SpotlightThe Finest Hour—Bulgari At The LVMH Watch Week 2021
The second edition of the LVMH Watch Week kicked off on January 25, and as expected, Bulgari’s fine watchmaking game was on point with spectacular novelties that included a new rendition of the iconic Serpenti and the snazzy Octo Finissimo in steel
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The watchmaking industry has always been a paradox. Steeped in tradition yet dynamic due to its ever-changing and evolving nature; it’s given its patrons many a startling technical wonder to choose from. However, one aspect—where the annual highlights or ‘novelties’ were revealed to an exhilarated crowd was always status quo for years. However, not any longer. The luxury watch fairs in Basel and Geneva, which once used to be bustling with activity seem to be a thing of the past. The upheavals started in 2018 when Swatch Group decided to withdraw 18 brands from Baselworld including Breguet, Blancpain, Jaquet Droz and Omega. What was once a hub for a thriving media presence and aggressive retailer networking, seemed to have run its course. French luxury maison Hermès, and Kering-owned Ulysse Nardin had already jumped ship to showcase their offerings at Watches & Wonders, which used to be known as SIHH. And the COVID-19 crisis last year, was the final nail in the coffin. In April, independents such as Patek Philippe, Chopard and Chanel also announced their exit from what once used to be the annual pilgrimage for watch lovers from all over the globe. The LVMH Group, which had already started 2020 on a high note with their independent Watch Week in Dubai in January had probably anticipated this situation.
Against All Odds
Well, no one could have predicted the pandemic, but from a business point of view, it made complete sense. And so, the three maisons—Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith decided to hold a second edition this year from January 25 to 29, albeit in a ‘phygital’ format. “This initiative is in continuation with the LVMH Watch Week held in Dubai, last year; and it is in line to maintain very strong visibility and desirability for our products in the watchmaking industry. We took on the war against COVID-19 with production of hand sanitisers for the Italian, British and Swiss governments with 8,00,000 bottles. We also raised money for funding research, especially for the Oxford/AstraZeneca vaccine and, we are hoping that 2021 will be better,” explained Bulgari Group’s CEO, Jean-Christophe Babin, who kicked off the digital press conference from Rome—the brand’s global headquarters. He also mentioned that Bulgari maintained a strong turnover despite the unprecedented conditions. “In terms of business, we suffered in the first half just like everyone since we had not been operating in full capacity. The second half was better with the reopening of markets and stores, and we have managed to do well. We have closed 2020 on a positive note considering 2019 was a record-breaking year for us. And we are hopeful that this year will be strong in terms of growth,” he added.
High Jewellery Meets Fine Watchmaking
Bulgari’s new watches resonate the creative spirit and expertise of the brand that are not only exceptional jewellers, but have also proved their mettle in the haute horlogerie sphere. Babin notes that the new creations express the maison’s Estetica della meccanica or ‘aesthetics of mechanics’. “Our unique spirit is anchored in jewellery savoir faire and craftsmanship with iconic and bold designs, fusing the Italian roots of our DNA with incomparable Swiss expertise.” Once again, the ladies’ offerings continued to bedazzle with the Serpenti Spiga and its undulating bracelets.
The three versions offer a different take on the iconic wrap-bracelet that has been given a more geometrical structure with a contemporary matelassé pattern in rose gold and white gold options. Bulgari also continue to expand their Lvcea portfolio with a unique tridimensional marquetry mother-of-pearl dial that has been crafted to reflect light from any angle, thereby enhancing its beauty. There’s also a fine display of their métiers d’art craftsmanship with three new Divas’ Dream timepieces—the Peacock Dischi, the Peacock Diamonds, and the Peacock Tourbillon Lumière. Inspired by the magnificent peacock; these ornate watches are exquisite works of art in the true sense. They are brought to life by intricate techniques such as marquetry, miniature painting and champlevé (a form of enamel work) that Bulgari have employed for over 130 years.
However, before you think men have been left out, here’s what’s in store. The record-breaking Octo Finissimo line is back with new solid stainless steel versions—an addition to last year’s Octo Finissimo S collection. It is available in a new monochrome edition. The line also extends its appeal with a satin-polished Chronograph GMT, water-resistant to 100m. And saving the best for last; a brand new minute repeater with three hammers and a tourbillon—the new Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon that redefines the traditional chiming watch to appeal to a newer generation with its contemporary aesthetic. The movement is equipped with two barrels. One ensures the functioning of the sound mechanism and winds automatically when the bell is triggered, while the other guarantees a power reserve of at least 75 hours. The power and clarity of the sound is a key point here, and the case has been hollowed out to propagate maximum sound when the gongs strike. The caseback, too, is hollowed out and revamped with a meticulously crafted titanium grid that protects this resonance zone and allows sound to be transmitted to the outside. La bellezza della meccanica as Bulgari puts it. We couldn’t agree more!
