SpotlightJewels Of Timekeeping: Introducing Bulgari’s Exquisite Mediterranea High-End Watch Collection
Inspired by the historical heritage of the Mediterranean civilisation, the new Bulgari Mediterranea high-jewellery timepieces are the hallmarks of exceptional Italian craftsmanship strengthened by Swiss fine watchmaking traditions
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While as fascinating as the world of haute horlogerie is; it can get equally overwhelming due to its technically-driven nature. And it becomes even more challenging when fine watchmaking is combined with the art of crafting high jewellery, though few maisons have mastered this realm and one name that instantly comes to mind is Bulgari. The Italian company is known for its dazzling high-jewellery pieces and have over the years, established themselves as serious watchmakers—in fact creating masterpieces such as the Octo line—that have broken world records. They have recently launched their new Mediterranea Collection—comprising high-jewelled watches and some outstanding high-jewellery pieces—inspired by the history, culture, and beauty of the ancient Mediterranean civilisation that fused the Eastern and Western influences to create a unique and exotic ethos of its own. We look at some of these exceptional timepieces classified under four broad pillars—which combine Italian creativity along with fine Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship.
Southern Radiance
The watches under this pillar are an ode to the exquisite underwater life found in the Mediterranean waters, executed in a bold and daring manner, in Bulgari’s signature style. And these are not just ordinary timekeeping jewels but are mechanical in nature, powered by Bulgari’s high horology calibres, featuring miniature dimensions that fit seamlessly within dainty frameworks without compromising on the functions and the technical aspects of timekeeping. The maison has used coloured gemstones along with precious metals such as white or red gold to create these stunning watches inspired by the brand’s Naturalia collection from the 1990s.
Giardino Marino Grande
Crafted in white gold, the Giardino Marino Grande secret watch required more than 3,900 hours to be completed, and features a combination of fishes, seashells, anemones set on tremblers, mobile corals, and decorated beads—all crafted from over 4,800 colourful precious stones and gems, carefully matched to obtain the vibrancy exuded by this piece. There’s a starfish with a central rubellite and a seashell paved with diamonds and Paraiba tourmalines—both detachable, and can be worn as earrings complementing the watch. There’s a sapphire-paved shell, which opens up revealing the dial of this timepiece, framed by a case that resembles a fish. It is powered by the Piccolissimo micro-mechanical movement—measuring 12mm in diameter, with a thickness of 2.50mm and a weight of just 1.30 grams—making it the smallest round mechanical calibre on the market currently.
Giardino Marino Piccolo
The dominant theme here is blue and green, which highlights the Giardino Marino Piccolo secret watch, featuring fishes, anemones, and seashells, recreated in a Southern Italy-inspired vibrant colour palette. The watch is adorned with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines, tanzanite, green tourmalines, tsavorites, topaz and peridots. There’s a central see-through topaz revealing the dial of the watch, powered by the Piccolissimo mechanical movement.
Divas’ Dream Acquarium
Bulgari have recreated a miniaturised living aquarium with the Divas’ Dream Acquarium watch crafted in white gold, featuring a cabochon-inspired dome. The dial is paved with tourmalines, sapphires, and diamonds to create fish motifs adorned with pear-shaped rubies and sapphires. It is presented on a flexible, white-gold bracelet, paved with Paraiba tourmalines, sapphires and diamonds, while the caseback is hand engraved with a dedicated marine drawing.
Octo Roma Mediterranea Secret Watch
The Octo Roma Mediterranea secret watch exudes undisputed creativity and unparalleled craftsmanship, and is brought to life by an octopus motif, made entirely with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines that give the impression of the creature stepping back, while its tentacles seem emerging from the medallion. Crafted in a 44mm rose-gold case set with diamonds and a blue alligator strap, the watch reveals an ultra-thin manual movement, BVL 268 SK calibre with a flying tourbillon mechanism.
Roman Splendor
This range celebrates the timelessness of Greek and Roman culture by paying tribute to perhaps the most notable icons of all times: Cleopatra, Queen of Egypt, and the First Emperor of Rome Augusto Ottaviano. For this, Bulgari have used the ancient art of cameo carving, which dates back to the 5th century BC, and have collaborated with renowned Torre del Greco-based artisans.
Cameo Imperiale Necklace Secret Watch
Here, Cleopatra’s profile appears as a cameo on the pendant of the Cameo Imperiale secret watch necklace, crafted entirely in rose gold, suspended by a rose-gold chain—all featuring diamonds and brilliant-cut rubies. The watch case is also decorated with sapphires, while diamonds are snow-set around the intricate tourbillon lumière manual-winding mechanical movement, BVL 208 in gold with a power reserve of 64 hours. This open-worked mechanism is a hallmark of watchmaking art, with all components decorated and finished by hand. Its intricate design allows light to shine through, creating a mesmerising effect that highlights the intricate details of the watch’s inner workings.
Octo Roma Secret Watch Cameo Imperiale
There’s also the unique Octo Roma Secret Watch Cameo Imperiale—which combines exquisite high-jewellery craftsmanship with Swiss watchmaking precision. Crafted in a 44mm solid platinum case, it features a cap that protects the dial and is adorned with the profile of the Roman emperor, made in cameo and set with diamonds and lapis lazuli. It is decorated entirely with diamonds and on opening the cap, it reveals an ultra-thin manual winding mechanical movement, BVL 268 SK calibre with a flying tourbillon, which is an open-worked version of the brand’s record-breaking tourbillon movement. With a thickness of just under 2mm, it features a sleek and refined profile, and supplies the watch with a 52-hour power reserve.
Serpenti 75
One of the most iconic designs at Bulgari, the Serpenti stands out with its unique design codes while paying homage to the enigmatic snake—a powerful symbol among different Mediterranean cultures—from Mesopotamia and Egypt to Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome. And this year, as it celebrates the 75th anniversary since its first appearance in the Roman house’s jewellery collections; it’s no surprise that two high-end renditions have found a place in the Mediterranea collection.
Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini
Inspired by the yellow-gold-and-diamond version from 1955, the new Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini secret watch is crafted entirely in white gold and also showcases Bulgari’s mastery of high-jewellery craftsmanship as it features emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines, and diamonds—fully set on the timepiece in an ingenious manner using tremblers, which guarantee dynamic movement for this patented bracelet design. The snake head is decorated with round brilliant-cut diamonds and two pear-shaped emerald eyes. It is powered by the Piccolissimo movement with a 30-hour energy reserve—introduced for the first time in a Pallini watch, and the proportions were significantly reduced to obtain an elegant aesthetic balance and impeccable fit.
Serpenti Misteriosi Dragone
The Serpenti Misteriosi Dragone secret watch features a white-gold dragon head covered with diamonds and two pear-shaped emerald eyes. Inspired by the Serpenti piece worn by the late legendary actor Elizabeth Taylor, when she essayed the role of Queen Cleopatra in the 1963 Academy Award-winning drama; the new version features a three-twirl white-gold bracelet, enriched with round brilliant-cut diamonds and emeralds, and offers an incomparable comfortable fit. This whimsical watch also allows the wearer to open the snake head by pressing the tiny tongue to reveal the dial, which can easily be turned, thereby allowing one to wear it either on the left or right wrist. This is also driven by the Piccolissimo movement, which keeps the watch functioning for at least 30 hours.
East Meets West
Highlighting the Italian maison’s eclectic spirit embodied by this line, that’s shaped by Western and Eastern influences; the East Meets West range aptly represents the best of both worlds when it comes to high-jewellery supremacy.
Oriental Buds Secret Watch
Presented with a matching necklace, the Oriental Buds secret watch evokes a lush exotic garden—depicting perfect geometric symmetry—inspired by Byzantine architecture. The artisans at Bulgari, painstakingly worked on this piece for 900 hours, putting together a stunning combination of diamonds, tourmalines, emeralds, sapphires, and beads to create this dazzling work of art for the wrist. It stands out for a resplendent Colombian cushion-cut emerald, nested right at the centre, on a pavé-diamond setting of Indian Mughal-inspired motifs. And on pushing this central emerald, the flower opens up, revealing a sparkling diamond-dripping dial, which complements the overall bejewelled look of this ornate timekeeper.
