ReviewThe ‘H. Moser X MB&F’ Endeavour Flying Tourbillon—A Crossover Spectacle

There’s no doubt really that both H. Moser & Cie. as well as MB&F were going for a big statement with their collaboration watches. Just take a look at the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon ‘H. Moser X MB&F’ and you’ll be immediately captivated by the spectacle that it presents. Now this isn’t the first watch to ever explore a three-dimensional appearance, with a raised structure and a full silhouette, but it certainly doesn’t adopt this form without reason or simply for the theatre. Style definitely follows substance in this interpretation of an MB&F signature, and we believe H. Moser & Cie. have done a terrific job with it.

The Independents Unite

Watch manufacturers have had phenomenal collaborations with other brands over time—the likes of Breitling and luxury automobile maker Bentley, or Hublot and Formula One team Scuderia Ferrari—often leading to fantastic special editions featuring elements that represent the collaborating partner. However, a partnership between two watch manufacturers resulting in special editions is quite rare. But the truth is that such a collaboration is probably more natural than anything else like it in the industry.

There’s no doubt really that both H. Moser & Cie. as well as MB&F were going for a big statement with their collaboration watches. Seen here is the 'H. Moser X MB&F' Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon (left) and the 'MB&F X H. Moser' LM101

So when H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F decided to join hands, it was interesting for sure, but felt completely right. Especially since the two companies have a connection, it makes even more sense. Both the independent watchmakers have been working with Precision Engineering AG—a sister concern of H. Moser & Cie. that supplies balance springs to MB&F. Besides, Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser—the CEOs of H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F, respectively—have known each other for quite a while now.

“When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series,” expounds Büsser, speaking of the H. Moser ‘Concept’ editions, which are versions of their core collection watches that are devoid of any markings or emblems. “Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on the condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines.” Büsser—whose mother is Indian—then speaks of his own background. “Being 50-percent Indian and 50-percent Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking?” Thus Büsser recommended to Meylan that the MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT would be just the right watch for H. Moser to reinterpret. And if you have a look at the Flying T, you’ll see how close the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is to it, while still retaining the essence of H. Moser & Cie.—most notably the fumé dial. The fumé is incidentally one of the elements that even Büsser has incorporated into the MB&F side of the crossover.

Standing Tall

The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon features a spherically-domed sapphire crystal glass to accommodate the mechanism that bursts through the dial

The one-minute flying tourbillon cage seen in the upper half of the façade presents a vertical form owing to the cylindrical balance spring used in it

The Endeavour leg of the crossover draws significantly from the three-dimensional modality of MB&F’s watches—of course, with a spherically-domed sapphire crystal glass to accommodate the mechanism that bursts through the dial making for some horological theatre. The one-minute flying tourbillon cage seen in the upper half of the façade presents a vertical form owing to the cylindrical balance spring used in it. This component is the same as the one developed by Precision Engineering for MB&F’s watches that inspired this piece.

The cylindrical balance spring seen in the tourbillon is a version of the same component developed by Precision Engineering for MB&F’s watches that inspired this piece

What sets Moser’s rendition apart though is the fact that it is crafted out of sapphire crystal, which helps elevate the skeletonised display in more ways than one

At 40 degrees, it is mounted on a conical gear train that connects the hands to the rest of the movement

The domed sapphire crystal glass gives this watch a larger-than-life appearance

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The cylindrical form isn’t just a visually interesting way of constructing the balance spring. It was first developed way back in the 1700s, seen in marine chronometers, and known for greatly increasing accuracy. To cut a long story short, the vertical construction reduces the force on the pivots of the balance spring, hence greatly improving the isochronism (or the duration of an oscillation being unaffected by the amplitude of the oscillation). To make this cylindrical balance spring is a challenge in itself, but not for Precision Engineering AG, who have the experience of making the mechanism for MB&F. This automatic calibre, the HMC 810, which provides a minimum power reserve of 72 hours can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback.

The Marvellous Dome

This eponymous cylindrical tourbillon is a fascinating sight to behold as you see the watch in motion (have a look at the video below). However, the true pièce de résistance in this watch is the off-centred, tilted timekeeping dial. Another element borrowed from MB&F, the dial is fashioned such in order to keep its view for the wearer’s eyes only. What sets Moser’s rendition apart though is the fact that it is crafted out of sapphire crystal, which helps elevate the skeletonised display in more ways than one, while the components of the calibre are stripped down, quite literally. At 40 degrees, it is mounted on a conical gear train that connects the hands to the rest of the movement. This construction enhances the dimensionality further, lending the display added visual depth.

“We have ‘Moserised’ the MB&F universe [with this] dial, which melts into the background so as to highlight the beauty of our own fumé dials,” adds Meylan. “And to preserve the purity and elegance of this true work of horological art, we have inscribed our logo like a watermark on it.” H. Moser’s signature fumé dial, which forms the canvas for this multi-layered vision, is realised in five variations—funky blue, cosmic green, burgundy, off-white and ice blue—each set in a 42mm steel case, with the crown on the left.

This crossover project between these independent watchmakers comes to fruition in the year that marks the 15th anniversary of MB&F and (the relaunch of) H. Moser & Cie. Hence, each colour variant is a limited edition of 15 pieces. A beautiful piece of watchmaking, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon makes us wonder what other fascinating tourbillon watch the world of watchmaking can offer if more such partnerships are forged.

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