ReviewDepth In Display And Power: The New And Updated Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton
With a tremendous eight-day power reserve, and a redesigned open-worked display—showcasing geometrical harmony and more accentuated details—the Octo Finissimo Skeleton is indeed the most ‘accomplished’ skeleton watch that Bulgari have created. Here’s a little more about this Finissimo novelty than is already evident owing to the transparency of the watch
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Everybody knows of the Octo Finissimo as the collection that breaks records. It’s been eight records in just over 10 years, to be more specific. Octo finissimo literally translates to ‘very fine eighth’ in Italian. The name itself is what best describes what this line is about—‘fine’ for its sleek profile, and ‘eight’ for its octagonal façade. The template may be best known for the records in slim watchmaking, with various movements and complications, but Bulgari are not just about the records that this collection can break for them. They have created several other versions of the Octo Finissimo that celebrate the lean finesse of this Octo line, as opposed to the far fuller Octo Roma. And the stripped-back approach to slimming things down is probably best represented by the skeleton editions within the series. The latest of these skeletons is the Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days.
While this is also available in the line’s signature titanium-encased monochromatic look—seen in all the record holders and breakers of the series—the gold edition just takes the look to another level. The contrast created between the golden exterior and indexes, and the black and grey of the inner layers, just adds tremendous visual depth to the display, making this slim skeleton watch even more spellbinding.
Depth In The Display Of The Finissimo Skeleton
“The design is far more geometrical, much sharper, and much more in line with the indexes,” states Jean-Christophe Babin, group CEO, Bulgari. “The bridges almost fuse with the indexes,” he adds, speaking to how the movement redesigning was very much in line with the layout of the markers and elements on the dial, so that there’s more symmetry and even transparency. The geometric personality of the line is accentuated with the new construction of the display. From the gold markers to the sand-blasted, matt, anthracite framework, there is contrast in texture as well, in addition to the contrast created between the hues in the palette of the display.
This is a result of a combination of smooth finishing, brushed detailing, and polished bevelling seen across the bridges and plates. It all adds richness and nuance to the visual appeal. A slight departure from the largely symmetrical face is the small seconds at 7:30, with a gauge-style power reserve indicator, which cleverly connects with the ‘BVLGARI’ emblem and the ‘eight days’ below it.
The Finissimo Skeleton’s Pursuit Of Power
The eight days is what actually led to the refined look of this piece. A pursuit of more power was what informed the new reimagining of the Finissimo Skeleton watches that came before it, Babin informs. “The Skeleton has been, for a few years already, a very strong-selling Finissimo. It had a power reserve of 52 hours, which is less for a manual-winding watch,” he explains. While 52 hours is pretty standard, for manual watches especially, it requires a very conscious and dedicated effort to wind one, when the power is low. So why not seek to increase the power reserve, so that one’s winding ritual can be even less frequent than weekly! At eight days, the power reserve of the new in-house, manual-winding calibre BVL 199—developed for this new generation of the Octo Finissimo Skeleton—is quite phenomenal for any watch, but particularly for a skeleton watch that bares it all. “As we sought to increase the power reserve—for which the movement had to be redesigned—we also decided to develop the new skeleton display,” Babin expounds. “The eight-day power reserve makes it possible to wear it as a daily watch. In that sense, it’s the most functional manual-winding watch that we’ve ever done.”
Finissimo For Function And Form
This is a solid example of form following function, but ironically, that’s not exactly the approach that the Italian casa of Swiss-made watches follow. The jewellery-making roots of the brands, and coming from the sensibility of Italian design especially, things work hand-in-hand for Bulgari. Form and function both have to be impeccable for them. “In terms of aesthetics, it’s the most accomplished skeleton we’ve every crafted,” proclaims Babin.
Even with the new aesthetical open-worked treatment and more power, the thickness of the case has not been compromised on. The new Finissimo Skeleton may not have technically ‘broken’ any record, but, at 5.9mm in thickness, it’s still a very sleek timepiece. Sized at 40mm in diameter, the case retains the geometrical splendour of the Octo line, with satin-finishing on the pink gold. Such details enhance the overall impact of the timepiece. With good looks on its side, the Finissimo Skeleton has also rightfully been called the ‘most functional manual-winding watch’ from the house of Bulgari.
With such new novelties, it’s very clear that the brand won’t rest on their laurels. Because fine watchmaking is not only about pushing the boundaries for breaking records and bragging rights. It’s about making fine timekeeping instruments that deliver with function and form, while carrying forward the identity of icons such as the Octo Finissimo, with finesse in its DNA.
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