ReviewIntroducing Carl F. Bucherer’s Capsule Collection—A Compilation Of Their Greatest Hits In Black
To mark 135 years of their illustrious history with timekeeping, Carl F. Bucherer release the Capsule Collection, featuring—among other greats—the brand’s most popular Manero Flyback Chronograph, and the Heritage BiCompax Annual Chronograph, both dressed in matt black
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An artist’s ‘essentials’ or ‘best of’ album, with all—or most of—their greatest music, often garners more attention than their other albums, which feature just a few chart-topping songs in each. And much like a musician’s greatest music, the Carl F. Bucherer Capsule Collection is the 135-year-old Swiss watchmaker’s compilation of greatest timepieces. The brand turn 135 years ‘young’ in 2023, and to celebrate this milestone, they released the Capsule Collection. A compilation of five of Carl F. Bucherer’s most popular hits—reimagined in a timeless matt black—the Capsule Collection not only pays tribute to their long and illustrious history but also paves the way forward for the brand, with a contemporary design language that has a universal appeal. Among these are two of the brand’s most popular watches, the Manero Flyback Chronograph and their Heritage BiCompax Annual Black Chronograph, both in DLC-coated stainless steel with a gorgeous, deep black, matt, lacquered surface.
Capsule Collection Manero Flyback Black Chronograph
The Lucerne-based watchmakers have been creating chronographs since 1948, and high-precision certified chronometers since 1968. In 2016, they released their Manero Flyback, with a flyback chronograph controlled by a pump pusher, allowing multiple time intervals to be measured in quick succession. This fantastic function was presented on a traditional, dressy-looking timepiece, and instantly made an impact in the watchmaking world, becoming, arguably, one of the brand’s most popular watches. Recently, they reimagined this 43mm timepiece in a 40mm case, adding the colours of Switzerland to their watches.
The Capsule Collection’s Manero Flyback Black Chronograph returns in their classic 43mm size in matt black. The brand’s automatic calibre CFB 1970 runs the flyback chronograph, with minutes and seconds in recessed counters, in a bicompax layout, as well as the timekeeping and date, while a tachymeter scale is also seen.
Rhodium-plated dauphine hands and indexes offset deep black canvas, adding that dressy vibe that appeals to people of all generations. While Carl F. Bucherer have retained the essence of their popular timepiece, this all-black version with rhodium-plated and white highlights takes the timepiece somewhat into the future. The exhibition caseback—with a view of the movement against the black of the case—enhances the futuristic feel of the timepiece. A ‘quick-release’ black hybrid-rubber strap with a ‘pyramid’ texture completes the look.
Capsule Collection Heritage BiCompax Annual Black
The second stainless steel watch with a DLC treatment and matt black lacquering is the 41mm Heritage BiCompax Annual Black Choronograph. First released in 2019, the watch took its design cues from the brand’s first bicompax chronographs in the 1950s and 60s. The Capsule Collection edition retains the essence of the 2019 version in terms of dial layout and fonts. However, the new monochromatic look is a big design win for the overall aesthetic. Cleaner than earlier editions, all the information—timekeeping, tachymeter, chronograph recorders, big date and month—looks crisp, clear and easy to read. Vintage-inspired Arabic numerals, syringe hands, concentric radial graining on the sub-dials, and a tachymeter scale, with a distinctly different serif font, aid legibility on this black beauty. All this, together with DLC-treated and lacquered crown and chronograph pushers give the timepiece a dressy, yet sporty vibe.
Powering the Heritage Bicompax Annual Black Chronograph is the brand’s automatic calibre CFB 1972, with timekeeping, chronograph recorders and an annual calendar function, which accounts for months with 30 and 31 days. The only time the wearer needs to set the date is once a year, at the end of February.
The Capsule Collection’s Carbon Cases
The other three timepieces in Carl F. Bucherer’s Capsule Collection are limited editions. Of these, limited to only 30 pieces is the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black, with the brand’s floating tourbillon mounted peripherally at 12 o’clock. In a 43mm forged carbon case, within a titanium container is the in-house calibre CFB T3000, with a COSC-certified chronometer movement.
The Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black, at 41.6mm, is also housed in a forged carbon case with a titanium container, and limited to 88 pieces, and powered by the calibre CFB A2055, with a perpetual calendar and moon phase display, besides the timekeeping. The perpetual calendar needs no correction, even in a leap year—barring one minor tweak that’ll be required in the year 2100. It features four neatly laid out sub-dials, with the moon phase at six, the day of the week at nine, date at three, and month at 12 o’clock.
The third carbon timepiece in the Capsule Collection is the 188-piece limited edition Manero Peripheral BigDate Black. A well-balanced black matt dial has the big date window at 11 o’clock, a day-of-the-week indicator at nine, small seconds at six and a power reserve indicator at three o’clock. The conveniently-sized 41.6mm case houses the automatic calibre CFB A2055—a COSC-certified chronometer movement.
A Capsule Tribute To 13 Decades Of Watchmaking
All five watches in the Capsule Collection feature stunning complications dedicated to the brand’s historical achievements. However, it is in the execution—be it carbon cases or DLC-treated steel with lacquer, or the five distinctive hybrid rubber straps—that one gets a glimpse into the pioneering spirit of Carl F. Bucherer, the avant-garde watchmakers.
The brand’s chief technology officer Samir Merdanovic says, “Our positioning allows us to meet the needs and desires of the modern consumer around the world. In this context, we decided to refrain from launching timepieces for either men or women in a specific age bracket, but rather will continue launching watches that capture the zeitgeist of contemporary generations and reflect their appreciation of cool design, innovative mastery, and excellent craftsmanship.”
With the promise of more exceptional timepieces in the future, this 2023 Capsule Collection marks a milestone in the brand’s journey. Here’s looking forward to more of their ‘innovative mastery and excellent craftsmanship’.
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