ReviewH. Moser & Cie.’s Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Explores The Third Dimension With Sheer Brilliance

When one thinks of skeleton watches, H. Moser & Cie. may not be among the first names to come to mind. After all, the brand has sealed its place as the master of minimalism, driven by supreme technical innovation. Their clutter-free fumé dials in vibrant hues occupying pride of place in their timekeepers goes on to show how important the ‘watch face’ is for them in order to execute their art on such a canvas. So, when they launched the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton at Watches and Wonders 2022 in Geneva, it took many by surprise—a pleasant one, of course.

In fact, this open-worked creation was well rewarded at last year’s edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), that unfolded on November 10 in Geneva, Switzerland. It bagged the ‘Tourbillon Watch’ prize at the ‘Oscars’ of the watchmaking industry for its sheer mechanical brilliance.

In the recent past, Moser have not really launched too many skeletonised watches—with the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Skeleton being their highlight sometime back in 2015, if one jogs their memory. The new timepiece infuses a freshness in Moser’s repertoire of watches, combining innovation and design codes that are true to the brand’s DNA of staying contemporary while interpreting traditional watchmaking skills in their own manner, a formula that works best for them. In fact, in an interview last year, CEO Edouard Meylan spoke to The Watch Guide about their unique watchmaking trajectory with a focus on their highlights from 2022.

“The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon is on the opposite end of the spectrum—very sporty, bold, a statement watch. The hairspring is cylindrical. You know we master the hairspring—we do it ourselves—but this was the first time that we used it in a skeleton display. In steel, it’s very practical, but also spectacular,” he explained. Let’s take a look at its defining features.

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton bagged the ‘Tourbillon Watch’ prize at last year’s edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), held on November 10 in Geneva, Switzerland

The sporty and bold timepiece comes in a spectacular steel case—making it practical for daily wear as well, unlike other tourbillon watches that might only be reserved for special occasions

Sporty Frame: The Pioneer Case

The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton comes in a 42.8mm, stainless steel case that makes for an ideal framework to house the entire skeletonised mechanism. Though one would probably not wear an open-worked timepiece on a daily basis but this dramatic, sculptural piece can be worn every day, thanks to its balanced proportions and water-resistance up to 120m. The Pioneer case was a conscious choice for this timekeeper due to its contemporary, sports-watch aesthetic in spite of its robust measurements. It forms the perfect structure to house and showcase the HMC 811 three-dimensional manufacture calibre, which is designed to be a true work of art, and Moser have taken a new approach for this cylindrical tourbillon movement, which is enhanced under a slightly domed sapphire crystal.

The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton comes in a 42.8mm, stainless steel case that makes for an ideal framework to house the entire skeletonised mechanism. The Pioneer case was a conscious choice for this timekeeper due to its contemporary, sports-watch aesthetic in spite of its robust measurements

Open-Worked Face: The Dial

The skeletonised watch face is truly a sight to behold. While Moser are known for their clean, minimalistic and vibrant fumé dials; they have managed to keep the dial of the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton also relatively clutter-free. Despite being a skeletonised watch, the dial doesn’t look busy at all and offers a basic reading of the hours and minutes thanks to a disc at 12 o’clock, while the tourbillon holds pride of place at six o’clock. One can admire the architecture of the movement while also getting a glimpse of the inner workings due to the skeletonised structure of the dial. The sub-dial comes in the company’s signature Funky Blue hue with a fumé gradient, and features the brand logo in white which looks subtle in contrast to the bold indices—created using Globolight—a ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova, and adds to the three-dimensional nature of the piece, as do the inserts which top the hour and minute hands, also in Globolight. The new HMC 811 calibre has been skeletonised on both the front and the reverse side, and the beauty of this movement is further enhanced by the lightness of the flying tourbillon, which twirls gracefully under the sapphire crystal.

Despite being a skeletonised watch, the dial doesn’t look busy, and features the hours and minutes hands on a disc at 12 o’clock, while the tourbillon holds pride of place at six o’clock

₹87,00,000

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The watch is presented on a black alligator leather strap, but can also be worn with a steel, rubber, textile or kudu leather strap, providing a variety of options to the wearer

₹87,00,000

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The sub-dial comes in Moser's Funky Blue hue with a fumé gradient, and features the brand logo in white which looks subtle in contrast to the bold indices—created using Globolight

₹87,00,000

Check Our Selling Price

The calibre has been skeletonised on both sides, and the beauty of this movement is further enhanced by the lightness of the flying tourbillon, which twirls gracefully under the sapphire crystal

₹87,00,000

Check Our Selling Price

01

The In-House Movement: Calibre HMC 811

This large, fully skeletonised movement, measuring 34mm in diameter features a one-minute flying tourbillon, equipped with a cylindrical hairspring at six o’clock. Invented in the 18th century, the cylindrical hairspring rises perpendicularly around the upper stem of the balance spindle. A frequent feature on marine chronometers back in the day, it offers the advantage of developing the structure concentrically, and building up the mechanism vertically instead of expanding horizontally. Thanks to the cylindrical hairspring, fitted with two Breguet curves attached at two points, friction on the pivots is reduced and the isochronal properties of the movement are enhanced, more so when the hairspring is combined with a tourbillon as is the case here. Composed of 171 components, 28 jewels and beating at a frequency of 21,600vph, this automatic in-house movement offers a power reserve of 74 hours. However, the cylindrical hairspring is particularly difficult to produce because it requires very specific know-how and tools, and the teams at Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, had to remaster this expertise, as each cylindrical hairspring is shaped by hand, taking ten times longer to produce than a traditional hairspring. On turning the watch over, while one can view the entire movement and the working of its various components, a large, gold and fully skeletonised rotor is the showstopper here.

This large, fully-skeletonised, automatic movement, measuring 34mm is composed of 171 components, 28 jewels, and beats at a frequency of 21,600vph, offering a 74-hour power reserve

The one-minute flying tourbillon at six o'clock is equipped with a cylindrical hairspring, which reduces the friction on the pivots, and enhances the isochronal properties of the movement

The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is presented on a black alligator leather strap, but can also be worn with a steel, rubber, textile or kudu leather strap, providing a variety of options to the wearer. Even though it’s a dramatic timepiece, it can be worn daily, thanks to its versatile aesthetic, and we are hoping this will unleash a new chapter for the brand as it ventures into the territory of skeletonised watches, executed in the signature Moser style.