Behl is India’s first Watch Expert, certified by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), Switzerland. He is a watch specialist and collector based in New Delhi, deeply passionate about the art and history of timekeeping. Behl is also the founder of Definitely Curry, a digital publication about modern ‘made in India’.
