ReviewA Sky Full Of Stars Served Three Ways—The Girard-Perregaux Orion Trilogy

Aventurine has become one of the most prominent alternative materials used for watch dials in recent years, from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne and Jaquet Droz to Bulgari and Omega. The material is perhaps favoured because of the mesmerising visual it presents, and the depth it portrays. Akin to a starry sky, the material is often seen in watches that feature astronomical complications such as the moon phase display, forming the perfect backdrop for, say, a representation of the solar system or the galaxy. The Girard-Perregaux Orion Trilogy draws from this very significance of the material. The face of this watch has been likened to the stars and constellations seen in the night sky, as Girard-Perregaux themselves call it a tribute to the mythological creation of the Orion constellation—when Greek god Zeus placed the giant hunter Orion amidst the stars. Myths and legends aside though, the beautiful dial does enhance the look of the classical dress watch and gives it a captivating presence, as it complements the elegance that is synonymous with Girard-Perregaux’s 1966 collection.

The Eponymous Year

Strangely, the 1966 series—one of the five pillars in Girard-Perregaux’s repertoire—goes back to the year 1957, which was when the manufacture introduced the Gyromatic. This historical watch, with a remarkably thin, self-winding calibre, paved the way for the development of a high-frequency automatic movement, and subsequently, an entire collection that was named after the year it was launched—1966. Over the years, the 1966 collection has exemplified the essence of the Gyromatic, with thin movements that allow the timepieces to remain slim, and present a minimal appearance that complements the profile. All the while, the collection has celebrated the archetypal design of classical watches, with round cases and clear dials, and refined details.

The beautiful dial enhances the look of the classical dress watch and gives it a captivating presence

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The aventurine dial really does complement the elegance that is synonymous with Girard-Perregaux’s 1966 collection

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Finesse In Form

In keeping with the understated appeal of a classic dress watch, the 1966 Orion timepieces are sized at a modest 40mm, in all three models—steel, steel treated with black DLC (diamond-like carbon), and pink gold. The thickness of merely 9.4mm enables the watch to sit quite flat on the wrist, and even remain comfortably tucked under the cuff of a dress shirt, even if they’re not French cuffs! These unassuming dimensions are all owing to the thin movement, which is just 25.6mm in diameter and an impressive 3.36mm in height. Quite compact for a self-winding movement, complete with its oscillating mass, this calibre comprises 218 components and beats at a standard frequency of 28,800vph, offering a decent 46-hour power reserve. It’s evident that Girard-Perregaux take great pride in the decoration of even the internal components of their watches, as you’ll see through the sapphire crystal caseback, which has a smoky appearance in the DLC version. With finishing on the metal including perlage and linear Côtes de Genève, the oscillating mass has the circular variety of the latter. In the pink gold Orion, this rotor is actually made of solid 18-karat pink gold to match the case.

In keeping with the understated appeal of a classic dress watch, the 1966 Orion timepieces are sized at a modest 40mm, in all three models—pink gold, steel, and steel treated with black DLC (diamond-like carbon)

Flip the watches to the front, and you’ll see that the elongated hour markers and the feuille- or leaf-shaped hands are also coloured to complement the hue of the case in the plain steel and pink gold versions. Other elements on the dial include the date at three o’clock and the Girard-Perregaux monogram with their signature bridge at 12. The dial itself is the pièce de résistance in each of these watches.

The aventurine dial in the the DLC version goes darker in black for a monochromatic look

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The Orion watch in DLC-treated steel comes with a strap in antharacite, with a buckle in the same material as the case

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The Stars Shine Down

The aventurine centrepiece is interestingly domed, which isn’t quite apparent at first glance, and you’ll probably need to take a good look at it from different angles to really see the convex form of the façade. However, the visual impact that the domed structure creates is instantly apparent and quite fascinating at that. The metallic flecks and specks that are reminiscent of stars in the sky give it such fabulous depth already and the shape enhances it even further, truly mesmerising any beholder. It certainly isn’t easy for the fine material to be crafted this way, making it all the more impressive. Of course, the steel and gold versions in the trilogy keep things classic with the aventurine in blue, while the DLC version goes darker in black for a monochromatic look. To add that final touch to the face of the watch is the domed sapphire crystal glass.

Affixed to each Orion piece is a hand-patinated alligator leather strap—seen in blue on the steel and gold watches, and in anthracite on the DLC variant. The simple pin-buckle is made from the same material as the case of each timepiece. The overall finesse in each watch is quite appealing and will surely stand the test of time, owing to its evergreen quality. At the same time, the dial provides just the right hint of a sparkle that you might desire from a special piece of this nature in your watch wardrobe, without the excess of jewels or bling. A classic dress watch is one that everyone should have, and resplendent pieces like these spin the classical look to make a statement that’s ever so subtle, yet extremely distinctive.