ReviewThe Dressiest Dark: H. Moser & Cie’s Endeavour Vantablack Centre Seconds

The founder of Ford Motor Company, Henry Ford reportedly once said that any customer could have a Ford automobile in any colour, ‘so long as it is black’. It’s a line used as a joke in social conversations and some wonder if it’s even a true quote. Regardless, it speaks to the sophistication of the colour black, as one that can’t be replaced with any other. We all know that orange or any other hue could never be the new black. There’s a reason why expressions such as ‘black tie’ and ‘little black dress’ have never gone out of style, through decades and generations of other trends that have come and gone. In that very vein, there is one archetype of timepieces that is timeless. It’s the dress watch. And while gold and brown are nice and warm, the elegance of black (and white) transcends everything else. Although often preferred with a white dial and a black leather strap, dress watches with black dials offer unparalleled charm. And who could think of any brand having done black dials quite like H. Moser & Cie. have? Their usage of Vantablack in recent years has elevated—or deepened—black dials beyond the colour itself. In the Endeavour Vantablack especially, the black-dial dress watch has found new meaning.

Endeavour Vantablack And The Blackest Black

It’s one thing to use colour on a dial through various high-craft techniques, such as lacquering or enamelling. However, to present the blackest of blacks by coating the dial with a substance that doesn’t require any colouring is what gives the ‘colour’ of a dial new meaning. A material used in the aerospace and defence sectors, Vantablack is named after the acronym ‘VANTA’ which expands to: vertically aligned carbon nanotube arrays.

“It’s the blackest black on earth. Put it next to anything black, and you’ll see that the contrast is incredible. And the human brain cannot capture the density of the Vantablack,” explains H. Moser’s CEO, Edouard Meylan

“It’s the blackest black on earth. Put it next to anything black, and you’ll see that the contrast is incredible. And the human brain cannot capture the density of the Vantablack,” explains H. Moser’s CEO, Edouard Meylan. “It sees everything as two-dimensional. It’s very complicated to create.” The material that absorbs up to 99.96 percent of visible light has been used in H. Moser’s timepieces before. It’s been seen most prominently in their ‘Concept’ dials that do away with all markings, making for the ultimate in minimalism.

In the Endeavour Vantablack Centre Seconds, even with the very modern Vantablack of the dial, the presence of hour markers immediately lends the timepiece classicism that hasn’t quite been seen to this extent among H. Moser’s other Vantablack offerings

The Classical Side Of Vantablack

While a Venturer Vantablack was definitely a dress watch, the blank Concept dial gave it a modern touch that was almost edgy in nature. However, with the Endeavour Vantablack Centre Seconds, even with the very modern Vantablack of the dial, the presence of hour markers immediately lends the timepiece classicism that hasn’t quite been seen to this extent among H. Moser’s other Vantablack offerings. Moreover, the material itself gets more intense, with the metallic markers having been applied from underneath, through cut-outs. The slightest bit of contrast comes from the deep purple of the seconds hand, which denotes that the movement within has a double hairspring.

Endeavour Vantablack And The Colours Of The Calibre

This double-hairspring movement behind the Vantablack dial is the HMC 200 automatic manufacture calibre. And through the caseback view what signifies the double hairspring is the blue balance bridge. The hairsprings operate in opposite directions, which helps counter external impact on the escapement. Meanwhile, the power reserve it can store is up to 72 hours.

This double-hairspring movement behind the Vantablack dial is the HMC 200 automatic manufacture calibre, seen here through the transparent caseback

What signifies the double hairspring of the movement is the blue balance bridge

This movement is housed within a 40mm case in steel. Water-resistant to 30m, the case with smooth lines complements the sleek hour markers and leaf-shaped hands—all in steel hues. The white hues of steel offer the perfect contrast against the Vantablack of the dial and the black alligator leather strap.

Together these steel elements lift the visual appeal of the Endeavour Vantablack, making it the perfect classical dress watch. The stark tones, contrast and the depth of timeless black make it quite the ultimate one at that. Like Ford’s cars, ‘black tie’ classics and the ‘little black dress’, this timepiece could never go out of style, without the shadow a doubt.