SpotlightWinners And Finalists At The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The most important and coveted awards in the world of horology—the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)—wrapped up its latest edition last week. We discuss the categories, winners of the top prizes, and a few other noteworthy finalists
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Often referred to as the ‘Oscars of watchmaking’, the GPHG is undoubtedly a big deal for manufacturers and the horological audience alike. This year, the competition got more exciting with the addition of two new categories—‘iconic watch prize’ and the ‘diver’s watch prize’—which are in keeping with the immensely growing popularity of professional timepieces and timeless watchmaking icons. Each category features six finalists. And only one watch out of these 84 magnificent timepieces is crowned with the ‘Aiguille d’Or’—the GPHG’s top honor and the watch industry’s most prestigious award. This year, it was the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin that bagged this coveted title.
The ‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix celebrates the best watch of the year and is considered by many to be the ultimate achievement in watchmaking. And the award was presented to a truly deserving timepiece. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is the commercial version of the RD#2 Concept, featuring a 2.89mm-thick movement and 6.3mm-thick case. This makes it the thinnest perpetual calendar to have ever been created. Apart from the grand prize, the Swiss watchmaker took home two more awards, namely the ‘iconic watch prize’ for the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin, and the ‘men’s complication prize’ for the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie—a manual-winding minute repeater.
Noteworthy Winners:
Aside from the ‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix, prizes were presented to several other exemplary timepieces that are certifiably the best in their class. Here are a few of the exceptional winners.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic—Winner, Chronograph Watch Prize
The chronograph of the year had to be the thinnest mechanical chronograph ever created, which is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. Trying to comprehend the thickness (or lack thereof) of this 6.9mm watch becomes increasingly difficult when you learn that the movement within measures a paper-thin 3.3mm. What’s astounding is that, apart from its time-telling and chronograph functions, it also incorporates a very handy GMT function.
MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT—Winner, Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize
The Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize is given to the watch that breaks barriers in terms of design, mechanical complexity and innovation. The Legacy Machine FlyingT checks all those boxes and then some more. This stunning, bold watch features a high dome-shaped sapphire crystal glass, within which beats an in-house tourbillon movement. Meanwhile, the time is shown on a 50-degree inclined dial, and on the back, the automatic winding rotor takes the shape of a three-dimensional red sun with sculpted rays. This watch is a perfect example of mechanical creativity at its finest.
Seiko Prospex LX Line Diver’s—Winner, Diver’s Watch Prize
The category’s name is pretty self-explanatory, with the award being given to a watch that excels in the world of diving, and whose functions, materials and design are best suited to this activity. No surprise then that Seiko, a master in the segment, took home the prize with the Prospex LX Line. The watch is a nod to Seiko’s first diver’s watch, which was introduced in 1968. The award-winning watch features Seiko’s globally adored Spring Drive technology and a water resistance of up to 300m.
Chanel, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Genus, Hermès, Kudoke, Ming, Tudor, Urwerk, Vacheron Constantin and Voutilainen were among the recipients of awards from the rest of the categories.
Noteworthy Finalists:
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori—Finalist, Ladies
This category demands a simple ladies watch with basic functions and an eight-carat limit on gem-setting, making the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori a great entrant in this list. The watch has a classic Serpenti case, which is amplified copiously with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds. The stunning timepiece also features a brand new bracelet, constructed out of hexagon-shaped links in gold, presented as an absolute, three-dimensional rendition of a snakeskin pattern. However, the award went to the Chanel J12, a watch that made the full-ceramic concept mainstream.
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Mercury—Finalist, ‘Petite Aiguille’
The ‘Petite Aiguille’ is a category that features watches with a retail price between CHF 4,000 and 10,000. The Aikon Mercury, with its unconventional complication, was a fine contender for this list. The watch features a highly original and quirky display of time where, if tilted upwards, the hands lose their time-telling positions and rise up to 12 o’clock. But as soon as you tilt the watch upright to a conventional time-reading position, the hands swing back to show the time, which the movement beating within never stopped keeping.
TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph—Finalist, Chronometry
The TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph features the brand’s in-house Isograph technology, which makes use of virtually weightless carbon compound hairsprings. This helps negate magnetic and gravitational interferences, making it a top-brass entry for this list. The chronometry award goes to the watch that has made strides in the technology for precision timekeeping. This year, however, the award went to Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud for its Carburised steel regulator.
Ulysse Nardin Freak X—Finalist, Men’s Complication
The Freak, at its inception, was among the first watches to dabble with silicon components in its movement, but what made the watch truly unique was its unconventional portrayal of time. This variant of the Freak, named Freak X, is a more accessible and wearable form of the original concept. The minutes are indicated by the central bridge itself, and the shorter hour hand is anchored to a wheel in the center of the dial.
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival—Finalist, Iconic
The Iconic Watch Prize is a category new to GPHG that features watches from an emblematic collection that has been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years. The A384, which was launched in 1969 featured the revolutionary El Primero movement. This Revival is an ode to Zenith’s market-disruptor and is a faithfully recreated watch that the new generation of horological enthusiasts can experience—an icon in the truest sense of the word. Released 50 years after the original El Primero, this new recreation features the calibre El Primero 400, a movement as impressive as the watch’s heritage. The prize, however, was taken home by Audemars Piguet for the Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-thin.
The complete list of winners at the GPHG 2019:
‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Ladies’ Watch Prize
Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1
Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize
MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT
Men’s Watch Prize
Voutilainen 28ti
Men’s Complication Watch Prize
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
Iconic Watch Prize
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-thin
Chronometry Watch Prize
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Carburised steel regulator
Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize
Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune
Mechanical Exception Watch Prize
Genus GNS1.2
Chronograph Watch Prize
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
Diver’s Watch Prize
Seiko Prospex LX line diver’s
Jewellery Watch Prize
Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Romani
Artistic Crafts Watch Prize
Voutilainen Starry Night Vine
‘Petite Aiguille’ Prize
Kudoke Kudoke 2
Challenge Watch Prize
Tudor Black Bay P01
Innovation Prize
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar
Audacity Prize
Urwerk AMC
‘Horological Revelation’ Prize
Ming 17.06 Copper
Special Jury Prize
Luc Pettavino, Founder and Organiser of Only Watch
Shop The Story
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BVLGARI Octo
103068
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BVLGARI Serpenti
103146
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Maurice Lacroix Aikon
AI6028-SS001-030-1
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TAG Heuer Autavia
WBE5112.FC8266
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Ulysse Nardin Freak
2303-270/03
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Zenith Chronomaster
03.A384.400/21.C815
