ReviewIntroducing The Full-Carbon-Jacket Zenith Defy Classic

When the word Defy pops up in a conversation in the context of Zenith, the words you start to hear in conjuncture are futuristic, record-breaking and disruptive. This influential line of watches upholds Zenith’s proud traditions that are steeped in superlative timekeeping, but at the same time looks into the future, in terms of materials, design and technology. We’ve covered the Defy collection, as a larger pillar for Zenith, and its pivotal timepieces at length, which you can read here. Today’s story, however, is a Defy that does things differently—a Defy that defies its own norms, is how I’d put it. While traditionally, the timepieces from this line were known for their high-frequency, extremely accurate movements, this Defy pulls its focus on extreme material science, along with retaining all the goodness that the collection brings to the table. Introducing in a full-carbon-jacket, the Zenith Defy Classic Carbon.

Overview

Carbon is prized for its rare combination of lightness and durability. Another aspect that makes it highly desirable is its unique and futuristic appearance. The material, due to its advantages, is used extensively in aeronautics and motorsport. Yet its use in watchmaking has been fairly limited, if you consider the percentage of fine watches that are made from carbon. But the Defy Classic Carbon changes the game.

Not only is the case made from carbon, but the 50-component integrated bracelet is also made entirely from that material—an unprecedented technical feat that brings the total weight of the watch to a mere 65g. To put that into context, it means that this watch is almost half the weight of its titanium counterpart, but is twice as strong.

The Zenith Defy Classic Carbon watch is almost half the weight of its titanium counterpart, but is twice as strong

Not only is the case made from carbon, but the 50-component integrated bracelet is also made entirely from that material

The Defy Classic

The Case

At an ideal size of 41mm, the case is not too big for small wrists and vice versa. Boasting a full carbon construction, the angular lines of the case heighten the visual impact of the material. And in addition to the looks and the strength, the material is also corrosion-resistant. The challenges that come with working with carbon are two-fold. It first begins with crafting the material itself, which requires high temperatures, higher pressures, and great skill. But after the material is made, the next hurdle is working with it, due to the very property that makes it desirable in the first place. Zenith, however, has wonderfully machined the tough material into the classic tonneau-shaped design and the result is outstanding.

Boasting a full carbon construction, the angular lines of the 41mm case heighten the visual impact of the material

The Dial

Like many Defy models, the Classic Carbon too features an open-worked dial. Highlighted with the five-prong star motif—which has become a Defy Classic signature—the dial steals the show. Open-worked dials often take a hit in legibility for obvious reasons. But here, the green Super-LumiNova in the dark, bold hands paired with the wedge-shaped, ruthenium-plated hour markers help a lot towards legibility. The dial is protected by domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

The Movement

Below the star on the dial, you can see parts of the dark ruthenium-treated movement. This is the in-house Elite 670 SK movement that has been a staple in Zenith’s line-up for many years. However, for the Defy Classic family, the movement was reimagined as a skeletonised one. While the name Defy Classic comes across as an oxymoron, the Classic signifies that it’s a watch with simple, three-hand timekeeping and a date feature. The movement operates at 28,800vph and has a minimum power reserve of 48 hours.

The Bracelet

Here’s where the watch becomes truly special. The use of carbon for a bracelet is unheard of. Painstakingly milling each bracelet segment, the links need to be connected in a way that rigidity and durability are ensured. This is a monumental challenge, only one that Zenith could tackle. Up until now, carbon watch bracelets have either been superficial plaques of the composite material fixed to a metal base or reserved for a handful of highly complicated watches produced in very small numbers. With the Defy Classic Carbon, it’s now available to a larger audience. Each link in the bracelet is a piece of solid carbon, moulded and milled with precision in such a way that it highlights the marbled layers or ‘strata’ of the carbon. The result is a bracelet that’s amazingly light and silky-smooth to the touch.

Each link in the bracelet is a piece of solid carbon, moulded and milled with precision in such a way that it highlights the marbled layers or ‘strata’ of the carbon

The result is a bracelet that’s amazingly light and silky-smooth to the touch

Final Thoughts

The age-old trope of ‘heavier means more valuable’ (looking at you, platinum) should remain in the old ages. The advancements in technology allow us to create materials for the masses that were once only imagined for literal rocket science. Watchmaking in itself is a subject that looks at its past with rose-tinted glasses. But that doesn’t mean that we should be limited by it. The Defy Classic Carbon is a great step towards normalising the use of special materials for a larger audience of watchmaking. And to make it more special, remember that due to its unique construction that results in a different marbled, camouflage pattern in every watch, no two timepieces will ever be the same.

Thanks to the watch's unique construction that results in a different marbled, camouflage pattern in every watch, no two timepieces will ever be the same

The Defy Classic Carbon is a great step towards normalising the use of special materials for a larger audience of watchmaking