ReviewTitanium Birthday Party: Introducing The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

Starting life as an integrated steel sports watch with a quartz movement in 1975, the Laureato has evolved to become a recognisable titan among mechanical watches today, with open-worked dials, mechanical movements that support functions like the chronograph, and the use of materials like sapphire crystal and carbon for the case. All with the recognisable 1970s octagonal bezel on a rounded case and integrated bracelet. One would think they’ve done it all. And yet, as the collection turns 49 this year, the brand innovate yet again with titanium in their timepieces. The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 comes in a grade-5 titanium case and integrated bracelet—without the DLC and PVD treatments known to colour the watch—in its natural metallic matt grey form.

The Graduate Turns 49 With The Ti49

In 1975, when the mechanical watch industry faced its biggest ever crisis, Girard-Perregaux released the Quartz Chronometer. The watch’s tonneau shaped case was complemented by a eight-sided bezel. Named after the 1967 film The Graduate—or Il Laureato in Italian—this timepiece was initially powered by a cutting-edge quartz calibre. The collection graduated to mechanical movements once the industry had stabilised. Since 2017, when the collection was revived and re-released after a hiatus, the Laureato has become an icon in its own right. Today, the Laureato collection includes three-hand watches in the Classic series, chronographs, Skeleton timepieces, and the Absolute line’s larger-than-life presence with innovative materials and colour.

Since 2017, when the collection was revived and re-released after a hiatus, the Laureato has become an icon in its own right

Today, the Laureato collection includes the Classic series, chronographs (seen here is the latest Laureato Chronograph Ti49), Skeleton timepieces, and the Absolute line

(You can read about the Laureato journey here.)

The Strong, Durable, Hypoallergenic Laureato Chronograph Ti49

Strictly speaking, this isn’t the first Laureato timepiece featuring a titanium case. However, this is the first time the material has been showcased in all its muted matt grey glory. The 42mm case of the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 is made from grade 5 titanium and features brushed and polished finishes that highlight the aesthetic appeal of the metal. The bezel, for instance, is polished on its faceted sides, while its top features a brushed finish. The integrated bracelet further enhances this with the H-links in a brushed finish, while the centre links stand out with their polished sheen. These contrasting finishes, coupled with the multi-layer construction of the case and octagonal bezel enhance the visual depth of the Laureato Chronograph Ti49.

The 42mm case of the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 is made from grade-5 titanium and features brushed and polished finishes that highlight the aesthetic appeal of the metal. The bezel, for instance, is polished on its facetted sides, while its top features a brushed finish

Laureato Chronograph Ti49: Muted, Monochromatic, Magnificent

Then there is the darker grey dial with a clous de Paris motif that further intensifies the watch’s depth and dimension. A minute track marked in white sits around the periphery of the dial. Baton shaped hour markers and timekeeping hands are treated in grey PVD, and filled with Super-LumiNova to aid legibility. The hobnail motif of the dial is disrupted by three chronograph counters at three, six and nine o’clock, featuring a contrasting radial finish, and numerals painted on in a light grey. In keeping with the monochromatic theme of the timepiece, a rhombic date window sits discreetly at 4.30, visible when you look for it, but otherwise quietly nestled between the chronograph recorders.

A darker grey dial with a clous de Paris motif that further intensifies the depth and dimension of the Laureato Chronograph Ti49

Contrasting finishing, coupled with the multi-layer construction of the case and octagonal bezel enhance the visual depth of the Laureato Chronograph Ti49

The hobnail motif of the dial is disrupted by three chronograph counters at three, six and nine o’clock, featuring a contrasting radial finish, and painted light grey numerals

01

Inside the timepiece is the brand’s automatic GP03300-0141 calibre, with a power reserve of 46 hours. Unfortunately, this is hidden behind a closed titanium caseback, presumably so the watch could secure its 100m water resistance rating.

Inside the timepiece is the brand’s automatic GP03300-0141 calibre, with a power reserve of 46 hours

Unfortunately, this is hidden behind a closed titanium caseback, presumably so the watch could secure its 100m water resistance rating

The monochromatic aesthetic of the timepiece is as deliberate and well thought-out as everything else the brand do. No other colour would have emphasised the titanium finishing of the case and bracelet as much as the marginally darker shade of grey on the dial of the Laureato Chronograph Ti49. Considering that the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 timepiece marks 49 years for the collection, one can’t help but look forward to the half-centenary anniversary celebrations next year.