ReviewCarl F. Bucherer Introduce Subtle New Hues In Their Manero Peripheral Collection
Independent Swiss watchmakers Carl F. Bucherer, credited for helping make peripheral rotors mainstream in the watch industry, release six new colours ‘inspired by nature’ to their Manero Peripheral line—salmon, brown, blue, green, silver-white and black—with contrasting sub-dials
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A century and thirty-five years old this year, yet Lucerne-based independent watchmakers Carl F. Bucherer are just as modern in their approach to watchmaking today as when they created their first wristwatches at the end of the 19th century, or when they created their first chronographs and world timers in the 1940s and 50s, or when they introduced the peripheral rotor into their watches in 2009, setting an accelerative trend in the industry. This year, Carl F. Bucherer add a bit of that colourful spark to their popular Manero Peripheral timepieces, proving, once again that they’ve identified the need of the hour, injecting subtle hues, and a bit of playfulness with practical and convenient straps for even their dressy watches. Their new colours—blue, salmon, olive green and brown, as well as their classic silver-white and black—along with hybrid textured rubber straps, are ready to take on challenges posed by 2023 and beyond, all still powered by their ultra-efficient peripheral rotor winding the timepieces.
The Manero Peripheral’s Peripheral Vision
Founded in 1888, and still owned and operated by the founding family today, Carl F. Bucherer are deeply committed to technical advancement in the world of horology. In 2008, they created the CFB A1000 calibre with a peripheral rotor, and released the Patravi EvoTec in 2009, housing this calibre. Instead of being mounted centrally on top of the movement, the peripheral winding rotor is a bi-directional half-ring that revolves around the movement—rather, the periphery—winding the mainspring with every move. Unlike earlier designs by other watchmakers, Carl F. Bucherer’s version of the peripheral rotor is driven by ceramic ball bearings, which needed no lubrication, and the oscillating annular segment is made from tungsten, thus improving the overall efficiency of the movement. Besides, the peripheral rotor makes the movement much thinner, and also offers an unobstructed view of the bridges, plates and jewels that are so admired today.
Naturally, perfecting something this technically advanced takes time, and it took the maison eight years to release their calibre CFB A2000—an upgrade from the CFB A1000. In July 2016, Carl F. Bucherer introduced the even more evolved CFB A2050 calibre, housed in their Manero Peripheral, a dressy 40.6mm timepiece with hours and minutes, a date window at three o’clock, and a sub-dial at six o’clock housing the small seconds. The highlight of this watch was its COSC accreditation—the certificate of precision awarded by the independent Swiss body Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres to only about 15 percent of Swiss chronometer exports. The Manero Peripheral timepiece went on to become a much-loved and well-recognised icon by Carl F. Bucherer, owning the boardroom with as much flair as it did the ballroom.
Manero Peripheral In Hues That Impress
Powered by the COSC-certified manufacture movement, the CFB A2050, this year’s updates to the Manero Peripheral line have purely cosmetic changes. Housing the movement is a comfortable 40.6mm stainless steel case with a slim height of only 11.2mm, with brushed and polished surfaces, barely-there guards protecting the pull-out crown, and sapphire crystal for the glass and the exhibition caseback.
With dials in stunning new hues ‘inspired by nature’, and with contrasting black sub-dials, the new Manero Peripheral is a forward-looking timepiece that inspires the wearer to take on any adventure with a streak of colour and positivity. The dials have circular-brushed finishing in blue, salmon, brown, and green, and the classics—black and silver-white. Rhodium-plated wedge indexes punctuated by a minimal black minute track, and rhodium-plated wedge hands are offset by white numerals and markers on the black sub-dial. The white date numeral against black in a window at three o’clock highlights these contrasts. Then there are the two classic dials in black and silver-white, with stunning rose gold-plated wedge indexes and hands, and contrasting sub-dials in silver-white and black, respectively.
The Future-Ready Manero Peripheral
Black, ‘groove’-textured, hybrid rubber straps highlight the modernity of the watch, for the Manero Peripheral definitely looks younger and readier for adventure with these ‘quick release’-equipped, easily-interchangeable rubber straps, featuring with the brand’s stainless steel pin-lock folding clasp. The clean black of the strap beautifully brings out the muted, yet distinct, hues of the dials.
Carl F. Bucherer may be 135 years old, but they aren’t impervious to change, as they prove time and again with their new technology within and the design and finishing of their timepieces. While watch brands adding that zing to dials is not necessarily a new trend, Carl F. Bucherer themselves are no stranger to colour either. However, subtle hues in a fabulously minimal finish, the ergonomics of the well-sized timepiece, and, of course, the stunning peripheral rotor that makes this possible, make the new Manero Peripherals statements in themselves.
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