FeatureThe Counterfeit Conflict: Why Buying An Authentic Watch Matters

The plague of counterfeiting luxury watches is one that has existed since time immemorial. And the notion behind these (sometimes ridiculously close to the original) counterfeits is quite simple. Fine timepieces, as we know them, are quite expensive. And what is the purpose of buying a high-end timepiece? There are a select few who truly appreciate the craftsmanship involved in the making of a mechanical watch. However, in most cases for most people, it’s about making a statement—a statement that asserts your position in society; a statement of success, and that you’ve arrived. So the seemingly simple solution around this expensive affair is to pick up a counterfeit at a mere fraction of the price of an original, and let the world think that you’ve made it. Harmless, right? Well, not quite.

Beware Of The Fakes

Let’s start with where you can find them first. Counterfeits can be found anywhere, from a street-vendor to proper shops, but a flood of them can be spotted online. A common sight is a site slashing nearly 90 percent off on the retail price of a Rolex or a Panerai. Now if it wasn’t obvious, those are not real. People often worry that they will somehow receive a fake watch when buying from a legitimate store or retailer. To avoid taking a chance, it’s necessary that you purchase a high-end watch only from retailers authorised by the brands. There are a number of visual cues that differentiate shoddy workmanship from the real deal. And like every product in the market, there are good fakes and there are bad fakes—from cheap, chintzy knock-offs to deep fakes that perplex seasoned watch collectors. However, it’s extremely rare to find a fake watch sold through legitimate streams. If you are a watch collector, or are even aspiring to be one, it’s important to gain knowledge on the subject and increase your general awareness about counterfeits.

You'll find a number of sites online selling counterfeit watches at a fraction of the price compared to the real deal

To avoid the accidental purchase of a fake watch, always purchase from a reliable source or from brand-authorised retailers

It’s Against The Law

Unfortunately, what might seem like a harmless purchase can put you on the wrong side of the law in an instant. For example, in Italy and France, you will be immediately fined and can face serious jail time if you are caught buying counterfeit goods. Another example of stringent laws pertaining to the trade of counterfeits is in the US. They take the selling of counterfeit goods extremely seriously. If you are caught with just two fake watches, you can be accused of trying to resell them, leading to upwards of 10 years in prison and a $2 million fine, even if you’re a first-time offender. All countries have strict customs policies that try and deter these counterfeit goods, prohibiting the import and export of them to and from other countries. The reason for this is that companies pay big money to make sure that the logos, names, and all other aspects of a unique product are trademarked, and designs are routinely patented. When a replica is created, it breaches these rules, making it highly illegal.

It’s Not Worth Your Time

What’s illegal doesn’t always hold high value. In fact, counterfeit watches hold no value apart from what the buyer paid for it (maybe not even that!). When the buyer gets tired of the piece and thinks of selling it, unfortunately for them, there just isn’t a market for a used cheap knock-off. No one is interested in buying a second-hand counterfeit watch.

What’s The (Monetary) Deal?

What makes an expensive watch expensive is the research and development that goes behind conceiving the movement that makes it tick, the case that will protect it, and the way the watch has to be designed. But that’s not even the tip of the iceberg. There are layers after layers that you cut through once you educate yourself on the process of how these watches are made, and the rich history of the companies who make them. Several luxury watchmakers are big for a reason. Rolex, for example, invented waterproofness, which affirmed that its watches are, with a guarantee, impenetrable by water. Breguet invented the tourbillon, which till date remains one of the most difficult complications in watchmaking. Seiko, a brand that prides itself on creating affordable, high-quality watches for the masses, came out with the world’s first quartz wristwatch. Similarly, all luxury watch brands have their own crucial contribution to the horological world. And when you buy a premium watch, what you get is also a piece of this pioneering spirit.

What makes an expensive watch expensive, in part, is the research and development that goes behind conceiving the movement that makes it tick, the case that will protect it, and the way the watch has to be designed

The level of finishing on some premium watches are simply incredible, and is like a piece of art on your wrist, as seen in this creation of a Carl F. Bucherer watch dial

Companies use state-of-the-art technologies and extraordinarily talented watchmakers to create these luxury timepieces

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Even after the conceptualisation phase, the watch needs to be crafted, and companies use state-of-the-art technologies and extraordinarily talented watchmakers to create these luxury timepieces. The countless complications—such as the GMT function, the chronograph, the moon phase display, the perpetual calendar and so many more—available in today’s premium watches are a result of more than two centuries of the greatest horological minds at work. While the makers of counterfeit pieces might go to great lengths to seemingly include these functions to match the aesthetics of the original counterparts, you can be sure of the fact that they are going to be imprecise at best, or completely non-functional.

While there are usually easy tells when it comes to fake watches, some of them come quite close to the real thing, like you see here

The easiest way to avoid buying a fake is to go through legitimate channels, like a brand-authorised retailer

Luxury watchmakers, for the premium they command, need to make sure that their products will stand the test of time. Which is why Jaeger-LeCoultre has the ‘1000 Hours Control’—a testing period lasting six weeks while the watches are cased and rigorously examined under many different conditions. There’s even an institute responsible for certifying the accuracy and precision of Swiss watches, called the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). Their stringent quality tests are the reason these watches run for a lifetime (if you do your bit in having them serviced as required) and can pass them down for generations to come.

The pursuit of perfection doesn’t stop there. Watchmakers are constantly creating and melding materials hitherto unused in watchmaking. Richard Mille is a trailblazer when it comes to this, employing materials that are normally used in Formula One cars, aircrafts and racing yachts. But even pure opulence gets a touch of this innovative spirit. Hublot, for example, has a proprietary material called King Gold. Its chief characteristic is that it is redder than traditional gold. However, to achieve this signature tone of the gold alloy—while also ensuring its robustness—Hublot’s metallurgists went to great lengths to increase the percentage of copper and added platinum in order to stabilise the colour and neutralise oxidation. These inventive and thoughtful gestures are something you deeply miss when it comes to fake watches. What you get with a counterfeit is shoddy materials, zero craftsmanship, non-working sub-dials in most cases, no real water resistance, and a movement that can’t keep the time if its life depended on it.

The painstaking efforts of a brand, in this case Parmigiani, to create a simple white grained dial are astounding, affirming that premium watches come with a premium finish

The finished product of this process will only be appreciated by a few eagle-eyed horologists, and yet the brand spends a lot of time and money creating something unique

₹23,20,000

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Premium watches come with accurate and precise complications, which cannot be matched by counterfeits

₹30,70,000

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Reputation Matters

Aside from the real crime of buying a fake watch, there is the murder of reputation if you get called out for wearing a counterfeit. ‘Fake watches are for fake people.’ Those aren’t our words. It’s what the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) says in their campaign against counterfeiting. What’s worse about wearing a fake watch is the inferiority complex you’re likely to develop as you continuously try to convince people about its authenticity. You’ll know that it’s a fake, and in the end, that’s all that matters.

What’s The Alternative?

So what can you do if you truly love watches and the art behind them, but can’t afford the exceedingly expensive timepieces? The answer is simple: start small. There are some incredible pieces out there that display excellent craftsmanship and horological prowess that won’t pinch your pocket. Whatever your taste or budget, there are options out in the market that will cater to your horological needs by brands that are as impressive on your wrist as they are when it comes to legacy.

Our Picks

We’ve picked a few beautiful entry-level timepieces to get you hooked onto the horological roller-coaster, starting with Seiko. This is a brand that caters to all audiences by creating watches that fall everywhere in the price spectrum—from incredibly affordable to luxuriously high-end. This classic Seiko Presage is closer to the affordable side, but the build and finish of the watch screams pure quality. Within its 42mm case lies an in-house movement, the calibre 4R57, which beats at 21,600vph, providing a 41-hour power reserve.

However, if you want an entry-level Swiss-made automatic watch, Victorinox is the clear choice. The AirBoss Mechanical uses a Swiss-made movement with a 38-hour power reserve that is reliable and robust. This 42mm militaristic pilot watch is a looker too, with its dark grey dial and luminous hands and numerals.

Now we enter the realm of premium Swiss watches with the Oris Williams Day Date and the Baume & Mercier Clifton Club. Both watchmakers are established players in the horological world and both create watches with the highest levels of craftsmanship and passion. The Oris Williams is a motorsport-inspired watch made to honour one of the most iconic teams in Formula One, the Williams Formula One Team. The watch uses the Oris calibre 735, an automatic Swiss movement with a 38-hour power reserve. The watch’s clean aesthetic heightens legibility and gives it a premium vibe, not attached with the kind of price tag you’d expect with a watch that looks like this. The Clifton Club, on the other hand, carries a macho and rugged look. This sports watch measures 42mm and uses a Swiss-made Sellita movement that gives it a power reserve of 38 hours, same as the Oris. Both watches look exquisite and are great picks as your first ‘serious’ watch.

The Oris Williams is a motorsport-inspired watch made to honour one of the most iconic teams in Formula One—the Williams Formula One Team

₹1,28,500

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The Clifton Club line by Baume & Mercier includes affordable, yet sophisticated Swiss-made watches

₹2,37,000

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A Final Word

If you do your due diligence and research, you won’t have to rely on a cheap knock-off to draw eyes to your wrist. Instead, you will be able to buy an exquisite piece of horlogerie that will truly reflect your personality. Moreover, you’ll come off as authentic and real, and as a person who’s genuinely interested in fine watches and knows more than a thing or two on the subject.