Round-UpThe Highlights From Geneva Watch Days 2022: 20 Terrific Timepieces
With Geneva Watch Days quite clearly now among the ranks of the most prominent watch fairs of the year, it’s become an event to look out for. With many new exhibitors at the recently-concluded third edition, every brand present was there to shine. Here are just a few of the outstanding novelties showcased
May We Recommend
Alpina
Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic
The newly designed Alpiner case presents an outer cushion shape that gives it a very distinctive appearance, standing out from the crowd, and it is definitely a step in the right direction for this collection. With chiselled and bevelled edges and satin and brushed finishing, the watch makes quite the impression. The regulator-style display is not new for Alpina—nor is the 38-hour automatic movement that runs it—but the overall execution is fresh and nuanced. The triangular pattern on the dial complements the texture on the rubber strap, while the blue-and-grey colour scheme seems just right for this 41mm steel timekeeper. This here is a limited edition of 888 pieces.
Angelus
Chronodate
This Chronodate is the modern interpretation of Angelus’s Chronodate from the 1940s. First unveiled at Watches and Wonders earlier this year, this rendition was presented in titanium with a blue or opaline grey dial, or in gold with blue. Now the brand have released this sporty edition in titanium with green. The bicompax layout of the chronograph watch stands out with the prominent borders of the sub-dials. Also in even numbers are the hands—a fourth hand for the analogue date, displayed on the inclined flange with finesse. The notches on the mono-bloc bezel, the open-worked lugs and the structured chronograph pushers all create a robust look, complementing the functionality of this 42.5mm timepiece. It runs on an automatic calibre, which offers a significant power reserve of 60 hours.
Arnold & Son
Luna Magna Ultimate II
Luna Magna is clearly becoming the gift that keeps on giving, for Arnold & Son. While we were told that not every edition was planned at the time of the series’ initial launch, inspiration has struck the designers and watchmakers in spades for this line. One of the most impressive aspects of the jewelled Ultimate editions are the baguette-cut stones on the bezel—not something you see very often. The highlight of the Ultimate II though is the sublime shimmering-pastel colourway, executed with Paraiba tourmalines for the dark side of the 12mm 3D moon, and PVD-treated ruthenium crystals on the backdrop for the white opal off-centred dial. The light side of the moon features diamonds completing the look of this stunning moon-phase watch, which requires correction only once in 122 years. The 44mm white gold case comes with a blue alligator leather strap, with a striking raspberry pink lining.
Bulgari
Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days
Celebrating 10 years of the Octo collection, Bulgari unveiled a new edition of the Octo Finissimo Skeleton, with a newly-designed open-worked display and intricately-finished anthracite-PVD bridges and other movement components. The manual-winding calibre BVL 199 SK offers a whopping eight-day power reserve—indicated with flair on the dial, surrounding the small seconds. With brushed finishing and the iconic Octo structure, the watch is a triumph in open-worked, high-performance mechanics. And it adequately showcases the brand’s theme of contrasts—seen across all the new novelties unveiled at Geneva Watch Days this year. The grey interior presents striking contrast against the rose gold of the 40mm case, while the brown elements on the display complement the brown leather strap with perfection.
Bulgari
Serpenti Seduttori Black
More contrast presented with gold against black, this here is the brand-new black DLC-treated edition of the Serpenti Seduttori, which was first launched in steel and in gold back in 2019. The redesigned, flattened Serpenti case created waves when presented with a regular, clasping bracelet, as opposed to the coil that the Serpenti was known for. It just seems like a natural progression to now release the stunning snake-skin inspired hexagonal links of the bracelet and the case in DLC-treated steel. According to Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO, Bulgari, the idea was to first establish the Seduttori with materials that have a wider appeal, and then create more niche versions, such as with DLC treatment. Heightened contrast is seen by way of the bezel in 18-karat rose gold—which comes with or without diamonds—complemented by the golden markers and hands. The rose gold case, with cabochon-cut ceramic, connects to a quartz movement within the 33mm case.
Corum
Bubble Aiiroh and Bubble Skull X-Ray
The Corum Bubble collection has been known for showcasing artistic work, and literal works of art. It’s been ideal for this, owing to the magnification lent by the exaggerated convex glass seen on all editions. These latest 2022 Bubbles live up to that. The first one is the product of a collaboration with French street artist Aiiroh, whose work has been shown in galleries worldwide. His artwork for this watch is showcased through a fretwork-style floral pattern, adding to the depth and the visual splendour. Along with artists Soyz Bank and Namisen, Aiiroh has also created a piece of wall art that will serve as Corum’s certificate of authenticity for this watch.
Also presented this year is the new Skull X-Ray that has an almost 3D depiction of a human skull—a motif oft seen in works of art. The skull comes to life even more when it glows in the dark or when its seen under UV light and viewed from different angles. Both these watches feature the signature wide, open-worked hands of the Bubble collection, and run on the CO 082 automatic movement that offers a 42-hour power reserve. It comes housed in a 47mm black PVD-treated steel case in each watch.
Czapek
Quai des Bergues Emerald And Sapphire
The Quai des Bergues—named after the street where the historical Czapek’s first boutique was located—has been a signature watch for the recently revived manufacture. It is based on original founder François Czapek’s iconic pocket watch, with a signature display of two sub-dials on the lower half of the main dial—for small seconds and power reserve indication (along with a day indicator). While the modern wristwatch interpretations have seen tremendous success, including a Geneva Grand Prize (GPHG), the movement of this watch has not revealed as much in the past as it does now in 2022. The latest update to the line showcases more of the manual-winding calibre SXH1—redesigned to open up the mechanism, making quite a visual impact through the transparent back of the 42.5mm steel case. It still offers a staggering power reserve of seven days. This new rendition of the Quai des Bergues comes with a flinqué enamel dial with Czapek’s ‘ricochet guilloche’ pattern, in a new emerald green or sapphire blue.
Doxa
Army
Known for their high-performance dive watches that are extremely robust and reliable and of a professional standard, Doxa have held the distinction of making dive watches for the Swiss Army in the 1960s. However, they could never talk about it, as it was classified by the military. Last year, with the declassification of records about the watches issued for the army, Doxa seized the opportunity to highlight their legacy and create a contemporary edition of that watch. They made one version for a retail chain in Switzerland, and now they’ve created a new edition for wider distribution. With beige, green and orange elements, the 42.5mm steel watch is water-resistant to 300m. There is a version that also features bronze on the unidirectional-rotating dive-timer bezel. Each watch comes with three straps—green rubber, army camouflage nylon, and in Doxa’s signature beads-of-rice steel bracelet. The automatic movement within offers a 38-hour power reserve.
Frederique Constant
Classics Art Déco Carrée
The new edition of Frederique Constant’s elegant dress watch might just be their best Art Déco yet. The elements that benefit most from the form are the singular lugs, which are subtly embellished with diamonds in the two leather-strap versions. One of these comes with diamonds on the bezel as well, making for a wonderfully resplendent classic dress watch with a timeless appeal. The steel bracelet on the third version is also very refined, with smooth links, and a slinky feel on the wrist. All versions come with stunning mother-of-pearl dials, with silver-coloured guilloche work in the centre, surrounded by a minute track. The classic Roman numeral markers and Breguet-style hands complete the look. This petite steel watch, sized at 28mm by 20.7mm, runs on a quartz movement.
Frederique Constant
Classics Heart Beat Manufacture
Launched in a far more refined size than before, at 39mm, the Classics Heart Beat features Frederique Constant’s pride and joy—the open-heart display that they practically pioneered back in the day. Even Niels Eggerding, the brand’s managing director says that this series is like the brand’s poster child. The movement within is the Frederique Constant manufacture calibre FC-930-3, offering a power reserve of 38 hours. Outside the open-worked part of the display is a very classic dial with two chapter rings framing the sleek Roman numeral hours, which are complemented by black hands that are also extremely traditional in appearance. This elegant new addition to the Heart Beat series comes in steel or in 18-karat rose gold—limited in number to 930 and 93 pieces respectively.
H. Moser & Cie.
Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack
Moser’s latest collection—of integrated sport watches—now has a gold watch, with a very deep Vantablack dial. Not a colour but a material, Vantablack absorbs more light than practically anything else in existence. To really show how deep the black can get, the brand showcased a concept watch completely coated with Vantablack, which was practically invisible when seen against a Vantablack background. The dial on this Streamliner has an open-worked tourbillon cage at six o’clock, while the hands and markers around it are golden. With thick globolight on the hands, the luminescence really stands out against the black. Housed within the 40mm rose gold case is the automatic calibre HMC 403, which can store a huge power reserve of 72 hours. The bracelet has all the streamlined goodness with the same bevelling and polishing that previous editions had, but it’s richer in appearance here, owing to the gold.
Jacob & Co.
Astronomia Solar Bitcoin
The latest Astronomia is a tribute to Blockchain, cryptocurrency and Bitcoin—one of the few initial cryptos to start a whole new universe of transactions. With the vertical flying tourbillon and the timekeeping dial rotating around the watch, as it usually is in the Astronomia watches, the moving parts in this one also include a golden Bitcoin symbol, a rocket-ship, and depictions of the Earth, the Moon and the sun. The latter two are each realised in a Jacob-cut diamond and citrine, respectively. All this runs on the JCAM19 48-hour manual-winding calibre. Sized at 44mm, the DLC-treated titanium watch is largely in black and gold and features a few crypto-related keywords on the base of the display. Connecting the watch to the universe that inspires its theme is the transaction itself for the purchase of the 25 pieces of this edition. Payment can be made in a cryptocurrency chosen by the buyer.
Jacob & Co.
Epic X
This new sleeker version of Jacob & Co’s otherwise skeletonised watch (the time-only edition) retains the distinguishable appearance of the ‘X’ formation of the lugs joining the case, which has been redesigned ever so slightly for this rendition. To retain the essence of the collection, the brand have kept the movement open-worked, even as the transparency has been reduced. One of the few watches from the brand to be made in steel, this one has a version fully in black too. However, there is also a rose gold version of this 44mm timepiece, which comes with a bracelet. All versions are powered by the JCAM45 manual-winding calibre that can run autonomously for up to 48 hours.
Louis Erard
Le Régulateur ‘Louis Erard X Label Noir’
In the spirit of showcasing design excellence through collaborative editions, Louis Erard have unveiled their latest in a series of ‘collabs’—this one with design studio Label Noir. The sandblasted steel of the 42mm watch has a black PVD treatment, which presents a noir look, mirrored on the strap and dial. The most striking thing about this watch are the green accents seen across—from the minute markers and the seconds hand to the caseback view and stitching on the black nylon strap. It’s all quite stunning actually, when seen up close. The combination of green and black itself is one that is not so common, but makes so much sense. With an automatic movement within, this watch can run for up to 38 hours autonomously.
Maurice Lacroix
Pontos Chronograph
The Pontos Chronograph has been given a makeover by Maurice Lacroix this year. A classic lifestyle-sport watch in steel, this one exudes nuanced charm, with its very original appearance and design details that work beautifully together. The ceramic bezel, with its tachymeter scale, for instance, makes an impact, since it isn’t really an insert as much as it is overlaid. The dial highlights the two chronograph sub-dials, which gives it a vertical bicompax appearance. In blue and black-and-white colourways, this new edition comes with either a steel bracelet or a nylon strap. The grey strap on the black-and-white version stands out for its sophisticated quality. Housed in the 43mm case is the ML112 automatic calibre.
Maurice Lacroix
Pontos Day Date
With an edgier design, this Pontos is certainly more avant-garde than the chronograph. It is presented in a palette of khaki and black, with the nylon strap complementing the khanki dial that is housed within a 41mm black DLC-treated steel case. The khaki green itself is so dark that the watch almost has a monochromatic look. A very urban-chic timepiece, this Pontos offers three-hand timekeeping and day and date displays—at 12 and six o’clock. These features run on the automatic calibre ML143.
Oris
Aquis Date 36.5mm
The smaller Aquis Date now comes with three new mother-of-pearl dials—in blush pink, Aegean blue and seafoam green. These pastel hues are like a breath of fresh air, heightened in terms of visual appeal owing to the iridescence of mother-of-pearl. The colours complement the steel exterior and make for a lovely addition to the bestselling collection from Oris. This edition does not feature Oris’s calibre 400. As informed to us by Rolf Studer, co-CEO, this is owing to an effort by the brand to ensure that the audience for a more accessible range does not get ignored, even while Oris continue to make strides with their mechanical watchmaking. The mechanical calibre in this one offers a power reserve of 38 hours.
Oris
Diver’s Sixty-Five Calibre 400
At first glance, the new Diver’s Sixty-Five looks like a different watch altogether, but with hints of familiarity. However, the truth is that the design itself has barely changed as compared with previous editions. It’s got the same robust dive-watch quality, with the large luminescent indices, a domed glass in sapphire crystal and so on. What has changed in this version though is the bezel. Instead of a conventional 60-minute dive-timer, unidirectional-rotating bezel, this one comes with a 12-hour, bidirectional bezel that can offer a GMT function. With this more practical day-to-day feature, this Oris lives up to the brand’s DNA of only creating watches that make practical sense, even more than before. Adding to the practical aspect is the five-day automatic calibre 400 that runs this edition. Oris’s ‘new standard’ with advanced anti-magnetism, and offering a 10-year warranty is presented for the first time in the Diver’s Sixty-Five. A very familiar, yet fresh-looking timepiece, this one’s 40mm steel case comes affixed to a strap in leather or steel.
Urwerk
UR-100 Ultraviolet
The latest Satellite watch from Urwerk comes with such depth in colour that is hard to capture in a picture. The matt finish of the violet DLC-treated titanium is richer in appearance owing to the shot-blasting of the lightweight metal. On the inside you see a more vivid shade of violet on the moving display, as well as the caseback that offers a brilliant view of the movement—with its gorgeous circular graining and other finishing. The violet brings out the detailing on the movement even more. Urwerk’s signature display with satellite hours, and the indication of the Earth’s rotational and orbital distances, is powered by their automatic calibre UR 12.02, which offers a 48-hour power reserve. All the ‘ultraviolet’ goodness of this timepiece is complemented beautifully by a rubber strap in white. Somehow, black just would not have seemed right with this watch.
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Angelus Chronodate
0.CDZF.U01A.K009H
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Angelus Chronodate
0.CDYF.W01A.K009B
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Angelus Chronodate
0CDZE.U02A
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BVLGARI Octo
103667
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BVLGARI Serpenti
103704
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BVLGARI Serpenti
103706
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Corum Bubble
082.320.98/0601 AI10
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Corum Bubble
082.320.98/0601 SX01
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Czapek Quai Des Bergues
1245
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Doxa DOXA Army
785.60.031.26
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Doxa DOXA Army
785.10.031.10
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Frederique Constant Classics
FC-200MPW2AC6B
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Frederique Constant Classics
FC-200MPW2AC2D6
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Frederique Constant Classics
FC-200MPW2ACD6
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Frederique Constant Manufacture
FC-930EM3H9
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Frederique Constant Manufacture
FC-930EM3H6
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H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner
6804-0400
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Jacob & Co. Astronomia
AS310.21.AB.AA.A
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Jacob & Co. Epic X
EX120.11.AB.AB.ABRUA
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Jacob & Co. Epic X
EX120.43.AB.AB.A40AA
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Louis Erard Excellence
85237NN57.BAT02
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Maurice Lacroix Pontos
PT6038-SSL24-430-4
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Maurice Lacroix Pontos
PT6038-SSL24-130-2
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Maurice Lacroix Pontos
PT6038-SSL22-130-1
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Maurice Lacroix Pontos
PT6358-DLB04-630-5
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Oris Aquis
01 733 7770 4155-07 8 18 05P
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Oris Aquis
01 733 7770 4157-07 8 18 05P
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Oris Aquis
01 733 7770 4158-07 8 18 05P
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Oris Divers
01 400 7772 4054-07 8 20 18
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Oris Divers
01 400 7772 4054-07 5 20 82
