SpotlightIWC Build-Up On Their Portugieser Collection With New Perpetual Calendars, Chronographs, And Tourbillon Models
The upgraded Portugieser timepieces include a spanking new Eternal Calendar among other impressive launches that are hallmarks of IWC’s engineering approach to fine watchmaking
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One of the oldest and best-selling collections from IWC—the Portugieser—has been upgraded at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the largest gathering in the world of horology, currently being held at Geneva. Combining precision engineering, technical innovation, and sophisticated design, the Portugieser collection has been strengthened with watches that showcase reworked designs, new and interesting colourways, and some stellar complications. Out of these the Eternal Calendar is undoubtedly the star attraction—a poetic complication that highlights the ‘endless cycle of day and night’ with a special tribute to the Moon and the celestial world. The 44.4mm timepiece is crafted in an intricately finished platinum case with polished and brushed surfaces, and offers impressive efficiency and technical elegance as it’s the next level of perpetual calendars—an IWC specialisation. The brand are calling it their ‘first secular perpetual calendar’ since in addition to recognising the different lengths of the months and adding a leap day every four years, the timepiece also takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules.
“Since Kurt Klaus developed his legendary perpetual calendar in the 1980s, IWC Schaffhausen has accumulated unique expertise in mechanical calendars that are ingeniously efficient in their design and are easy to use. With the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar, we now venture further than ever before, touching the limits of eternity. Our first secular perpetual calendar automatically takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules by skipping the leap year three times over 400 years. True to the spirit of engineers who are always pushing the boundaries, we have also fitted this technical marvel with a moon phase display that will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years,” states Chris Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC in an official press release.
The watch is based on the same principle and module of the perpetual calendar and all its functions can be operated by the crown. The major difference here is that while the perpetual calendar is programmed for a four-year cycle, the Eternal Calendar features an additional mechanism. It is programmed in such a manner that every four years, at the end of February, a new module informs the calendar mechanism whether the leap year takes place or not. This is possible due to a specially engineered 400-years gear that ensures the calendar automatically skips three leap years over four centuries or put simply, completes only one revolution every four centuries.
The watch features a white frosted dial and the sub-dials are machined and polished separately, and subsequently fixed onto the watch face. The numerals and the characteristic Portugieser minute scale are printed on a white lacquered flange perched between the glass dial and the front glass. The moon phase indication stands out and is displayed using the characteristic Double Moon indication, which shows the moon as seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. It is driven by the newly developed IWC-manufactured 52640 calibre, featuring the Pellaton winding system and two barrels, which help in supplying the watch with a seven-day power reserve. Water-resistant to 50m, it is presented on a black alligator leather strap with a platinum folding clasp.
The other highlights that have strengthened the Portugieser collection this year are as follows:
Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night
An elegant tourbillon constructed in 18-karat Armor Gold—a material that has an enhanced microstructure, and is significantly harder and more wear resistant than conventional 5N gold. This comes with an Obsidian lacquered dial and gold-plated hands and gold appliques. The flying tourbillon is the main highlight here, perched at six o’clock and consists of 56 parts and weighs only 0.675g. The day and night indication looks stunning at nine o’clock and is reflected through a small globe-shaped sphere, rotating around its axis, and is visible both from the dial and the movement side. It is driven by the manufacture calibre 81925—a manual-winding movement with gold-plated components and can be admired through the caseback.
Portugieser Chronograph
The old favourite is back in three new dial hues of Horizon Blue, Obsidian, and Dune. The blue version is cased in 18-karat white gold case and comes with a blue calfskin strap. The second features a black dial framed by an 18-karat gold case, along with a black alligator leather strap. The third reference is a sand or coper toned dial matched with a stainless steel case, presented on a black alligator leather strap. They are all powered by the in-house calibre 69355, a mechanical chronograph movement with a classic column-wheel design.
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44
The brand have completely re-engineered their famed Perpetual Calendar, with new dial hues and design finishes. Available in four versions—two in 18-karat white gold with Horizon Blue and Dune dials, while the other two cased in 18-karat Armor Gold with Obsidian or a Silver Moon dial. The watch face features 15 layers of transparent lacquer that are elaborately finished and polished to impart a visual depth. The case construction has been fully reworked and refined with a more slender case ring, combined with the use of double box-glass sapphire crystals. All models are driven by the manufacture calibre 52616 that come with a Pellaton winding system and a seven-day power reserve.
Portugieser Automatic 42 and 40
There are also new Portugieser Automatic 42 and 40 models featuring a completely re-engineered case construction with a slender side profile. The dials are also painstakingly finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer. They showcase new design codes with the dial colours in Horizon Blue, Obsidian, Dune, and Silver Moon which enhance the timeless appeal of these classic timekeepers.
