SpotlightThe GPHG 2023 Prize Winners Are…

The biggest honours in the world of horology came around for the 23rd time this Thursday, November 9, in Geneva, Switzerland—arguably the watchmaking capital of the world. With the who’s who of the watch industry in attendance, the GPHG 2023 (the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2023) ceremony brought to light the winners of these honours. Winning the top prize was the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. Other top winners included high-complication novelties from the likes of Bovet and Laurent Ferrier, a very traditional piece from Raymond Weil, and an haute joaillerie masterpiece from Bulgari. The special jury prize, which is awarded to outstanding personality or institution in the world of watchmaking, was bestowed upon Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese, for their achievement that is the creation of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (Watchmaking Academy of Independent Creators). Here are a few highlights from the 2023 edition of the GPHGs.

Tourbillon watch prize: GPHG 2023

Laurent Ferrier, Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit

Not often hidden from the display, the tourbillon complication is usually revealed with pride, in partial open-worked dials, if not fully skeletonised watch faces. Laurent Ferrier perhaps deserved this win simply for choosing to remain understated. The tourbillon cage is concealed behind the gorgeous salmon dial of this Grand Sport, which follows the brand’s signature template of their version of the integrated steel sport watch. This tourbillon is part of the manual-winding movement that offers a power reserve of 80 hours. Of course Laurent Ferrier, weren’t going to deprive the wearer completely, so the movement and the tourbillon mechanism is visible through an exhibition caseback.

This tourbillon is part of the manual-winding movement that offers a power reserve of 80 hours

Of course Laurent Ferrier weren’t going to deprive the wearer completely, so the movement and the tourbillon mechanism is visible through an exhibition caseback

Calendar and astronomy watch prize: GPHG 2023

Bovet Récital 20 Astérium

On the other end of spectrum is this Bovet Astérium, which displays the marvellous movement in all it’s open-worked glory. This grand-complication timepiece has a tonne of functions that you don’t come across every day, even from the highest-end brands. Aside from the basic hours, minutes and seconds, the calendar watch includes the date, day, month, a power reserve indicator, retrograde minutes, tourbillon, equation of time, a special escapement, an annual calendar, and indications of summer and winter equinox. All this runs on high-performance manual-winding calibre that can store a power reserve of a whopping 10 days. It all comes housed in a generously-sized case, in white gold, with lugs in red gold.

This grand-complication timepiece has a tonne of functions that you don’t come across every day, even from the highest-end brands

The calendar watch includes the date, day, month, a power reserve indicator, retrograde minutes, tourbillon, equation of time, a special escapement, an annual calendar, and indications of summer and winter equinox

Jewellery watch prize: GPHG 2023

Bulgari Serpenti Cleopatra

Shifting the focus from high watchmaking to high jewellery is Bulgari’s Serpenti Cleopatra cuff timepiece, which celebrates Queen Cleopatra—the Italian jeweller’s long-term inspiration—whose accessories included precious cuffs. A shift from the signature serpentine forms seen in this collection, this cuff is made from pink gold, but it still features the hexagonal pattern inspired by a serpent’s scales. The cuff is set with three topazes, two rubellites, two tanzanites, two amethysts, and otherwise paved with diamonds. The diamonds alone weigh about 86.5 carat. This piece of haute joaillerie runs on a quartz movement.

‘Challenge Watch’ prize: GPHG 2023

Raymond Weil Millésime Automatic Small Seconds

And paring things down completely is this traditional time-only Raymond Weil Millésime, with a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock. It is meant to ‘pay homage to the rich heritage and traditions of horology while celebrating the simplicity of refined design’. And it does so with sheer grace. The attention to detail in the design and the finishing is perfectly in line with fine watchmaking traditions, while the almost monotone treatment presents a soothing, sublime appearance. All this elegance makes the Millésime worthy of the ‘Challenge Watch’ prize, which is given for excellence in watches that are priced below CHF 3,500. This 39.5mm steel watch offers a power reserve of 38 hours.

And paring things down completely is this traditional time-only Raymond Weil Millésime, with a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock

It is meant to ‘pay homage to the rich heritage and traditions of horology while celebrating the simplicity of refined design’

Other GPHG 2023 Prize Winners

‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4

Ladies’ Watch Prize: Piaget Hidden Treasures

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Dior Montres Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior

Men’s Complication Watch Prize: Voutilainen World Timer

Iconic Watch Prize: Ulysse Nardin Freak One

Chronograph Watch Prize: Petermann Bédat Chronographe rattrapante

Sports Watch Prize: Tudor Pelagos 39

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Piaget Altiplano Métiers d’Art – Undulata

‘Petite Aiguille’ Prize: Christopher Ward London C1 Bel Canto

Mechanical Clock Prize: L’Epée 1839 Time Fast II Chrome

Chronometry Prize: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC

‘Horological Revelation’ Prize: Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans

Audacity Prize: Maison Alcée Persée Azur

Innovation Prize: Hautlence Sphere Series 1

Special Jury Prize: Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese