SpotlightNature-Inspired Japanese Timekeeping: Grand Seiko Unveil Three Delightful Watches In Their Evolution, Spring Drive, And Masterpiece Collections

Known for their premier technology and magnificent craftsmanship, Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko never disappoint when it comes to creating something new. And at Watches and Wonders, this year, the brand have revisited the dress watch era of the 1960s when manual-winding timepieces were the order of the day. They have introduced two new 38.6mm models in the Evolution 9 Collection—one in titanium and the other in 18-karat rose gold, limited to 80 pieces only. Here, several aspects of the design have been revisited; from the prominent, grooved indexes, which have been slimmed down and elongated, to the multifaceted lugs, which are now narrower and have a smaller surface area. The watch’s centre of gravity has been lowered to ensure the comfort and stability for the wearer.

The dial is inspired by the white birch trees found in northern parts of Japan and this is evident in the exquisite pattern, which echoes the beauty of the tree’s bark with its fine veinous texture. It is driven by the new 9SA4 movement, which beats 10 times per second while achieving a power reserve of 80 hours when fully wound, thanks to its Dual Impulse Escapement and two barrels. It is also equipped with the brand’s free-sprung balance and a hairspring with overcoil, which allows greater rate stability, resistance to outside interference, and high performance that have been hallmarks of Grand Seiko’s high-beat movements.

Grand Seiko have revisited the dress watch era of the 1960s when manual-winding timepieces were the order of the day. They have introduced two new 38.6mm models in the Evolution 9 Collection—one in titanium and the other in 18-karat rose gold, limited to 80 pieces only

Here, nearly 40 percent of the base movement has been redesigned and reconstructed to ensure the watch winds well and is not impacted by any tactile sensations. The movement’s click—the part that holds the ratchet wheel to prevent the unwinding of the mainsprings, and the click spring—have been tailored to perfection. It has been designed in the shape of a wagtail—a bird found in Morioka—the Japanese city close to the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi—where all the tech marvels from the brand are developed. The crown stops when the mechanism is fully wound.

Then there is also a vibrant offering with a dial that changes hues—much like how the sunrise hits the landscape and illuminates it in different shades found in the sky in the wee hours. A shape-shifter in its own right, the newest Spring Drive Chronograph GMT comes in a robust, 44.5mm angular case whose design is inspired by the lion—a symbol of the brand since the first Grand Seiko watch was created in 1960. The dial is inspired by the Hotaka mountain range in the Shinshu region of central Japan, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches are developed. This vast landscape looks beautiful at the crack of dawn when the sunrays hit the range, all while changing hues from pink to orange. This has been made possible thanks to a patented dial-coating procedure known as ‘Optical Multilayer Coating’. This enhanced technology involves a physical vapour deposition process, where ‘several layers of nanoscale film create an effect in which the dial exhibits a different hue depending on the angle of view’. Limited to 700 pieces only, the timepiece comes in titanium along with a matching bracelet with claw-like, hairline-finished lugs, with Zaratsu-polished surfaces. Water-resistant to 200m, it is driven by the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Calibre 9R96, which delivers an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month, or ±0.5 seconds per day, with a power reserve of at least 72 hours.

The new Spring Drive Chronograph GMT comes in a robust, 44.5mm angular case replete with a dial that changes hues to resemble the sky at dawn

Water-resistant to 200m, it is driven by the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Calibre 9R96, with an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month, or ±0.5 seconds per day, with a power reserve of 72 hours

Another timepiece that has joined the quest for accuracy, legibility, and durability is the new avatar of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. First launched in 2022, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, combined a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the first time in the fine watchmaking sphere and went on to win the Chronometry Prize at that year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). While the original version boasts a noir aesthetic, presented on a black leather strap complementing the titanium case, the new watch is a limited-edition of 20 pieces, inspired by daybreak. Here, the movement components have a silver tone, imparting a subtle but bright appearance that enhances the complex and layered parts. The components are hand-polished, which add to the lustre of this timepiece. Another interesting thing to note is that for the first time, blue sapphires have been used for the jewels in a Grand Seiko movement, which also represent the clear, early morning skies.

The new Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is a limited-edition of 20 pieces, inspired by daybreak. Here, the movement components have a silver tone, imparting a subtle but bright appearance that enhances the complex and layered parts

It is driven by the Calibre 9ST1, with a generous 72-hour power reserve. This mechanism is composed of approximately 340 components and on the constant-force carriage, one can see a single red ruby, placed on one of the arms indicating the elapsed seconds. This tech marvel is presented on an exclusively-crafted white leather strap made through tanning with natural materials.